Shaunyboy 10 Posted April 27, 2013 Hi guys I've got a G60 and thinking of having a engine rebuild as im not sure if its ever had one and going to get the charger done aswell but have it stage 2 or 4 not sure whats best but thought a rebuild would be a good idea so I don't kill it, unless you guys thunk that it shouldn't harm it? its done 96/7k miles. This also got me thinking, would a 16v head fit on he 8v block and would it work if it was set up properly? thanks guy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 27, 2013 The 8V pistons won't work with a 16V head, although the head will bolt onto the block. To clear the 16valves, the pistons need to have cutouts in them to allow clearance, and the 8V pistons don't have them, so you'd need custom pistons (although you could use 4 S2 pistons if you can find some). To do a 16V G60 is a LOT of work.... you need a shed load of custom brackets, a custom inlet manifold, pistons and lots of other bits too... Not a job for the feint hearted, but one that can produce a lot of power if done well... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaunyboy 10 Posted April 27, 2013 Ah I wondered if that was the case. I should imagine it would be very expensive too. Not worth doing to my daily runner atm, just stick to upgrading the charger. Thanks for the info. What about an engine rebuild do you think thats needed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted April 27, 2013 If the compression is good in the cylinders and no knocking or excess vibration leave bottom end as is.Unless the head is ingesting its own oil theres really no need or valves arent seating correctly. If its a daily get the glader recon and go stage 4 by reputable company, 68mm pulley,GOOD chip and do a consumables change on the engine,ie spark plugs,dizzy cap and arm,all filters and oils. Clean out intercooler and pipes(i use hot water and washing powder) and youll have a happier motor. Sometimes its all it takes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaunyboy 10 Posted April 27, 2013 If the compression is good in the cylinders and no knocking or excess vibration leave bottom end as is.Unless the head is ingesting its own oil theres really no need or valves arent seating correctly. If its a daily get the glader recon and go stage 4 by reputable company, 68mm pulley,GOOD chip and do a consumables change on the engine,ie spark plugs,dizzy cap and arm,all filters and oils. Clean out intercooler and pipes(i use hot water and washing powder) and youll have a happier motor. Sometimes its all it takes The only issue is the idle is a little lumpy when it's warmed up was thinking it could be the disi cap, it's on a long list of things that needs doing lol. Rad is first port of call as I can see pink crystallized bit spotted about and oil change at the same time. It has a smaller pulley on it not sure what size though Thanks for the info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted April 27, 2013 lumpy idle when warm is usually- blue coolant temp sender,vacuum leak(o-ring on idle screw or injector seals) or idle screw not set to correct rpm. I take it since youve got pink coolant its been converted to g12 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaunyboy 10 Posted April 27, 2013 lumpy idle when warm is usually- blue coolant temp sender,vacuum leak(o-ring on idle screw or injector seals) or idle screw not set to correct rpm. I take it since youve got pink coolant its been converted to g12 I didnt know there was an idle screw?? Might be that or an o ring. I'm guessing that it's g12 I haven't had the car long and trying to get it to a good working order. Aswell as use it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
