richman711

Hi As title really. PM me with any details Cheers Kyle

Hi guys a vr6 would be nice but I think it would be to similar to what I already have, plus it's n/a. Civics are a major temptation other than being n/a and a bit chavy lol. E46 is a good shout.

Hi guys Well after only 9 months of owning my corrado g60 I think I will be passing it on and getting some thing more modern and reliable, I'll be sad to see it go but 60 miles a day have most engine related stuff so after fixing all that my enthusiasm for the old girl had sadly died, plus it's taking precious time away from my beetle lol. trouble is I want another good drivers car preferably sub 6k, I've thought about: civic type r ep3 Mk 1 leon cupra r Mk 5 golf gti what's every ones options? Cheers kyle

Hi John. Cheers again:) For some reason mine as a nke 6304 9aaec1, its steel caged but the c3 bearings I've seen before have always said c3 after the size. Not sure if I've been stung with inferior bearings. I suspected that was the case with the apex seals

Hi John. Sorry missed you last reply. no that charger isn't mine, mines still in I'm bits:( While I have you, could you confirm that the main pulley bearing is a 6304 and c3 rated? Took mine out and it's only c1. Also noticed the apex seals on the outlet have shrunk. Cheers Kyle

No problem, I certainly don't expect you to give away part of your trade on a public forum. Cheers for your help tho:) One thing I will drop in tho is can you supply rebuild kits?

Hi John. Yeah sorry I'm rushing my explanations a bit. I'll try be a bit clearer. It's Looking up now that I've got my head around its design. Basically with the the main shaft completely bare ( no key ways etc), the shaft can be slid in the bearing no problem with no lateral movement once in position. The drive end bearing ( although I don't think it's the correct fag bearing as I thought they had a plastic cage) is tight in the inlet housing so it would appear all I need is a rebuild kit. I'm yet to remove the drive end bearing but once I have then I can be sure. Cheers kyle

Cheers again John. Shafts out and there's not actually any signs of it spinning inside the bearing, it can be just slid through the bearing no problem tho. is the bearing not held tight on the sides of the inner race once all the pully is on and tight? Cheers

Not a problem, you will be the first person I contact when I need a bit of advice. Last night i noticed rust dust around the outer inlet seal, im wonfering if the bearing has been oil starved. One thing I will ask tho is how is the main shaft designed to be removed from the inlet, I belive there is a circlip behind the inner seal? Cheers kyle

Hi guys. John your opinion is more than welcome, and actually preferable. Thank you for the offer, at the moment I'm a bit stuck due to funding so I'm going to consider all my options before doing any thing tho, Tbh I'm not sure if I even want to use a g-lader again. And yes Riley the cap on mine is adjustable, the eyelet on top can be adjusted for length. I do have it let at its least tensioned setting tho as I was worried about too much belt tension Cheers kyle

Hi again guys Ok so I took the charger apart today to have a look at a possible cause. First I've noticed that the inlet inner oil seal has clearly been passing oil ( although I haven't noticed any smoke), the inlet bearing is also completely shot, nasty rumble to it:( One thing I am worried about is that with the main shaft still in the inlet side I can slide the shaft in and out about 5 mm, and if I lock the bearing I can spin the shaft inside the bearing. So guessing the bearing has lock at some point and now the main shaft is worn:((

Hi guys Does any one know what thread is on the banjo bolts at the charger end of the oil feed and return pipes? Think it's standard m10? Cheers Kyle

Hi John Cheers for the reply, I'm 100% sure that sadly the noise is from the g lader, and from the pulley end of the super charger. The altenator is only a week old but I did check it and is nice and quiet. Ah well that's puzzled me as to what's caused the failure then, I was suspicious of the tensioner but that was it. It does get driven pretty hard but has oil changes every 5 and all ways warmed up before I open her up. Guess I've been pretty unlucky:(

Hi guys After around 10k miles since its last rebuild I've started to notice a whine from the engine bay, now after a bit of prodding with a screw driver of my ear I've come to the conclusion it's the g lader, and the pulley side bearing is exactly where the noise is coming from. Guess this spells the near end of my g lader bearings? I suspect it's been caused by a over tighten belt, I run a 68 mm pulley with a standard belt as the car appears to have a tensionor cap? Cheers kyle

Bump, price drop now £100

Corby, Northamptonshire:)

falken 205/50/16 tyres Hi guys removed these from a set of alloys I got recently, good nearly new tyres with no cracks on side walls, no side wall damage and no repairs etc all with 6.5-7mm tread Looking for ?120 but im open to offers can upload pics if needes but im sure you all know what these look like lol List Date: 11/29/2014 For more info, click here to view the original listing: falken 205/50/16 tyres -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?120.00 -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: falken 205/50/16 tyres Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Hi im far from a expert but that makes me think two things: 1. Bad leak so system doesnt reach required pressure to stop ( presuming the pump is ment to cut out at a certian pressure) 2. Crap pump so it doesn't build enough pressure.

One thing I have just noticed is that although my rado is standard height as far as I know the wishbones are still flat rather than pointing down? Seems rather strange, and if it is already -40mm it rides so high still!

Spot on guys think ive decided on the koni dampers then, heard h&r and eibach mentioned at lot for springs, whats every ones preference?

Considering the car gets driven hard and a few track days are in the pipe line what would you guys recommend coilovers or lowering springs with koni shocks?

The basic opinion I keep seeing is if ypu cant afford the likes of kw coilovers or better then lowering springs and shocks are the a better buy, what im completly happy with as I only want to lower like 40mm as I hear thats the lowest I can go to retain handling, just wonder on the best set of springs to use?

Hi guys im looking to lower my corrado soon, I have a budget of 500, what tbh isnt going to gwt me a lot. im runnig 205/45/16 so cant lower much any way but my main focus is improving the handling while lowering the car. Im told no more than 40mm or the wishbones begin to point upwards and then the handling is effected. At this price range, i presume springs and shocks are the best to go for at this price range what brings me too.. koni TA dampers ( not sure the best place to buy these? ) H/r or eibach springs , heard mixed things about both but these seem to be the ones mentioned the most? Whats every ones opinions? P.s sorry for long post:) Kyle

Yeah I think im going to have to find one to listen to firsr, Ive heard a long life on a g60 and that was pretty loud too. A trait of the high back pressure a g60 has I guess. my main worry is that I think its a late hanger type exhaust:(

Ah I see what you mean, the pipe has loop in it where it goes over the axle so im guessing its the same as the mk 2. Yeah bit expensive sadly:( although I cant find any where cheaper