almeidk

Thanks for your input dr mat. I cannot speak to the differences between North American and European models. I do have to apologize for my terminology errors. When I have used the terms "OE anti theft control module" I should have used "OE alarm system control module" which is depicted in the anti theft alarm system drawings in the repair manual. I think I have pinpointed my problem. It seems there is constant 12v being supplied on the lock circuit. This is continuously arming/switching on the OE alarm system control module, which prevents the car from cranking. I have checked continuity across the driver door central locking system switch (in door operated by key) and it is functioning properly. Tomorrow I will check the passenger door switch. In the drawings they reference a " F131 Central locking system door switch, left front". I am not sure what this is. I know they're are 1 in each door activated by the key lock. But I don't have any other lock switch I can see. Can anyone help with this? Has anyone had, or can anyone think of anything that could supply 12v to the lock circuit? Or why there would be a continuous 12v being supplied? Also I am going to go back and edit my posts so they are using accurate terminology so that this post is clear and helpful.

Hi everyone thanks for the help and suggestions. I tried jumping the car from another vehicle and still no crank. I couldn't get passed the feeling the issue lies with the OE anti theft alarm system control module. I disconnected the 6 wire terminal off the module and piggy backed the red/green T6/5 and red/black T6/6 wires, turned the key and car cranked and started no problem. Just to be thorough I also checked the power feed red T6/3 wire to the module and got 12v, so I know the fuse is good and unit it recieving power. I also forgot to mention in my original post that when I close all doors and hood, I get the blinking red light on the driver's door. It sometimes blinks quicker than normal and no matter how many times I try to unlock/lock driver/passenger doors it doesn't stop blinking. Which makes me question whether I am able to disarm/switch off the anti theft control module. Hence my questions about which way to turn the key. New info: Turning driver door key clockwise activates the unlock function of vacuum system, but after allowing the system to cycle once, another clockwise turn locks door. Vice versa for unlock. Not sure if that's part of the issue. Keep in mind it's been like that since I got the car. Summary: Car starts no issue when bypassing anti theft control module. Module is receiving power. Cannot get blinking red light on driver door to stop, which makes me believe I cannot disarm OE anti theft control module. Questions: 1. Is there anyway to disarm/switch off the OE anti theft control module other than turning key in the doors? 2. Any ideas on why the blinking light in the driver's door would blink faster than normal occasionally? 3. What is the easiest wiring change/wiring reversal that would make the doors unlock/lock oppositely using the vacuum system? Assumptions: I believe either the anti theft control module has failed, or I cannot switch it off/disarm it. Final investigation: Check to ensure the anti theft control module is recieving signal from door locks to disarm system. If it is recieving signal module is faulty.

Sorry Dox it is not Mk4. It's a complete engine out of a Passat of the same vintage. I was given incorrect information from the previous owner before I bought the car.

Hi Everyone, I apologize if I am asking stupid questions, I have looked at every thread I can to find the answers to my questions. I have searched the internet for an owner’s manual but cannot find one. I am in Canada and bought a Canadian model 94 Corrado VR6 a couple years back, and have never had any issues with it. It is fitted with the stock/OEM anti theft alarm system control module (part #: 357 953 233) and an aftermarket Avital 2100 alarm system. I have no background information as why both were used together but I assume the aftermarket system was installed for keyless entry. I have been away at school for a couple months and had my dad start the car for me every few weeks with no issues. The aftermarket key fob battery died the other day, my dad replaced it, and all of a sudden issues arose. The wiring in the car has never been touched since I got the car and everything worked fine until the key fob battery was changed, however I believe this is coincidence. New Issues: - Opening the door, hood, or turning key in ignition activated OE alarm system - Car does not crank. I think I can hear the fuel pump priming, but when turning the key to start the starter does not crank. - Keyless entry on afternarket key fob no longer locks/unlocks doors Investigations Complete: -Pulled negative off battery and left over night in attempts to reset OE alarm -Reset aftermarket alarm -Turned on heater fan and tried to start car and ignition stops fan, also checked ignition input to OE anti theft control module and it shows 12v when attempting to start - leads me to believe ignition switch is okay -Turning key to ON turns on fuel pump (I believe it is the buzzing I hear) -Tried disarming/switching off OE alarm by unlocking driver/passenger doors with key then starting car but no crank -OE alarm no longer goes off when door, hood is open, but car does not crank -The aftermarket alarm system has the possibility for starter interrupt but it was never installed - only things connected is door switch positions, unlock/lock, siren - Pulled red/green wire off starter and tried to start car, did not get 12v signal - Followed test procedure 90.52 of official repair manual, electrical section, and have 12v on red/green T6/5 and have continuity on red/black T6/6 wire (however I do not know if I have actually switched off the OE anti theft control module) Other info: -Turning the key in either door unlocks/locks both doors, I believe I hear vacuum pump operating and manual lock rods move up/down -2 keys were supplied with the car. One key has a single button under the VW logo, and the other has no button. The key with the button I believe is a lighted key. Questions: -How do you disarm/switch off the OE anti theft alarm system control module? -How do you know when it is armed/disarmed? -How do you reset the OE alarm system? -Which directions do you turn the key to lock/unlock the pass/driver door? Clockwise/Counterclockwise? -Is there a starter fuse? Where is it? I checked the 3 fuses under the hood (on black box under clear cover on driver side by the brake oil reservoir). -Does anyone else have anything they feel I should try or investigate?

yea its called the idle air control valve on the diagram.. I just cant find out whether or not it goes to the fuse box?... if you have a rough idle it could be many different things. check out this diagnostic flow chart. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76271[/ATTACH] to check for vaccuum leaks look for damaged hoses, if they look good, while the cars running use carb cleaner and spray any vaccuum joints and listen for any changes to rpm, be very careful of the exhaust manifold check to see if your isv vibrates( its under the plastic engine cover at the rear of the engine).. if it vibrates its working( whether its in spec or not youll have to check).. its worth cleaning it (pull it off by disconnecting the rubber hoses and the gray electric plug, clean it with carb cleaner a couple times until it looks good, you should also check to see if the isv is receiving 12volts(with the key in the on position but car off) check to see if the gray isv plug is getting the 12volts, while its off you might as well check the resistance across the terminals ( dont have the bentley manual so im not 100% sure what it should be hopefully someone will post it) let dry and reinstall if that doesnt solve your problem its most likely your maf ( clean that also but be very careful because most maf's are very expensive) if not that it could be a number of other things this forum is full of very good information use google search instead of the forum search and you can find pretty much anything your looking for i highly suggest gettin your hands on vag com and the bentley manual( looks like im getting one too cause im at the point where i need one, unless someone helps me out :) )

hey guys so Ive been doing alot of research because my car has a slightly rough idle. which i quickly learned was probably my isv. when i checked it didnt vibrate so i checked to the voltage across the terminals. it reads only 2.5 volts not the 12v its supposed to. from there i knew there was probably a damaged wire. took the plastic engine covers off and the wires looked good. (they had a couple sharp bends and one or two twists so i replaced those parts of the wire) So now im very confused because the wires to the isv look good as far as i could trace them (underneath the windshield washer fluid bottle). I have the wiring diagram for the vr6 corrado but im not expert on reading wiring diagrams. From what i can see the isv has no fuse and it has two wires that go directly to the ecm (page 11 and page 12 of wiring diagram). (it seems wierd that the isv wouldnt have a fuse on its circuit.) Corrado94.pdf Am i reading the diagram correctly? If not where does the isv connect to the fusebox ( which plug and pin position ( on the 16valve i kno its plug g2 pin 4 but on the vr6??) And can anyone think of why the isv would be receiving 2.5 volts instead of 12 volts? Has anyone had/fixed this problem? Any trouble shooting suggestions? I appreciate any help thanks kevin

Hey guys new to the forum but have had tons of help and really starting to love this forum. thanks in advance for any input. Ok so i just bought a 94 corrado that had been sitting for 2 years. the motor has been swapped with a 02-04 mk4 vr6 motor. i changed fluids, filters, cleaned spark plugs and have drained as much gas as i could before filling with 94 octane gas. the car starts up no problem but sounds a little rough and a little tappy. the voltmeter reads 14v on start up and 13v when the fans come on and about 12v with everything else going(blower, defrost, lights, wipers, etc). after driving the car around the block the car stalled on me after i got to about 50km and let off the gas. the guy i bought the car off took it to a import mechanic who specializes in vw. i went to talk to him and he remembers the car. he told me the volt issue is because the motor has performance pulleys on it and that changes the belt speed. he said the car has always had a small rough idle issue and the guy i bought it off drove it with the rough idle for appx 40000 km or so. i forgot to ask him about the tappy sound anyone have any thoughts is that common?(keep in mind the motor is mk4 vr6) He said the stall might be from a faulty egr valve( or something that sounds like that)..any idea which valve could cause this ? all vacuum hoses look good at first glance the last thing i noticed was that what i think is the oil breather hose (connects to air filter hose) was a little oily/dirty and drips very slightly onto exhaust heat shield. Also the sensor on that breather hose is kinda oily. If anyone has any input on how to resolve this rough idle issue it is greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance. kevin

hey guys sorry to bother you with another question but im trying to use the search forum function to look up threads. if i search :change gear oil , literally a million threads pop up . I wanna look up threads for changing all those fluids but dont have time to search all 504 pages of threads. is there a easier way to search for stuff on this forum? thanks kevin

Hey this is my second post and I'm loving this forum already. I'm buying a 94 corrado with a mk4(1999-2004) vr6 that has been sitting for 2 years. I want to change everything and do everything that will prevent any damage to the car when i turn it over. As of right now I'm going to change all the fluids, fuel filter (1 or 2?), oil filter. Then i will crank the motor over with the spark plug wires disconnected?(to lubricate bearings/seals) Reconnect spark plug wires and turn car over normally. If anyone agrees or disagrees your advice is appreciated. I talked to the mechanic who did the engine swap/rebuild and he said they used 5w-40 full synthetic engine oil after the rebuild so I will use the same. also VW dealer said thats what they use ($8.50/quart) VW told me that they use mineral oil in their power steering( 94 corrado vr6 and mk4 vr6) so am going to get it from the dealer ($30) the gear oil for the transmission from the dealer($18/quart) didnt have a weight(eg 75w-90) on the bottle but my buddy works at a parts store and when i gave him the product number it came up both 75w-85/90 so i will just go to the dealer ...anyone know which is right 85 or 90? is there a gear oil filter? Coolant is red from the dealer ($25) .. is it any better than a brand name coolant? Also the car has all silicone hoses and fittings and uses red coolant already. is that correct? Brake fluid is DOT 4 and from the dealer its $10 /quart. If anyone has anything that i should do before i start the car I appreciate any feedback, just dont want to forget something small and end up doing alot of damage to my baby lol thanks again kevin

thanks a lot roger. I forget to mention the motor has been swapped from a 2004 gti. I don't know if that changes anything or if there are any other tips u have for me. thanks again kevin

hi i am a new member to the forum and new to the corrado family. i just bought a 94 corrado vr6 that has been done up real nice, it has been sitting for 2 years in a garage and hasn't been started since. I wanna flush the gas lines and change the oil before i start her, and am wondering if anyone can suggest any other fluids or other things i should do that i really should change before i turn her over. i will probably change the coolant as well, should i change the gear oil in the manual transmission? power steering fluid? any help is greatly appreciated, thanks alot in advance. kevin