davidwort

http://www.kriso.ee/cgi-bin/shop/253910.html 8) wonder if they'll do a Corrado one?

depends on the engine, a 16v takes about 6.5 litres If I Recall Correctly - which I don't nope, according to Haynes it's 5.5 litres for the 16v

A good independant garage will do a pressure check for you, it would only take five minutes, a dash mounted VDO or similar oil pressure gauge is a good investment IMO, look for one (with it's twin connector sender) from an audi 80 sport or coupe, bit expensive to buy new. checking the wiring at the sender for corrosion and swapping the senders with some second hand ones (fitted to loads of VW's and plentiful in scrapyards) will help you to isolate the problem.

:lol: :lol: :lol: I wouldn't take that too seriously, the most wasted hundred quid you'll ever spend - it's just a manifold air leak :roll: David.

Temp was 108 deg C, but I've had it up to 122 with no probs. Light and buzzer always come on at the same time as far as I'm aware. 16v isn't it? they all use a bit of oil, especially as the heads get older, that's unlikely to have anything to do with an oil pressure problem, it's just the guides and stem seals allowing the engine to burn a bit. Doesn't sound great that you say it beeps round bends when the oil is a bit low, I've never had that happen so it may be due to you letting the oil drop a bit too low between top-ups which might not be good news for your engine. Not wanting to scare you but the oil pressure light and buzzer is not a great warning as things have to be getting pretty bad for them to go off. Hopefully it may just be a dodgy bit of wiring or a duff sensor, or even the dash itself. I get the occasional beep when the car is cold on very cold mornings, but having a pressure gauge too I know there's no problem it's just very high resistance or the voltage regualtor for my dash starting to go, water temp gauge also gives the occasional flash. As others have said in similar postings in the past, I'd get the pressure checked ASAP with a gauge. David.

yep, like I said above: Corrado and golf 3 1H0 711 265 shift cable 1H0 711 266 selector cable all C's have the same part no's regardless of year.

early or late style?

shift is the forward backward movement of gear lever, 'shifting' in and out of gear, it's the right hand cable on top of the gearbox in pre 92 cars or the bottom cable (through the big bracket on top of the gearbox) in the post 92 type, or the one that has the shift weight mounted on it. David.

cable part numbers seem to be different for the passat, but they are the same on 2L or VR6 mk3 golfs (smaller engines have rod shift boxes) Corrado and golf 3 1H0 711 265 shift cable 1H0 711 266 selector cable passat (1988-94) 3A0 711 265 shift 3A0 711 266 selector perhaps they're a slightly different length on the passat as it uses a different floorplan? David.

If you want to check whether that's really the problem, I work in Milton Keynes and I've got a second hand one from an audi that I used on my 16v to check my original was OK, it worked perfectly as did my original 1.8 16v one even though the part number is slightly different. My 16v original one is exactly the same part number as the G60 so it will probably work fine for you. You can use it just to check if you've got a problem or you can have it for a few quid if yours can't be cleaned and it works for you OK, up 2 U. David.

you need to trace all the vac hose rubber connectors through the pipework, they perish with age, the brake servo pipe's linked in with this too. no need to SHOUT though :wink:

CV joint high temp grease is fine. David.

went from boge's to koni sport TA's on my 16v with eibachs, much improved, boge's were far too hard particularly on the rear, koni rears also have adjustable spring plates meaning you can balance the rear ride height with the front properly. David.

2nd hand shouldn't be more than 20 or 30 quid, 50 at most and I'd expect a garantee from a breakers if it's that much. have all the fuel pressures been checked out properly by the garage - do they know what they're doing with KE-jet? David.

check the earth strap to the head, if that's dodgy you can get high oil temp readings. David.

just need a small punch to knock the old races out, use the old race to tap the new ones in, providing the wheels spin freely with the handbrake off I can't see they have overheated from binding brakes, perhaps they were both badly adjusted? You will need a caliper wind back tool though most likely, I'd personally replace the rear disks while I'm at it. Oh, you will need grease and a couple of split pins. David.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hb ... ition.html :shock: ...so that's why VW put those warning stickers in the engine bay :lol:

All I know is the green fluid is the same stuff that's used in hydraulic suspension systems like the French Citroens, this is often labelled as 'LHM' fluid. - probably not much help to you in the States though.

there are some black topped sensors, just a very slightly different value to the brown ones IIRC. David.

I bet you dealer wouldn't even be able to tell you which Petrol to put in your car, let alone PS fluid. :lol: We should try this one out on them :roll:

I'm so glad you said that, after 10 years of using the green LHM type stuff in my 1990 16v I was a bit puzzled by the talk of red caps and red fluid :?

I really wouldn't bother doing the cam chain, unless the car is mega mileage or there's noise coming directly from the chain, it's a real pain to take all the inlet off and then remove the cam cover, you'll need new gaskets for the inlet manifold and cam cover. Do it if you need to replace the cam cover gasket because of leaks etc.. but I really wouldn't do it just becasue it's time for a cam belt change. It runs in oil all the time and I've never heard of them failing, I doubt whether most are changed the life of the car. I did mine on a full engine rebuild at 120,000 miles, only because I was in there anyway and the chain is just a few quid, but the old one was fine really. David.

for both to go it could be the relay dying or the switch feed to it coming away, can't see why your fuseboard fuse would blow though unless there's a short as the wiring will be taking little current if all it's doing is switching the relay. Problem with relayed lights (aftermarket looms) is that most people don't protect the wiring or relays from the elements, it's a grotty place for electrics, under the bonnet, and connectors are rarely as good as VAG ones. For some of the above reasons I've used separate relays for left and right and fitted them inside a box for a bit of extra protection. David.

I've found washing-machine liquid much better, preferably the bio ones, great for cleaning oil off your hands too as it dizzolves everything even in the lines in your skin/under nails, downside is it strips all the natural oils out of your skin too! It's nearly as bad on tarmac drives as petrol though :oops: Still, the 'colour' ones shouldn't take the colour out of your carpet :) David.

wobbly earth connection on head gave wacky high readings on mine???