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laurielaeks

Setting the ignition timing/possible boost problems/Tappets

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Hi there, after having problems with my corrado feeling hesitant while cold or under load ive started to do some work on my engine, first thing was replace the tappets as the noise was unpleasant, then replace timing belt and set up the timing and ignition timing.

 

Everything plumbed back up and the tappet noise is still there :( (maybe new oil needed?)

 

Ive got the timing light on it and i can see my mark at about 1k revs as i progress up to 2.5k it disappears clockwise.

so now im trying to undo the 13m bolt so i can adjust the distributor, ive undone the bolt but its not budging.

Any ideas or tips on how to make it rotate??

 

Also

 

in the boost check it says

1600>8.7psi (Needs new apex strips or big boost leak)

1800>11.6psi (OK for original pulley, new apex strips if 68mm pulley)

 

I took it for a run after plumbing it all back in and it was showing "1680"

3000miles ago it was rebuilt by jabba sport and in the other remarks column it said "4 port diffuser" "standard pulley fitted"

 

on the pervious service(about 34000 miles ago) it was upgraded to stage 2, i think that stage 2 has a different pulley and chip but im maybe mistaken.

 

could the ignition timing being out and possibly the wrong chip/pulley be the cause of poor boost? (ive yet to check for boost leaks)

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give the dizzy a gentle love tap on the base,it'll move. you need matching pulleys and chip

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usualy have to put vice grips on the lower part of the dizzy and wrestle it free , soak it in penetrating oil first , might also need to move the fan housing to get a swing on it

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I had a tapping noise for ages... turned out to be the alternator clattering around... a rebuild sorted that out.

 

As for the low boost, it wouldnt be caused by the wrong chip pulley combo... the only things it can be are boost leaks in the pipework or an unhealthy charger.

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ill give the vice grips ago tomorrow, hopefully that would work, ill get the alternator looked into. hopefully its a boost leak then, my boost has increase since i first bought it when it was only getting in the 1400's, on the other hand are the kits available to service your charger yourself easy to work with? or is it best to send it away again? thanks

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well ive come ahead then fallen straight back today, i bored a few holes on the bottom of my air filter to give some extra air and grunt and at the same time cleaned my pipe going to the charger. then whilst having a look in my engine bay i seen my throttle cable was slack, so i got the girlfriend to go into the car and push the pedal down, i noticed it was barely thouching the wot switch so ive adjusted it and its now fully open when the pedal is pushed down.

 

i then took it out for a run to check my boost pressure and wihay im getting 11.6 psi now, which is correct according to the guide i used.

 

when i hit the limiter in 4th i then put it into 5th and put the pedal straight back down and then it all of a sudden bogs down, tried it in fourth and the exact same, its almost asif i was touching the brake pedal i noticed it that much. i did it all the way home in various gears and whenever id put the pedal right down it was bogging.

 

any idea what my problem may be now?

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Do you get a mechanical noise when you stick your foot down?? Kind of like a diesel idling??

 

This sounds like you either have too much timing advance or low octane fuel which may cause your engine to knock and the ecu will retard your timing.

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Do you get a mechanical noise when you stick your foot down?? Kind of like a diesel idling??

 

This sounds like you either have too much timing advance or low octane fuel which may cause your engine to knock and the ecu will retard your timing.

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whilst inside the car and the throttle is pressed it sounds/feels sluggish and then it starts to feel like the engine is slowing the car down and everything is back to normal with a jolt when then the pedal is let go.

 

whilst in the engine bay it wwould be idleing fine, and if i was to fully press the accelorator cable quick and hard to make it wide open it sounds like its dying and you can also hear one big knocking noise and im unable to identify where its coming from

 

should i take a video and post it to see if its any help?

 

---------- Post added at 5:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:09 PM ----------

 

th_18afa81a.jpg

 

its hard to heat but at the 13th second ive just started to hear a new strange noise and at the 30th second you can hear the loud knocking noise. and throughout u can see that im having problems with running. im scared to run it now

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Wow that's missing badly.

 

Any water in your oil or vice versa??

 

Have you done a compression test??

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Just about to head out and check the oil in water etc just now.

Dont have a compression tester though, where shall i find one?

thanks

 

---------- Post added at 6:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:48 PM ----------

 

There's no water in the oil and no oil in the water.

 

I did notice however that the fuel rail had puddles of fuel in it, suspect was the fuel hose coming into the rail so i took it off and cut the end off it and refitted.

this seemed to cure the fuel leak problem and the car is running slightly better but it does still have the same problem when on the throttle.

 

I took it for a run and it would be hesitant but if i battled through it and got up the revs then it ran perfect in 3rd 4th and 5th at 60 then foot to the floor it would pick up but if i left it for a while and never went WOT then the old problem came back to it being hesitant like the video showed.

 

This now seems to be intermittent,

i wonder if this is either:

fuel/ignition related

incorrect setup with timing/ignition/fuel

 

any previous experience with this? im starting to lose my patience with this bloody g60

Edited by laurielaeks

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Howdy again, the lambda sensor seems fine because i can notice a difference with it plugged or unplugged, but i seem to notice no difference when i unplug the air flow sensor, but ive only checked it by having the car running and unplugging it and revving the car, its just performing the same, could this be the problem?

anyone?

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it seems that the spark plugs were at fault, i took them out and they were black. one completely touching both parts and the rest were thick black with white tips, running slightly better now so i might get the ignition side replaced. could the air/fuel being out cause this? thanks

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