g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted March 27, 2017 Hi all i have a new idle control valve to fit to my VR & wondered if any of you kind chaps can tell me if they are difficult to remove? I can see it under the rear cowling type thing but not sure what i have to remove to get to it has anyone got any tips or a guide or something that might help pls? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted March 27, 2017 The ISV on a valver is a doddle to remove/refit as it's exposed so pull plug and undo 2 clips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted March 27, 2017 Remove the HT lead covers (easier to remove the HT heads too to get access) and it should be pretty straightforward. You can't really put the leads back incorrectly as the corresponding cylinder is stamped on each coil on the coilpack and if you have OEM leads, they're numbered too :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted March 27, 2017 thanks Jim & MZpog :) i was hoping it was just the 2 clips & a connector but wasnt sure if i needed to remove the HT lead cover as well Jim - i have fancy blue magnecor leads which have the little yellow/black cylinder numbers on them & will take a pic first just to be sure ;) glad i brought a lead removal tool a long time ago lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbradley98 0 Posted March 27, 2017 Hi, Having also done this recently I can confirm a) that it's easy to do! and b) you don't need to pull the ht leads - the lead holder / cover will spin round out of the way without the need to disconnect either end of any of them! Hope that helps! Cheers Phil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted March 27, 2017 Ah excellent... hadn't actually changed the ISV on my VR (done it on a valve) but was just trying to visualise where it lived on the VR! Apologies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted March 28, 2017 Hi, Having also done this recently I can confirm a) that it's easy to do! and b) you don't need to pull the ht leads - the lead holder / cover will spin round out of the way without the need to disconnect either end of any of them! Hope that helps! Cheers Phil winner thanks for that phil, handy to know appreciate all the input people :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted March 31, 2017 May i ask why you are replacing your ISV? Have you not tried cleaning it first? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted March 31, 2017 I think cleaning is overrated, i had a suspect ISV, cleaned it, tested it with 12v refitted it and discounted that as a problem. After much head scratching i bought a "working used example", Cleaned it and tested it and fitted it and still the same issues so defiantly discounted it. Put up with the bad idle for ages, and then removed engine and fitted the new one, checked everything over. Still had the same problem.. Bought a brand new non-genuine ISV (about £40), fitted that and everything solved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted March 31, 2017 May i ask why you are replacing your ISV? Have you not tried cleaning it first? of course you may my mechanic has informed me that it is the motor part of the ICV that has failed, rather than the valve/butterfly being coked up & not opening/closing properly i did also try taking the VR on several long ish runs with some full boot applied to see if it would start to behave again as i am aware that this can happen when a VR is not used for a while plus i got the new one at cost as i work for a motor factors & was of the mindset that even if the old one started to behave it was an indicator if is failing & thus may be wise to just get a new one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted March 31, 2017 I think cleaning is overrated, i had a suspect ISV, cleaned it, tested it with 12v refitted it and discounted that as a problem. After much head scratching i bought a "working used example", Cleaned it and tested it and fitted it and still the same issues so defiantly discounted it. Put up with the bad idle for ages, and then removed engine and fitted the new one, checked everything over. Still had the same problem.. Bought a brand new non-genuine ISV (about £40), fitted that and everything solved. for those reasons above i thought best to just get a new one too lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted April 1, 2017 What price should it have been from your company? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 13 Posted April 4, 2017 What price should it have been from your company? they are around £140 having had a look on ebay etc i got for £75 + vat fitted on saturday & it fixed the issue on first turn of key Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted April 4, 2017 I bought one like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK3-2-8-VR6-PETROL-1992-1997-IDLE-AIR-CONTROL-VALVE-/111872739441?hash=item1a0c228871:g:HiwAAOSwwPhWlNy~ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
