vr-man

Hi, Over xmas went to visit girlfriends parents, parked up, within half an hour someone had reversed into the offside wing of my lovely VR6. Sorted out all the insurance details no problem so I wont be facing any bills just hassle. Been to the local Direct Line approved bodyshop (Bristol Street Repairs, Kingsditch Trading Estate, Cheltenham) for an estimate. They seemed very busy with insurance work on all makes of car. The assessor said the wing ought to be replaced with a new one. Plus some repair needed to bumper, (total £700 ish). I'm worried that the new wing will start rusting in a few years, the rest of the car is fine apart from a bit of rust under the rear number plate where a previous owner got pranged and had a new panel put in. Can any one recommend a good bodyshop around Cheltenham/Bristol/Evesham area? Does any one have any experience of "Bristol Street" repairers? Thanks

I'm sure the part I need is the rear-cross member. I think it supports the engine and it definately has both the wishbones connected to it. It's where the wishbones attach that it tends to fail when undoing 10 year old bolts. Bix, What state is your subrame in? I'm guessing its on another corrado VR6 you have for breaking. What price would you want for it? I would come and give you a hand to take it off but I live over in Gloucestershire now. I guess there is always the possibility your subframe would suffer like mine did. If so I could still take the new Golf VR6 subfame option. Stealth are doing the work so I'm sure it would be done right.

Hi, My Corrado VR6 is currently having loads of work done to renew the bushes and suspension. During removal of the wishbones the subframe was damaged which I was warned would probably happen. Finding a new subrame is proving to be a bit of a problem. Does anyone know where I could get a new one or possibly 2nd hand in good cond. I've heard you can adapt the Golf VR6 subrame but I'm a bit wary. I wonder if easyjet fly to Wolfsburg!

Used a small wire brush on the contacts and sprayed in a little contact cleaner before reconnecting. Starts ok now.

Will try that next. Problem could simply be a dodgy connection into the immob. Wires all over the place at the moment. Will report tomorrow eve.

Hi, I'm having problems with my immobilizer again. The colder weather seems to cause it to misbehave. The problem is the engine cutting out after 1 second...stone dead. VAG-COM shows Code for "engine start blocked by immobilizer" and "key signal too low". Does anyone know the correct resistance for the reader coil. Mine shows 6.6ohms which seems reasonable for a coil. However surfing around i've seen values of 24ohms quoted for reader coils in VW tech stuff. Maybe mines starting to short out. cheers

Hi, Various screws and clips at the front of my engine bay are looking a bit grotty. Does anyone know where I can obtain new clips and screws identical to the ones which secure the top of the headlights to the engine bay. Clips I have seen in halfords and autoparts places are not the same design. I could go to the dealers but that seems a bit over the top. cheers vr-man.

Thanks for your suggestions. When the engine cuts out its instant as if all power and fuel is stopped. I havn't noticed if the charging and oil pressure lights stay on when it has cut out. Its starting ok at the moment so will note next time. Funny thing is I have disconnected the Reader coil to investigate and its running!! Thats why I thought maybe the VW immobilizer could be redundant in my system. I think connecting to VAG-COM is the way forward at the moment to see if the ECU is communicating to the VW immobilizer. A bad earth also sounds a possibility.

Hi, I've done lots of forum searching on this one. My VR6 will start properly for a few weeks then develop a starting fault. No matter how many times I start it or how much I rev I give it, the engine will fire up then die completely 1 second after firing up. Then a few days later all will be fine. It seems to be worse during the colder months. The posts I've read seem to suggest a faulty factory fitted immobilizer. So I did some investigation and this showed the VW immobilzer ( Reader Coil e.t.c. ) is either faulty or no longer a part of the immobilization system. The after-market alarm/immob system is ok as I've had it checked. I'm guessing that the after-market system immobilizer may have taken the place of the VW one, which would leave me with an engine sensor fault to sort out. I wonder if any one else has had a similar problem.

I had a problem with my light switch a few months back. Took it apart and the two legs which move the electric contacts into position had broken. Over time heat from one of the LED's had caused the plastic to become brittle. Got a sheet of ABS plastic and used a couple of pieces to glue the plastic legs back on. I used a bottle of liquid glue from a model shop (Ambroid Pro Weld). Its stronger than the original now.

Thanks for your suggestions. Apologies for not replying sooner, away from the PC a lot at the mo. The socket for connecting to VAG-COM to is in the correct place, mounted directly in front of the gearstick linkages. I didn't need to disturb it thankfully when removing the carpets etc. The wires to the dangling connector dont appear to be the same colour as those going to the VAG-COM socket. But their function could be related I guess as they are close by. Will investigate with a multimeter to see if they are connected to the VAG-COM wires (or to any other car electrics) . My guess is its probably wires for some optional extra. The fact that the wires are not connected to anything does not seem to affect the running of the car or the alarm system. Would like to know for sure they of no importance though before putting the consoles back in, so might have a visit to the nearest garage familiar with Corrados.

Hi Everyone, Does anyone know what this connector and the three wires are for. Many months ago I took the carpet up and most of the plastic trim and centre console to sort out a water leak. Now I'm putting it all back together and cannot remember whether this originally had a purpose. Now it is just dangling about behind the storage hole near the gear stick. There are two connectors attached to the larger connector block. One connector has a grey/white wire and a yellow wire, the other has just one grey/white wire. Any ideas?[/img]

I wonder if anyone has successfully re-used the ABS rotor cages when fitting new rear brake discs. I get the feeling the consensus is to fit new ones but I see no reason not to have a go and re-use them. I haven't tried yet to remove the old ones but I'm guessing it shouldn't be too difficult to remove them.

The bolts which screw into the end of the guide pins do have a band of blue stuff on the threads. They are supplied with the new brake pad set with it applied already. The 2 bolts which fix each caliper carrier / bracket to the hub ( part no. N0199123 ) don't appear to have any substance applied to them. I've got a replacment set from VW for the ones I virtually destroyed getting them out. Possibly there is some clear locking fluid on the threads already??

Hi All, I'm currently replacing the rear discs, pads, bearings on my VR6. As expected the Caliper Carrier bolts have been a sod to remove - 3 out, 1 left to go. I have read lots of posts on the subject of these bolts and I intended to put some copper grease on the threads of the new bolts during re-assembly to make any future dismantling easier. However, I have also read a post which said the Caliper Carrier bolts supplied by VW are pre-loctited. This makes me think to grease them is a bad idea......wouldn't want my rear brakes falling off :oops: Maybe its better to just cover the allen head with waxoyl after assembly, at least then the hex tool can locate properly in the bolt head in case I need to strip it down again. Does anyone know what is correct Cheers.