Over Heating Problems

[x-router 0]

I have a G60 that is going to around 110 water temp which doesn't seem at all good to me.

 

After a quick investigation I found a leak in the pipe that goes into bulk head (I assume for the heating matrix)? So I cut down the pipe sealed it all backup up again but I'm still getting over heating.

 

I think the leak may have been caused by the high tempratures (From reading some posts on here) and then I realized the engine fan isn't coming on.

 

I have removed the 3 pin plug that goes into the radiator and shorted it and the fan comes on so I assume that the temp sensor is bust and I need a new plug?

 

One thing to note is that the car had been in storage for 4 months (I've only had it a week) so I'm wondering if something has ceased like the thermostat. The water hose going to the radiator gets warm but I'm unsure if it's as warm as it should be.

 

Does anyone have any ideas other than replacing that temp plug in the radiator?

 

Also where is the thermostat on the G60? Is it the lump between plug 2 & 3 with the two temp sensors in it?

 

One other thing, where is the drain point on the G60, is it simply taking the lower hose off or is there a valve I can't see?

 

Any help or ideas anyone has got would be great.

[Henny 0]

There isn't a drain plug on a G60.

 

If the fan's not coming on, change the switch (the brass plug thing) they're not expensive and do fail every now and then...

 

The thermostat is actually IN the bottom of the water pump... it's not a hugely bad job to do on a G60, but it's not exactly quick... The plastic flange between 2&3 is just a water outlet with the temp sender for the dash (black one) and the temp sensor for the ECU (blue one) in it... 8)

 

Change the fan switch first, and see if it's any better, if not, post back and I'll do a "how to" on replacing the thermostat... 8)

[mariovr6 0]

listen to henny

he told me to change the fan switch and now i may not ave any skin left on my knuckles but the fan works NICE!!! it costs £ 10.50 from europarts

[x-router 0]

ok ordering THERMO SWITCH 3 PIN PO/GO3/VE/PA/CA/SHARAN :)

 

I've also ordered a thermostat as they are cheap and will save on delivery if I do need it.

 

Will get that installed and let you know what happens, many thanks for the info Henny.

 

I notice in the thread with mariovr6 where he is having very similar issues as me you mention about filling up via radiator hose (I assume the top one). I just topped my system up via the normal top up bottle after it was very low due to the water loss. Have I done possible damage? whats the reason for this?

[Henny 0]

the reason for filling from the top water hose is to prevent air locks... if you're just topping up a little bit (1/2 litre or less) than the expansion tank should be fine... 8) It's only on a full re-fill that it's important to go from the top hose... ;)

[x-router 0]

Ok my Temp switch and Thermostat have arived and I will fit them this weekend.

 

My temprature goes from cold to 110 in under 5 minutes and thats when moving at speed so I'm not sure it's only the fan not on and I figure I might as well replace both while I have got the system drained. I'm going to give it a good flush with some flusing aid as well.

 

Can someone (looks at Henny :)) give me run down on the procedure for the Thermostat?

 

thx in advance 8)

[Henny 0]

yup... I'm stupidly busy at work today, but I'll do you a quick how to when I get home... 8)

[x-router 0]

Well I have drained the system. Replaced the sensor but no difference and now I notice that the bottom of the radiator is cold. Does that suggest the pump or the thermostat?

 

I still can't find the water pump, what am I looking for and where is it's location? Can I change the thermostat from above or do I need to get in below?

[Henny 0]

Water pump on a G60 is at the bottom front of the block and is behind all of the brackets that hold the super charger and alternator on.... it's an utter git to replace considering what it is.... :| :roll:

 

The thermostat lives in the bottom of the pump, but is actually pretty easy to get at... I'll write a "how to" tomorrow morning (sunday) when I'm sober and not falling asleep and post a link here.... 8)

[x-router 0]

Are you sober yet? :)

 

Hate to be a pain but I could use a guide as I'm sure it will save me hours of fumbaling.

[Henny 0]

oops... sorry... forgot about this thread... :oops:

 

I'll do a write up tonight once I've done the clutch in my Golf, so it'll be around 10:30... got my boss here today for my appraisal... :roll: should be fun, how the hell can someone who's been here for under 3 months and only visited this site 3 times appraise someone who's been here every day for 3.5 years! :| :roll:

[x-router 0]

uh hum :)

 

I have an idea where it is by looking at the golf 1.8 haynes but with the super charger ontop I can't see the elbo anywhere. How do I get to it?

[Henny 0]

Sorry, had problems with a sticking throttle (not much fun when you're driving in traffic! :| )

 

If you have a Golf 1.8 Haynes manual, that'll tell you EXACTLY how to do a thermostat as it's exactly the same part, in fact, the pump's identical too! 8)

 

The only way to get at the thermostat is from below.

 

Jack up the car, and you'll see a bracket attached with 2x 13mm bolts going straight up into the front of the block just infront of the sump. You need to remove this bracket. There are those 2 bolts, one at the left side, and a sneaky one inside the bracket on the right side which goes into the top of the P/S pump (sides as you look from the front of the engine... ) once you've undone these 4 bolts, that bracket should drop out. Above where it was there is a black plastic elbow. That's the thermostat housing. There's 2x 10mm headed bolts holding it on, undo them and you'll suddenly get wet as all the coolant drops on your head! :lol: (this is the easiest way to drain the fluid! during this job! ;) ) Personally, I'd replace the plastic elbow as they get brittle with age due to the heat, and a new one's only about £5 anyway... 8) Once that elbow is undone, it'll just pull off the pipe once you've undone the fastener and you'll see the bottom of the thermostat. Pull it out, fit the new thermostat, O ring (don't foget to remove the old one! :roll: ) and Elbow (you may need to attach the pipe during fitting of the elbow else it can be a REAL pig to fit afterwards! ), put the bolts back in and tighten, and then re-fit the bracket... 8) Done....

 

Sorry that took sooo long for my to get around to writing, :oops: kept forgetting and getting side tracked... :|

[x-router 0]

thx Henny. :cheers:

 

Anyways tonight I removed the old thermostat. Haven't put in the new one yet as I spent some time refitting the clips etc and ran out of light. However I have tested my old thermostat and it works....this is not good news as it suggests that my next stop is the pump.

 

Anyone got any other suggestions before I put it all back together...Is it worth leaving the thermostat out and using some flush to try and clear the system?

 

I could be wrong about the thermostat but it def opens up a little bit when put into a bowel of water from the kettle. :(

[Henny 0]

for the price of 'em, sling in the new one and see if it makes a difference... ;)

 

you're gonna have a lot more work on your hands if this doesn't work... :? :(

 

Thermostats fail in quite a few different ways, it's difficult to say if it's working or not just by slinging it in hot water... :?

[x-router 0]

Ok thermostat is replaced. I did a full flush with some halfords cleaner and it's still runiing at 110!

 

I think it's going to have to pay a trip to the VW garage unless anyone has any ideas?

[Henny 0]

it could be something as simple as the gauge beeing bust... :|

 

Are you sure that you are actually getting to 110 water temp? What's the oil reading on the MFA?

 

Change the black sender in the plastic flange on the front of the block, this is the water temp gauge sender and they're a sod for going wrong after being overheated or dried out... Also change the blue one while you're at it (will cost less than £20 for both from GSF or Euro) and don't forget to change the O rings for them too! ;) If this doesn't cure it, I'd see if you can get hold of a cheap water temp gauge to check if the one on the dash is telling a true reading or talking sh!te... ;)

 

Good luck! :)

[x-router 0]

I'll take it out for a run later and check the readings on the oil etc.

 

I did suffer a blown pipe 'which' was when I noticed the problem. The way it had expanded out near the join suggested too much presure.

 

I guess it's worth changing the sensors as is simple job for £20 and one less thing that needs checking if I do take it to VW.

[Henny 0]

I'm keeping an eye on this thread (as with all threads... :roll: :lol: ) so pist up what you find after you've replaced the temp senders and if I can help anymore I will.... :) 8)

 

Pipes expanding near the joint isn't just a sign of over pressure.... it's also a sign of age on VAG rubber pipes... :|

 

unless your pipes are getting ROCK hard, don't panic too much until you've changed the senders.... ;) :D

[x-router 0]

I did take it out for a quick run last night and the oil temp was at 102 after 3 miles. It seemed to hold there as well. Also my fan never kicks in. Despite chaning the temp switch. Shorting the circuit makes the fan come on. I'm going to test the old and new switches to just check they haven't sent me a dud.

 

I'll get those sensors replaced anyways and see what happens.

 

I have to say the engine smells like it's over heating, but perhaps thats my paranioa :)

[Henny 0]

if the fan isn't kicking in with the new switch, it sounds like the water in the rad's not getting up to temp enough to fire off the fan switch... very odd... :|

 

Change those 2 water temp sensors and let us know what happens afterwards... 8)

[vwdubs 0]

Well hows it going x-router, you have exactly the same problem as mine, when I say exactly I mean exactly down to the same tempertaure and the fan problem.

 

I have had advice to see if the radiator is the same temperature over the whole rad once ran up to running temp, make sure the fan is off though, also a rare problem could be the bottom pipe coming out of the collant bottle being blocked, very rare.

 

If the radiator is blocked or damaged it could eb causing this problem apparently.

 

How did you get to the thermostat, this bracket just doesnt come off once the 4 bolts are off it ?

[x-router 0]

Well hows it going x-router, you have exactly the same problem as mine, when I say exactly I mean exactly down to the same tempertaure and the fan problem.

 

I have had advice to see if the radiator is the same temperature over the whole rad once ran up to running temp, make sure the fan is off though, also a rare problem could be the bottom pipe coming out of the collant bottle being blocked, very rare.

 

If the radiator is blocked or damaged it could eb causing this problem apparently.

 

How did you get to the thermostat, this bracket just doesnt come off once the 4 bolts are off it ?

 

Hiya, some itneresting info.

 

With regards to the therostat it's actually five bolts. If you have the haynes for the 1.8L you will see the firth on power stearing bracket. You need to put a long wrench into the back of the bracket to get at it (putting it back in is not easy). There are 3 bolts holding that bracket to the power stearing pump, your 5th one is the one in the middle.

 

I personaly found I needed to remove the entire down pipe from the car. (there is a nut and bolt half way along the pipe, again tricky to get to). With that out you can work on the elbo and get it flush and a good seal much easier. It also alows you to take all the pipe work off down there and give it a good clean and replace your VW clips of doom :)

 

Am am def coming to the conclusion that the rad is fecked. Going to replace my temp sensorrs and if that doesn't work I think it's new rad time.

[vwdubs 0]

Dont replace the rad without having it checked m8ey, I went down to serck's in Oxford cause I thought it was the rad and they said they could test it for free once its off :(. However I think the test is just running water and may not take into account the fact that it is pumped about.

 

I have almost decided its not the rad on mine, I ran it up to 110 within 7 minutes from work, checked the rad and it was cold at the bottom and bottom pipe and hot at the top of the rad and pipe, little did I know the thermo hadnt opened just yet and by the time I drove 3 minutes to the rad place it was all hot (presumably means rad is fine)

 

Righteo, Its time for that damn thermostat tomorrow and Ive just got to pick up a new fan switch so that kicks in properly.

 

Thanks for the 5th bolt info, knew there was some slippery sod somewhere.

[x-router 0]

:-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P

 

Replaced both the black and blue sensors with new ones and now I'm only reading a max of 90. Going to take it on a bit of a drive in a mo to check the results but it looks like it was that all the time. I think there is a small leak still somewhere but I can track that baby down.

 

 

vwdubs I would sugest replacing those sensors or at the very least putting a temp sensor into your rad and getting a temp reading to confirm the reading.

 

Anyways going to find some open road to open the old lady up on :afro:

 

Thx to all, and a big shout for Henny