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Josh Waddi

KR - Temp & Idle

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Hi People

 

I had a post going about current issues with the C. Managed to get a few things cleared up. But im still having issues with temp and idle. Temp 1st then. My gauge shows no higher than 75 - 80 degree, ive searched where the senders are for these but the explinations baffle me, has anyone got a diagram/picture of the senders so i can check them, and should they all be earthed? if so all in the same place?

 

2nd is the Idle. When i start in the morn it fails to idle, i can go few hundred yards, turn it off, start it again, the revs climb to 3K then drop back down to 1.5K. I wouldnt imagine there is an air leak as it wouldnt idle at all if there was. Anyone experienced this or have the know how?

 

Thanks

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all the senders earth through the head

if you post up pics of your bay and al lthe senders then we can tell you if it looks right

I reckon your idle control unit isn't being switched on, this is triggered by the switch under the throttle body, you need to make sure that is closing and making a circuit when you release the throttle cable to rest/idle position

of course your idle valve may be contributing to the problem

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all the senders earth through the head

if you post up pics of your bay and al lthe senders then we can tell you if it looks right

I reckon your idle control unit isn't being switched on, this is triggered by the switch under the throttle body, you need to make sure that is closing and making a circuit when you release the throttle cable to rest/idle position

of course your idle valve may be contributing to the problem

 

Thanks David

 

I will get a pic of the bay up tomorrow. As for the microswitch when i maually use the throttebody and return it to the switch i still get the same problems. The ISV is working as ive just replaced the last one whilst trying to find out these problems. It vibrates ect when the ignition is on. Im hpoing the idle issue is related to the temp issue. Also i had a new distributor fitted and the engine CO setup ect a week or so ago and it helped ever so slightly in a sense of when its cutting out somtimes it idles and struggles a lot at 500rmp instead of just dying on me. Cant afford to take it to a garage again so any ideas ect would be very gratefull

 

Thanks

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I can't remember if you've asked about this before, but if you disconnect the elec plug under the throttle body to the idle circuit switch you can then check the little switch is actually making/breaking when you put the throttle to the rest position.

You could also try isolating some of the vacuum pipes from their various units and blocking off to the manifold, just to doubly check nothing is leaking air in.

there's a one way valve to the brake servo too I think, from the pipe at the back right of the inlet manifold which you can check is operating just by removing and sucking from each end :)

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Hi,

 

Not managed to get pics of the bay up yet as my laptop is an :epicfail: Ive managed to have a play around with the throttle, cable, screw and managed to get a good idle by opening the screw on the body. This was fine until the engine was switched off and on and it idled at 3K - 4K. The lever is not returning to the switch and im not sure the switch is doing its job either.

 

Also i noticed a hole in a pipe, its under the one that comes off the top of the air box. Kind if fully circular and dissapears somewhere below, quite a big pipe too. Would this have an effect on the idle? Im going to replace the switch but how do i get the lever to return? ive moved the switch as close as possible and moved the clip on the cable to release a little tension but still no luck.

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sounds like you might have a spring gone in the throttle return mechanism and/or a worn throttle cable, the latter should be lovely and smooth when pulled out and puished in if yoiu release the cable from the throttle body and move it by hand. (there's a KR throttle body for sale on the forum BTW)

 

I think the connection under the air inlet pipe you are referring to is the overrun cut off valve, there should be a unit underneath with an electrical connection and a vacuum pipe running to it, it connects to the underside of the main inlet pipe with a big round, but short rubber pipe, about 2-3cm diameter and only a couple of cm long, but if that was not connected at all then you'd have so much unmetered air going into the inlet it would never idle, same happens if you remove the crank breather pipe from the rhs of the airbox.

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Hello,

 

I will change the TB and take it from there. Hoping not having to go any further. Need it to run right for Alton Towers in 2 weeks.

 

Regarding the "holy" pipe, i dont think its the one you have described. From memory it looks like it takes an air feed from the bottom of the airbox and runs in the same direction as the main ones you can see leading to the TB. Looks kinda like a smaller version of an extractor you would have on the back of your tumble dryer or Boiler. Lokks like it had metal coils in it. Not sure if this would have any effect on the running.

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ah right, that's just the warm air pickup to the air box for very cold days, will run fine without that even being there.

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Got an update now. Ive replaced the old TB including microswitch and theres a slight difference. It still over revvs and idles around 1.5K but not as aggressive as before. i think the accelerator cable is a bit shoddy too so i will get round to replacing this.

 

Failing that ive still the issue of it not wanting to idle at all until its warm and my temp gauge only hitting 75 when the oil is at 100.

 

Anymore ideas please

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Okay, so ive managed to change my cable and its kind of stopped the over reving at idle. its still does it but only at startup then dies down. Back to the issue of the themostat, can you advise where it is so i can replace this too. Thanks

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