davidwort

answer is: quite a bit, the gear cables are the same, but you need the shift weight, main cable support bracket and the entire selector unit and shaft with all the levers and bolts on it. I'm hoping I have the right year of Passat parts to do the job and will take pics and write it up if I'm successful. Basically you need the bits off a 1992 on Corrado or Passat with the updated linkage, it's quite different from the first years of cars 1988-1991, unfortunately it's not just a case of bolting on the weight. David.

:notworthy: thanks very much, if all goes according to plan this should improve the early style 02A linkage, seemed a bit of a bargain as the scrappy let me have the lot for a fiver, cable mounting bracket and everything, only problem I might have is clearing the PS fluid reservoir with the shift weight, looks like this is why the later cars have a round PS reservoir and relocated it. ta again, David.

yeah, I tried that but TBH it looks crap compared to the Lupo ones, especially from inside the car, the lupo ones create virtually no obstruction to vision compared to the C ones, especially slightly bent C ones. Mine are on order now. David.

Anyone have any ideas if you can simply unbolt the selector unit on an 02A gearbox to replace parts on the unit. I've got a complete set of levers, weight and selector unit from a passat to update my old 1990 gearbox selector, looks like it's just a case of unbolting the two 13mm bolts that hold the unit into the gearbox (that's how easy the passat one was to take off) Haynes is just a bit vague (surprisingly :roll: ) about removing and refitting the unit and other that saying 'make sure the unit is in neutral', doesn't really say if anything will drop off inside the box and require me to strip the whole thing down! :shock: cheers, David.

check the brush pack first, I've never had much trouble with VW alternators but the brushes do wear out, only two phillips screws to undo on the back of the unit and less than a tenner for a new brush pack. I wouldn't buy a new alternator anyway, you could pick up one from a scrappy for less than 20 quid and if the bearings are smooth just fit a new brush pack again. David.

mmm, I had a TSR built KR bored to 1984cc, don't even want to get started on that, believe me the 6A/9A/ABF is a safer way to go. I've still got the scrap metal if you want to see why :cry: David.

6A is the audi 2L 16v engine, basically same as 9A passat/Corrado one but with a different inlet manifold and sump pan, I got one with Bally from a local scrap yard for 100 quid for the whole engine last weeekend! I don't reckon you'll notice the difference with an ABF, it's very subtle and realistically there's little or no power and torque difference with the same head, cams and manifold. Lots of threads on the Club GTI forum about this issue but no proof an ABF is, or can be any revvier or more torquey, In fact I think the ABF mk3's had a lower rev limit than a KR, but that could be for some other reason like emissions? sorry I thought you said more revvier, not less, in theory the ABF design should be better at high revs I think. David.

Not yet had my new 6A block on the rollers yet, but the same head and manifolds on my old bored out KR block (exactly same capacity) gave 150lb/ft on AMD's rollers and 146lb/ft on Stealth's. On stealths rollers it was 8lb/ft better (peak) than a good stong low mileage standard 2.0 16v corrado with the 9A block and flatter inlet cam run just before mine on the same day. Also developed over 140 lb/ft from 4500 to 6500 rpm :-) David.

internally polish and port match at least the lower half to the head, you only want a rough polished surface and to remove some of the quite rough casting lines inside, with a ported and polished head, even on a 2.0L lump the 42mm inlet (esp when cleaned up and port matched) is perfectly OK IMO. David.

my last VAG filter for a 2.0 16v was 2.80 plus vat :-) cheaper than GSF or ECP David.

yep, that does the job, and makes a lovely mess too :) Slightly refined approach though, start with a small screwdriver to make a hole and then hammer the big one through. After years of experimenting I've just about got the right tightness on the filters so that after 5 or 6000 miles if they're clean I can just about undo them by hand too, how sad :roll: David.

I put a standard 16v one in mine from GSF Alex, after many miles running on the tuned 2L lump I've had no problems with it at all, earlier this year (as you know) I had to rebuild the engine and the clutch was still like new. David.

:shock: :shock: :shock: why buy it then??? It's got to be worth just fitting a second hand one when your looking at £25 Not to mention having better things to do than taking a VW sunroof mechanism apart and then assembling it again :) David.

As Mike said Bally, the mechanism may fit, and the motor from the C fitted the mk3 mechanism fine, but the panel itself was definitely a no-no, bulged up way too much, David.

your exhaust may not be providing the engine with enough back pressure, this will almost certainly kill the already weak low down torque of the 1800 16v, A standard system will sort this, providing the engine is healthy generally, get a compression test done and check all the ignition system (replace anything thats obviously tired or suspect) and get the car set up to about 2% CO at idle (MOT test station can do this) Providing the car is not coked up and is run on decent fuel amke sure the base ignition timing is at 6-7 degrees advance. Long term, search for a 6A/9A or ABF 2L bottom end, that will improve torque though the rev range considerably. David.

you don't need the early hazzard switch, just the red plastic cover, and you need to carefully trim a couple of bits of plastic from either side of the hazzard switch so the early cover fits. David.

Yup, I've just had them put on my C. You need the Mk4 rear calipers and Mk2->Mk4 adapter hoses. The whole lot is about £200 from C&R. Ok, but I don't see why it's worth using the alloy mk4 calipers when mk3 ones have a redesigned handbrake release mechanism anyway and are a fraction of the price of the mk4 ones, which need special hoses too. mk3 ones are just a direct fit too with the standard hoses. There's not even any really worthwhile weight saving, apart from on your wallet :wink: . I've already had mk 3 ones on my car longer than the original mk2 ones and they are still perfect. David.

Nope, that rad is not a 16v one, it's simply the same dimensions, ECP have got this wrong :roll: The 16v one has more cross tubes and cools better but is about 115 quid :shock: You can get away with the 8v carb rad as it doesn't get too hot in this country generally, but it is the wrong part for the car technically. David.

thanks very much guys :salute: Now you explain it, it makes sense, as we twizzled the motor manually on the spare roof setup to open it to get at the panel fixings. As they say: 'A little knowledge is dangerous' :oops: cheers, David (and Bally)

As it's only ATW torque that is actually measured on the rollers, does anyone know how accurate ATW bhp figures are, i.e. are there any particular problems calculating this, seems like a simple rpm associated sum to me, but then I failed my maths and physics A level miserably :-) David.

Mucking about last night trying to fit a glass panel to 'Bally's' 16v and we unbolted the metal roof panel, once we discovered we had a mk3 moonroof panel (which is far too curved to fit the c ;-( ) we put the metal panel back in place, adjusted it up on the four fixings and now the roof will wind screwing manually but will only close from tilted on the motor, then seems to get stuck. I suspect that removing the motor temporarily to use it to wind the mk3 roof open has caused the problem and somehow the two cables/ guides are slightly out of alignment. Anyone got any idea on this??...Mike E.? - AKA sunroof supremo ;-) cheers, David (and Bally)

KR cams can go in an ABF, not sure about the ABF but it's only the inlet on the KR that's different to the 9A, and I believe the ABF cams are better than the 9A but not quite as much lift as the KR inlet but perhaps a bit more duration? In general I don't think there's much between the ABF and KR cams although the KR's were designed when emissions levels weren't such a problem. David.

OK, I'm going to get these dampers ordered ASAP, I'll leave this open to the start of next week, so if anyone does wan't to get some Koni's, now is the time to confirm this. Unfortunately I can't really better the prices http://www.larkspeed.com list for full kits and their website doesn't cover the Corrado dampers separately, I'll ring if I get time. Also, the prices I can obtain single items for will probably work out about the same as buying more locally to yourself when carriage costs are included, so if you want say a pair of rear shocks and are within easy reach of Milton Keynes or Northampton then you can probably save about 20 quid or so through the group buy, add carriage and I doubt whether it would be much more than a tenner saved. Discount is roughly 10% on orders greater than 5 items. I can hang on for longer but will close this early next week if there is no more interest, David.

Oh, and yes no1 is at the cam belt end, and also, invest in a Haynes passat manual 88-91 if you can find one, covers loads of stuff for the corrado 16v including torque settings and loads of tolerances etc... David.

get a 19mm socket on the crank pulley centre bolt, turn the engine over by hand clockwise from the cam-belt end of engine (bit stiff as you're working against the compression) and you will see a timing mark (little fine line/groove) on the wide inner edge of the pulley, there is also an arrow (about 1-2 cm long) pointing downwards in the plastic cover of the timing belt. When these two line up you should be able to see the timing marks in the inspection hole in the top of the gearbox casing on the flywheel - should be a plastic bung in there. The gearbox casing has a bit of casting that points down from the top when you look into the hole, it's good to check everything lines up but I've found the crank pulley is easier to set the timing on access wise. Put a blob of tippex or white paint on the marks and arrow and you'll be able to see it much more clearly with the timing light when the engine is running. The idle stabilisation valve will compensate for idle speed as you increase or decrease the base advance setting, failing that you can adjust the speed by turning the air bleed screw on the side of the throttle body. hope this helps, David.