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owen g60

G60 running issues

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Hi guys,

 

I have just replaced the temp sensor (blue one) after having cold idle issues... now after running for about 20 mins the engine will cut out and not restart for about an hour.

 

Once it has cut out the engine will turn.. if put in gear and turned the car will move forward.

 

Temperature wise the car is getting no hotter than usual... about 95-102 degrees according to the MFA.

 

 

Any suggestions

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is the engine stalling when fan comes on or does it sound like its running out of fuel?

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it is an instant cut out... no stuttering like it is fuel (fuel pump changed last week due to a perished o ring)

 

i am suspecting it to be a hall sender issue as when it is let to cool for an hour or so it will then restart... but has started to do it since the temp sensor was changed.

 

---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

 

it may well be when the fan comes on as it has been when slowing down that i have cut out and not been able to restart

 

---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 AM ----------

 

it may well be when the fan comes on as it has been when slowing down that i have cut out and not been able to restart

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it might be the idle screw is set bit too low or o-ring perished that when the fan kicks in the engine will stall. Is the isv clean?give it bit of a clean might help.

 

If it stalls again,disconnect the connector for the injector rail,turn the engine over for a second or two.reconnect the injector rail.then try start

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DONT!!!!!! whatever you do dont unplug the Isv while engine is running.It burns out the Isv driver in the ecu and it'll never idle right again

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It stopped running again before I got round to it.

 

It's a non runner at the moment no spark from the plugs. Have cleaned the distributor cap and rotor arm.

Voltage pulses to coil when turned over.

 

Am suspecting hall sensor, gonna let garage look at it as I'm lost

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if the voltage pulses then the hall sender should be working.You can confirm this.

 

To test hall sender gently remove rubber cover on the connector to the dizzy to expose terminals but leave connector connected.put a LED across the center and outside wire.The LED will flicker when you turn engine over.If it doesnt your hall sender is busted.You can use this to test almost any dizzy fitted with hall sender

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latest news from the garage...

 

Hall sensor has input and output from ecu.

 

ignition circuit ok

 

ecu earth ok

 

ecu relay ok

 

fuse 15 (ISV, Deceleration fuel cut off, electronic ignition ok)

 

still looking but as yet no spark

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right buddy,check the black/red wire to the coil,its the trigger wire for the coil to discharge

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havent got the car in front of me right now...

 

if i remember correctly i have a green wire going to -ve on coil and a black wire going to +ve... was about 12V when i checked it... also appeared to drop to 10v whan cranked

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voltage will drop as battery uses all its power for turning starter. There should be three wires going to the coil-as you said black wire +ve,Green wire -ve, and trigger wire in the middle

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defo no trigger wire... only 2 terminals on the coil.... 3 pin one that the black goes to... 2 pin one that the green goes to... and output to the distributor

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aaaahhhh... now i see.your coil is cubed shaped am i correct? mines the older round can shaped one.No prob thought.theyre pretty much the same anyway

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ok just to confirm green+ black,red are are part of the same terminal,noticed when i took the king lead off

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two seconds ill find out

 

---------- Post added at 07:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

 

bingo found it,your electrics are same as 1990 model.

 

The Red/black goes back to the fusebox,connection G1 pin 12.

 

---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

 

Funny enough,the digifant relay uses that same track to power the digi unit......

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ah ok digifant powered fine.... will suggest that the guy looks doen the back of the engine for a red/black wire with crimp possibly still attached.

 

would explain why the problem was intermittent... probably as the crimp worked its way out of the housing

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ill be on tomorrow,give me a shout if you need more help or get it sorted. its 22:05 here in germany and have to be up early at 6am.

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What engine code did you get that from??

I haven't got the bentley diagram to hand at the moment but a PG engine doesn't need the trigger wire

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The engine code is PG.Mines a 1990,an earlier corrado so wiring is a little bit different.

 

just had a look,1991-1992 wiring changed and on the diagram only has two wires,digifant green to terminal 1 and black to terminal 15

Have you checked the coil itself? pull king-lead off dizzy,get a spare sparkplug,earth it to the engine and check for spark when cranking

 

on that topic,is the engine earth good? if its busted it might be causing your probs with weak spark

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