davidwort

Standard wheel pressures are on the filler flap or door b pillar, the corrado figures have always been a bit hard for my taste, although it does make for very responsive steering. I've always tried the 'suck it and see' approach to some extent as different makes of tyre can require different pressures even on the same size/profile. David.

One good thing about the valver is it's cheap to run, providing VAG isn't your first stop for everything. Even a complete set of bushings for the front and rear suspension and steering including ball joints set me back less than a hundred quid (providing you're a handy DIYer!) The most expensive item I've ever had to buy (non performance upgrade) was a PS pump and that was the same as a mk2 golf one, 120 quid new. When I factor in the depreciation of only 3-4 grand in 9 years (and now on 135,000 miles) it must be one of the best drivers cars per £ I could have invested in :D Just think, there must be some people who went for a Ford Probe over the Corrado, :crazyeyes: David.

wot d'you think of this, another sky-diving depreciating golf saloon or an A4 beater? David.

Was ambling along the other day in the rush hour when I got stuck behind a new VW transporter, the rear door wipers/arms (double rear doors) are of the new polo/MK5 golf style (nice clean arm with just a thin blade protruding and same spindle mounted washer nozzle) Wondered if this would fit the C?, I can only check the older style arms on ETKA but they seem to be about the right length 400-450m blades, the transporter arms are also bent hopefully suited to the C, unlike the (far too) short golf 5 ones. Anyone have a work/hire van they can take apart and check? :) BTW, I don't fancy an old style arm and front aero style blade on the back. David.

yep fine, valvers run a bit hotter than 8v's David.

you need to get underneath for the PS pump tensionner bracket bolts, I've never reached them from above. David.

your battery isn't charging! check the brushes on your alternator, replace the brush pack if worn, should be about a tenner. easy to remove brush pack, just two phillips screws on the end of the alternator. look for black thing in pic with screw heads either side David.

That's the early vw steering column size, if you look on the corrado there is an adapter ring (almost impossible to remove) that is larger and has more splines, you need a boss to suit VW's from approx 1988 onwards Sorry, think I misread your post, but in any case the above is still true. David.

Not fun, you need to remove the PS pump from it's mounting(swing it out of the way) and alternator and the heavy bracket bolted to the block under that, then the pump is under that lot. It's pretty much all a bunch of 13mm and 17mm nuts and bolts but fairly time consuming (the ps bracket is a pain as at least one bolt is hidden inside it) You will then have to remove the waterpump pulley from the pump itself, I'd suggest investing in an allen key socket for this 6mm I think. You might as well replace the thermostat housing seal and thermostat while you're at it too. Buy a complete pump, not just the impeller, not worth it for saving a tenner. Then it's the usual bleeing air from the system as you fill it back up. I'd allow 2 or 3 hours if you've not done it before. David.

your post is titled 'optimum height', if you really mean that then going too low could mean your wishbones are pointing upwards some of the time and that won't be 'optimum' for handling. If best handling is your goal then don't go too low as suspension travel and geometry will be a big problem, if it's for looks only then go for a ride height that suits your wheel size viewed against the arches, IMO once the tyre disappears under the arch it starts to look worse than a tyre that fits neatly. Of course adjustable ride height is probably what you really need, then you can 'jack it up' for trips though bad speed humps. On second thoughts what you really need is a citroen on hydro/pneumatic suspension then you can go from tractor to race car with the flick of a switch :wink: David. David.

£462.95 for a rear bumper :shock: http://www.eurocarparts.com how much are VW currently trying to charge then :shocked!:

A complete system, 3 parts, rear box, centre square box/resonator and front pipe with narrow silencer is not cheap from any source. There is a centre box on e-bay 8) Try a VW dealer first on a price for each of these parts, some bits you may be able to source more cheaply (non-genuine VW bits) from places like GSF or Euro Car Parts (ECP) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ your car should have the bar type hangars, rather than the early corrado hook hangars and should have a chassis number after 50-N-000001 this is generally around the 1992 onwards cars a 'pattern' tailbox should be easy to source and around the 80 quid mark, the front small pipe should be OK as it gets hot pretty quick and doesn't suffer from condensation or salt spray so much. Most small/independant garages should be able to fit this for you for about an hours labour at the most, say 40 quid??? David.

19mm and it's probably best to fit a new copper washer

Just seen your sig and the lightened flywheel, what sort of difference does that make on the valver? Both Bally and I are interested in this mod but don't want to make the revs drop to badly on changes etc... ta, David.

Should have got something on here a year ago but here goes: Black 1990 1.8 16v Eibach springs Koni sport dampers 2.0L Audi 6A block (40,000miles, car:165,000) KR head ported and gas flowed Blue Samco hoses WUR mod for increased fuelling gas flowed inlet and exhaust manifolds VDO console gauges Italvolante wheel Borbet 'C' types with GoodYear F1's uprated headlight loom and phillips extreme bulbs lights 'on' warning gearbox shift weight added Janspeed S1 stainless exhaust Infinity components up front, CD headunit and boot mounted amp door pocket mounted drivers window switch Jetex response panel filter + no snorkel Lupo wipers passat centre sunvisor front vibratechnics engine mount 140bhp at the wheels (est 170+ at crank) and 150lb/ft new rear beam bushes, plus all suspension and wishbone bushings polished and smoothed throttle body red dash and switches

we can check the contacts/sender at the weekend and swap it out if needs be. David.

I'd just keep a full record of all receipts and perhaps mileages of oil changes for a future purchaser, I don't personally think at this age of car FSH adds a great deal as individual car condition is far more important to me than a set of stamps. David.

I fitted an oil filter housing from a SEAT Toledo (late VW 1.6-2.0 style) and it has three mounting points for oil pressure and temperature senders (instead of my C's original 2), in fact it came with a temp sender on it, on my 16v this meant that the oil temp sender on the head reads the MFA and the second on the oil filter bracket is free for a separate gauge. I swapped the head wiring to the bracket sender and the temp reading was exactly the same at the oil filter housing. The senders all earth through the block, so you can't just attach two wires to one sender I wouldn't have thought. You could always fit a sender inside the car so your MFA gave you the inside and outside temp :) David.

apologies to daves16v for using his pics but here is a comparison of a very minor tweak to the drivers wiper to get better clearing of the screen nearest the 'A' pillar. I know it doesn't look much but a combination of setting the arm a tiny bit higher on the screen at rest position and bendng the pivot 'prong' that the blade pushes onto really does get the blade much nearer the A pillar and more parallel with it. I needed to slightly enlarge the inside of the metal sleeve on the blade where it pushes onto the arm as the bent prong made the arm stiff to pivot, if not free this prevents all areas of the blades swipe from clearing water. My image of the wiper 'up' was taken to the side slightly more than 'daves16v' so the difference in closeness to the A-pillar doesn't look as great as it actually is, I reckon I get about 2cm more swept area by the pillar. The height of the 'at rest' position does not seem to obscure the forward vision any more than before, which is not at-all, and anyway much better than the old Corrado wipers. Note: I have a drivers side blade on the drivers side arm at the moment. David.

I've managed to improve this a bit by bending the pin on the arm that the blade pivots on, sounds a bodge but it works well, I'll put some pics up of the full up position of the blades to show where they reach now, not quite as good as my old C arms but better than when I first fitted the lupos and the blade still parks neatly, just slightly straighter on the screen. I've just got to file out the centre of the blade pivot to let them tilt freely on the arm again, as the blade needs to move slightly as the arm crosses the screen or you get missed bits of water. David.

Blue = Water ??? Black = Oil ??? Makes sort of sense I guess. I know a few people who I wouldn't trust to put the right stuff in the right place! I can see people still getting confused between washer bottle and coolant though! David.

Never heard of that one? Wouldn't surprise me though, I mean GSF sold me a 16v radiator that was an 8v carb one just the same physical size as a 16v (less cores) :roll: all the part numbers for polos, passats, corrados and golfs seem the same 1H0 121 321C for the tanks caps David.

well, although the 4cyl VW/audi bottom end is pretty much bullet proof the 16v head is not a masterpiece for performance, although it is generally acknowledged that you can get 170bhp from an ABF (mk3 16v) quite easily without wild cams or major headwork. I think the minor improvements over the 6A/9A Corrado/Passat/Audi 80 2.0 16v plus the fully electronic fuel injection does produce a good improvement. The golf G60 Limited was an 1800 16v with a G60, but only 210bhp, difficult to get the G60 charger to last very long at the higher revs it needs to spin to get more power than that and the charger is just not really big enough for larger engines. David.

cap is pretty new, although it is a GSF replacement and blue rather than the VAG black one, seal looks OK and it doesn't seem to have any residue from the anti-freeze around the cap or tank, I think I'll bypass the matrix as Henny suggested and take another careful look at every pipe joint, cheers, David.

Great idea, cheers very much, will try that first, David.