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Corrado speedo

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my speedo is not working, i get the revs and gas working but not my speed, its a 93 16V Corrado and electric cable, i know where it goes into gearbox but do not know where it actually connects into dash or whatever? please help pictures would be much appreciated too, Cheers Jayden

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..... but do not know where it actually connects into dash or whatever?

 

Wiring connects to the back of the main instrument cluster. Just remove the black plastic surround - a few screws in the top and bottom (from memory). Then there's a couple of screws holding the cluster itself in. Take those out, ease it forward and you should be able to see the connections to the back. Think it helps to drop the steering wheel out of the way as well.

 

It's not difficult - just go and have a look, it's all fairly obvious.

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You're going to have to try trial and error then- as Tom says, it should be fairly obvious which is the correct one. Just have the clocks on your lap and look for a plug that looks like it will connect and try it...

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this is the connection that goes into my dash.

 

http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=DSCF0431_zps557cb08f.jpg

 

and there all the cords into one plug, um this is another pic of what my speedo looks like down in gear box

 

http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=DSCF0452_zps87f40c3f.jpg

 

u can scroll through the other pix on engine in PHOTOBUCKET like 5 or 6 photos of what i just took

 

Cheers Jayden

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If the connection to the back of the clocks is securely in and there's no other problems with the clocks, it's probably the gearbox sender. The gearbox sender works by rotating and effectively pulsing a switch.

 

I'm assuming, and could be wrong, but I don't think the 2.0 valver has a mechanical speedo cable that connects to the instrument cluster, ala the early valvers.

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Hi

VR6 is correct, it is an electric speedo sensor on the box,i may have a spare on if you get\stuck.

Rod

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should i pull the gear box sender out? how will i know if that the problem or not would it most likely be worn out or something like that? cheers rodmax that will help heaps if its the problem

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In case you haven't done this already - Check all fuses!

 

The speedo went on mine, it went at the same time my ISV started playing up. I eventually took it to an electrical specialists who replaced the ISV, replaced fuse - Clocks came back to life. It seems the ISV and clocks share the same fuse on the 16V (or it does on my 9A anyway)

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Sorry mate if I knew I'd tell you, I asked the engineer but he couldn't remember at the time it might however be on the engineers report I'll check for you.

 

A chap in the garage sorted mine - I was scratching my head trying to work out what was wrong with my speedo for days (other clocks fine). I fitted a new ISV as it was idling badly as well and replaced all the fuses myself etc before I was forced to hand it over to electrical specialists as I suspected one of the looms was faulty - turned out that the new ISV I had fitted was faulty from new so was blowing the fuse which in turn kept knocking the speedo out. It was only when I finally had enough of driving around with a duff ISV (bad idle) and no speedo when I said enough was enough. I put it in the garage and they fitted another ISV unit which DIDN'T blow the fuse and HEY PRESTO - My speedo came back to life.

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ahh that makes sense aye, because yea all wires and stuff seem to be in good condition and not frayed or anything. haha sorry to sound stupid but where is ISV and what is it? haha im just a builder no mechanic :D

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ISV: Idle Stabilizing Valve

 

Location: Circled below

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]69517[/ATTACH]

 

If this is faulty it could well be knocking your speedo out at fuse level. Something else for you to consider that's all

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how would i find out if it is faulty or not? um just took a few more photo, i have found a connector under the ISV, dont know where it comes from but it connects into a plug that comes off one of the leads? this is all smashed in the connector as you will see on photos.

 

this is where it is located http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=image_1348557862717872.jpg

 

and this is what it looks like pulled apart all broken http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=image_1348557869189645.jpg

http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=image_1348557877797821.jpg

http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t467/bma_luva/?action=view&current=image_1348557885890112.jpg

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That's your impulse sender connector dude which to be honest needs some attention too by the looks of it. It's obviously old and brittle hence why it has perished like that. See below for more details about this:

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?76195-Fitting-Knock-Sensor-to-HT-Leads

 

Your ISV is the palm sized cylindrical device that has 2 x vac pipes and 1 x connector coming out of it (it's in the background of your pics!). See circled in previous post. Does your car idle steadily between 800 - 1000 RPM?

Edited by tentonhammer

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oh wicked, ye its absolutly munted haha, um so im due for a new "Impulse sender connector"? my car idles very **** between 800 and 1000 sometimes it will stay idling at around 1500

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where abouts could I purchase a new Knock sensor and ISV for 16v???

 

VW Stock these. I'd sit down though before you ask for a new ISV - They're ridiculous money (£400 - £500 last time I checked!) Impulse sender is about 35 quid.

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yea have looked and not that cheap, double for me also here in NZ, do you need a working knock sensor cause i just put new set of leads on and it goes, how ever speedo still not going and the car still wont rev over 1000 rpm? ps i cleaned the ISV out with a bit of carby cleaner

 

---------- Post added at 9:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:56 PM ----------

 

quick question will VR6 ISV fit 16v??

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You can unplug the impulse sender and the car will run fine for a good 5-6 months, in fact I'm sure there are some people that don't run them at all! I wouldn't advise this though especially if you've had the battery out at some point re-setting the ECU in the process. Can't be good to run your motor without one for long periods of time.

 

I'm curious - what happens at 1000RPM? If your engine coughs and cuts out when you hit 1000RPM there could be a problem with your throttle body potentiometer / connector. Considering the state of your impulse sender connector it wouldn't surprise if you throttle body connector has perished as well forcing the car into Safe mode (limited)

 

And no - a VR6 ISV won't work in a 16v

Edited by tentonhammer

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ok so months later car is still doing same thing, i purchases new leads and impulse sender, also a second hand isv but still same thing,

 

no speedo and bad idle ( wont rev over 1000rpm)

 

but the weird thing is i can drive it 100% and all of a sudden it will just kick in and go sh#t?

 

getting very tired and frustrated with it :(

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