wormy 0 Posted November 17, 2010 For a while I've been having some random minor crunching when gearing, but yesterday I started to have problems engaging gears (the lever had to be really forced into gear). Sometimes it's "fine", other times it's hard to get into gears and crunches. (The circlip is in place before anyone asks..) But today while cruising in 5th at approx 3000rpm, and flooring it, the clutch slips - while still most of the time being hard to get into gear. The slipping slowly got progressively worse as I drove. I checked earlier today before I started to drive, and I hadn't lost any brake fluid - have yet to check now after I've parked it though. The clutch is a LuK uprated g60 clutch (vr6?), that was changed when I built new engine 10-15k kilometers ago.. The engine is very torquey and powerful, but doubt I've managed to kill a clutch already... As far as I know, the slave and master are both the original ones, and the car has done 267000km's. Might be time to change them, but wondered if anyone got any ideas before I decide to take off the gearbox or do something else "drastic"? :( Just seems odd to me that it both is hard to engage gears / crunches AND slips a bit. The flywheel seal MIGHT be leaking even though it was new 10-15000km's ago, but hope not.. Ideas? :help: Sorry that I haven't checked more yet, but there's snow outside and it's cold and dark.. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted November 21, 2010 Anyone? Doesn't seem like there's any leaks onto the clutch disc. But the clutch doesn't free itself from the flywheel when trying to change gear, and it doesn't stick completly to the flywheel when driving either.. Seems that somewhere, something's sticking.. Plan is to remove the gearbox, change both the slave/master cylinder AND the coily-hose thingie. And order a new clutch disc + bolts incase the clutch has worn while slipping.. Any comments or anything? :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 21, 2010 I'd do the hydraulic side of things first mate, that way you don't need to remove the box. Does the bite point appear to change? - this points to a hydraulic issue If you do remove the box then I would also replace the clutch fork and also the sleeve for the release bearing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted November 21, 2010 Cheers, the bite remains more or less the same - relatively close to the floor.. I guess I could try to replace the hydraulics first, but the master cylinder looks a bit hard to replace if I don't remove it.. The car's LHD.. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 21, 2010 Try a slave first mate... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
