Tips on removing the rear axle on VR6 please + Brake fluid change Q

[VWVW 1]

Hi Peeps

 

Could anyone offer some advice as to how to remove the rear axle on a Corrado VR6

 

1. Does any of the hard brake lines need to be cut first ? etc

 

cheers

[Ralphead 0]

You shouldn't have to touch any hard lines. There are two very short flexible hoses hidden up just infront of the beam to undo. My car dosen't have ABS but I assume yours does? If so ask someone who knows more than me about this, but I believe getting air in the lines is a nightmare to sort out.

 

The axles are surprisingly heavy, especially if you're on your own using just axle stands and jacks.. Make sure you have plenty of support for when you unbolt it.

[Laser Mark 0]

I've done this to my 16v and a mates VR6.

 

There are 2 flexi line for the brake lines to the rear beam. I have seen people use mole grips to pinch the flexi to stop air getting into the lines, not sure how good this is for the lines to be honest. It may also be handy to get a proper brake pipe spanner to help undo the fittings as they are easy to round off.

 

The best advice is to get the car up in the air on axle stands, disconnect the brake lines to the beam and undo the bolt at the bottom on the rear shock. This should allow the beam to swing down, and should give you better access to the 6 bolts which mount the beam to the car.

 

When you come to drop the rear beam out, put a trolley jack in the centre of the beam and take some of the weight, undo your bolts and lower it down, it should just slide out. If you are doing it on your own and you have left the brakes, calipers, stub axle etc.. on then it will be bloody heavy! Even without all that stuff on, it still weighs a bit.

 

Hope this helps

 

Mark

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48465[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48466[/ATTACH]

 

The hard lines meet the flexi's at these brackets, the pic's show the beam upside down.

 

I can't remember if the VR6 had a compensator (or if its just the 16/8v's) located on the passenger side, that's bolted to an arm which runs of the rear beam and is a B*tch to undo, plus makes getting the beam out interesting.

Edited August 9, 2011 by Laser Mark
Adding pictures

[aide 0]

yep the vr's have a compensator and the securing bolts are usually seized into the unit too, i had to grind mine off.

 

if you have lowered suspension you may also need to disconnect and lower the rear strut so you can remove the strut/ beam connecting bolt on the drivers side, the tank can get in the way otherwise.

 

as above, hard/ flexi brake unions are often seized, and turning them with little care can cause the hard line to rotate and split.

 

oh, and look at the wiki guide, and as for most jobs on these cars - plan for the worst!

[Critical_Mass 10]

Dont use mole grips get some mini plastic clamps. BUt should work.

[Laser Mark 0]

Good point about the lowered suspension, removing the back box for the exhaust makes the job lots easier.

 

Another good point is to take photos, lots of photos, if you've got to take it apart its always handy to have a reference when it comes to putting it back together.

[VWVW 1]

Cheers chaps for the response...sounds like its gonna be a bit of a challenge. Maybe its better for me to source a second hand rear beam and build it up with all new components before taking it to a garage to fit it in for me ?

 

I ve already got myself a full set of brake hard lines and full set of goodrich flexi hoses.

 

If I was going to replace all these I guess the brake system will have to be bled completely dry of brake fluid and fresh brake fluid will be added to the system??? Is this the way to do it or do you retain the old fluid as much as you can and flush out with the new brake fluid to stop introduction of air ???

Edited August 9, 2011 by VWVW

[aide 0]

depends on colour of it and age, whether you top up or refresh, get an eazibleed kit which uses the spare tyre to pressurise the system. much easier to bleed using these.