Shrick Intake Gains?

[Dekker 10]

Hi, i've been hanging around a bit but so far haven't seen anything on this, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what kind of gain I could look at by going from a 2.9L intake manifold to the Shrick VGI intake. And I was also wondering how much more I would gain from going with 268 cams along with the manifold and without. Any help would be appreciated.

[Hofmiester 10]

Hi,

I used to have a vr6 with the VWM intake (shrick is basically an aftermarket version of the original VWM version)

 

It also had a Miltek cat back, ported throttle body and an AmD remap and it made 212bhp at AmD but I'm afraid I can't remember the torque figure (it was 10 years ago)

The engine was not old (about 30k on the clock)

 

I suspect that the intake was probably contributing 10-12bhp plus a wedge of extra torque. To be honest, unless power really is you thing then I wouldn't recommend it from a ££££ to bhp point of view. You need the manifold plus the extra Ecu and then fitting plus new gaskets etc

 

Cams are probably more worthwhile as cheaper and provide similar bhp gains to the shrick but without the torque. If you are handy with DIY and your head/tappets are in good nick then you can do the cams for under £500

 

I don't think that doing manifold and cams would yield a compounded gain. By that I mean 10 bhp from cams and 10 bhp from shrick intake is unlikely. You probably see 15+bhp from both together and the shrick contributing a bit torque increase.

But you would have to get the car custom mapped to get the best from it all and that is another £400-500

 

So that's £2000 for 20bhp at the very top end.

 

I have an Octavia VRs as my daily (2.0 TSI) and I spent £1500 on mods and gained 70-80bhp and so spending that kind of money on a vr6 doesn't make sense to me.

 

HTH

 

Ron

[tony_ack 0]

Schricks aren't in huge demand at the moment, and you should be able to pick up full thing (inlet, pipework, ECU) for about £750.

Add about £400 for the 268 cams if you go second hand, but you'll need a new cam cover gasket and cam sensor trigger wheel.

I got a remap for £350 a couple of years ago.

 

So yeah, a pretty pricey way to go... but I'm glad I did it - the Schrick means the torque and power kicks in earlier down the range, and the cams smooth the changeover at 4.5k rpm. It pulls very well all the way to the red line.

 

The results were max 212 bhp, which Vince said was a little on the low side, as he'd have expected about 215-220, but then again the engine has done about 230000 miles, so I can forgive it :-)

 

I fitted the Schrick first in isolation, and it helped bring the power band down the range straight away without any other fettling, and you could feel the results instantly.

 

My view is that it's quite a pricey way to go to get an extra 20-25bhp, but then that's just the headline, and you need to think about improved power and torque all the way through the range. It gives you a much more responsive car, and you can feel the extra power, but without changing the character of the VR6.

 

If you're in it for out and out power, forced induction is more expensive, but will give better gains pound for pound.

[Dekker 10]

Thanks for the quick response, looks like my original plan of getting a cts turbo kit will net me bigger gains at roughly the same pricing.

[nrc 0]

So yeah, a pretty pricey way to go... but I'm glad I did it - the Schrick means the torque and power kicks in earlier down the range, and the cams smooth the changeover at 4.5k rpm. It pulls very well all the way to the red line.

 

That's interesting. Did you arrive at 4.5k by trial and error? I've found the changeover almost unnoticeable at 3.8k on standard cams and without a remap.