Dancing Fish

Well here is the article.... http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/ Whaddya think now?

I'm from Hove in East Sussex, which is a very nice place. I have added to my info (see over there, on the left)(Actually, it appears it didnt work - maybe i have to log out). I have also discovered the benefits of searching for actual brand names rather than car makes (e.g. OZ wheels, rather than VW wheels) on ebay. You actually get something worth looking at. I read an interesting article on the width of tyres not actually improving grip due to the laws of physics. But rather wider tyres tend to be softer compounds thus this is why they seem more grippy. I'm not sure how this works exactly, surely at some point the fact that your tyres are only 5mm wide means you get less grip, or maybe it is actually the same grip, but you just roll easier??? And having said all the above, my C is hardly the comfiest car in the world. Perhaps maintaining the 15s would be better. The handling could probably be improved anyway through the new ball joints or something. Yet, having said this, let's be honest - I have a C because it looks cool. So what is the point on trying to compromise? Cool all the way????

Hi Peeps, My 16v has currently got the Sebrings on it and I fancy a change. Personally, I like 5 or 6 spokers, but that is essentially irrelevant here. My question is what is there to know about alloys? Why do some cost more? How much of the cost is down to properties of the wheel, and how much would be down to paying for the name on something like BBS, OZ etc? There doesnt appear to be much specification information on wheels I have seen on websites etc. Is it really just a case of picking some you think look pretty? I would guess that you would want the lightest wheels possible without compromising on strength. In which case, fewer spoked alloys would need to be stronger alloy and thus more expensive. However, this isnt always the case. Probably due to the fact they are easy to manufacture. And what of all these wheels on ebay that are brand new 'buy nowers'. Are these wheels fuctionally worse - i.e., are they heavy, badly finished etc, or are they actually a good buy? Finally, I am not sure whether to look at 15s or 16s. Personally, i wouldnt want to go down the 17 route. I think 16s look better, but the car was built with 15s, and these would presumably be lighter, though given the need to maintain the RR this would be at least partially offset by extra tyre weight would it not? So is there really any performance advantage of 15s and if so from where? Additionally, whilst I dont like my Sebrings, the tyres are good condition 185/55s. I could transfer these over thus saving money if i just bought some rims. This would help since i could actually spend more money on the car making it go properly rather than just look nice! Your thoughts would be much appreciated. Kind Regards Dancing Fish.

Are you driving my car when Im not looking? Seriously though. I have had exactly the same problem. Sometimes you just have to yank that bad boy out! My gear stick is original.

Hi All, I have a 1.816v with standard seats. I believe the seats are a bit soft and are thus giving me some back jip. Does anyone else think this, and is there anything i can do, such as putting stuff in, rather than on, the seats?? Thanks in advance for your helpful advice, DF.

Hi All, The link below provides a rather comprehensive account on tyres and wheels and their relationship including rolling radius. I learnt a lot. Be warned though, there is a fair amount of physics in it! http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/ df.

Does that mean it is a particular bulb then???

Hi All, Discovered last night my luggage compartment light has fallen off and the bulb has disappeared. Can someone please advise what the bulb is and where i can get it - hopefully halfords. Thanks muchly DF.

The answer: 1. Find someone who knows about Corrado's (I chose John Mitchell 16VG60). 2. Get them to look at your car, and advise replacements. 3. Pay them to do it whilst you do things you are good at! I changed: Rear Bushes Front and Rear Shocks and Springs (to Boge suspension kit) Top Mounts and Bump Stops. Other knackered suspension bits. The car is completely different. Not only is it safe, and is also fun to drive!!!!!! Carazy! The kit also lowered the car slightly. I presume this will have helped slightly with the centre of gravity, but it also improved the look. It is a standard 1.8 16v with sebrings. FYI John is a really nice guy and knows his stuff big time. He also has lots of cool toys only proper mechanics have - like the rear bushes tool thing. He comes recommended. Moral of the story - Go get your bushes sorted, especially if they are originals like mine. And dont even bother trying this unless you know what you are doing. Stick to what you are good at and pay others to do what they are good at. A good mechanic like John will also advise you well about the general running and condition of your car. Service - that is what it is all about!! Cheers guys DF.

24yrs old. 3 year no claims. hove. 1991 1.8 16v £780 fully comp. Elephant.co.uk I thought pretty good, especially since some people wouldnt even insure me since i wasnt 25!

I thought about the brakes. If the right rear is rubbing or harder than the left, the left will go faster yes, thus sending it out. I think the sensible thing since i am no mechanic, is to take it somewhere. It needs a proper seeing to anyway.

Checked the tyre pressures on my 1.8 16v. Presuming the gauge works properly, the rears were 2.7 (bit high but okay yes?). Manual says about 2.3. The fronts were about 4, as opposed to the manuals 2.7!!!!! Overinflation wouldnt make the back step out though would it? The condition of the tyres is good.

Hi All, When cornering, i have found the rear of my C slides like buggery rather than going in the direction i want it to. In particular, when breaking and cornering right, the left rear feels like it is doing its own thing and trying to overtake the front end! It is not a fun experience. I have no idea why it is doing this. A friend of mine said the rear of his C used to slide out a lot. Then it did and he wrote it off. This isnt normal is it???? I used to have a Rover 214sei and that cornered like on rails. My C is leagues behind it, which surely shouldnt be the case?? I have no idea what the problem is? Suspension, alignment, brakes?? Anybody got any ideas? DF.

I taped up that black lead cos i didnt know what it was. Aerial amplifier power lead you say? Sounds quite important then! What can i attach it to coming out of my stereo, some sort of power out I presume? How about just attaching it to the battery lead? If I put 12v through it will i be able to pick uk Utah FM?!

Hello, The radio signal i get in my C is pants. Is this normal for a C? On the presumtion it is not, i would have to replace the aerial and leads yes? Ideally, the signal would be sooooooooo strong i could pick up Jazz FM in brighton! What is the easiest way to do this. From knowing the position of the aerial (the roof at the back) it will probably be a nightmare no? Isnt it cool how saying either yes or no, which are opposites, at the end of the sentence makes no difference at all!!! DF.

That top right hand side area was made for collecting leaves. It was like Narnia up there. With regard paint. Given that someone who previously owned it seems to have been colourblind (using near black on green pearl), i wasnt too bothered about getting the VW paint. I simply took it down halfords, parked it in the carpark and got 3 of the nearest ones and tried them out on a bit of tape on the car. Perfect match was some Vauxhall jobby. I need to know if i can take the plastic laquer coating off the wheels and what to do it with - i.e., not a wire brush i presume. And presumably i need to replace it, since otherwise it wouldnt have been there??!!

It is by no means a mint example. Those pictures were taken after I had just spent a few hours cleaning it. The alloys are a bit knackered - in need of a refurb. There seems to be some kind of plasticy covering on them which has come off in some areas - any ideas about this and what to do about it. The main problem is the right front wheel arch has some rust where it is badly designed and mud had collected under the sill, eventually causing it to rust. In my opinion, it seems really high, and looks a bit pants from the side, probably because of the height and the dodgy, though original alloys. And when you open up the bonnet!!! Well, let's just say i spent about 20 mins hoovering out the leaves! I think something had been living in there! It dont look pretty. I thought about a steam clean but dont wanna mess up the electrics. However, the engine seems essentially sound, and it only has 84k, and it didnt cost much, and it does 35mpg on my trips to work(tho at a mind numbing 75 all the way). And anyway, who cares, cos its a C and i love it! appreciate the originality of the car, but it is not a mint example, so i wont be messing it up. If I could refurb the current alloys for no money, perhaps lower it a bit and give it a good service, that would be a start, no???

Hi All, I have recently acquired a Corrado for not much wonga, but it thus obviously needs some lurvin. Unfortunately, I have no money! However, money can always be found somewhere! I love my new C, but it doesnt look that cool, not compared to most of you guys'. Personally, I think it needs some new wheels and probably lowering, and im not too keen on the lights, but no point changing it all at once. Can you advise your opinions, including what wheels look best, and where i can get some cheapish. Also, what size wheels, and are there certain things I have to check for to make sure they fit etc. And, as if i'm not sounding stupid enough all ready, how do you lower it?! Sorry! I am a massive beginner! Here's my sleeping beauty.......

Hi All, Have recently bought a C and have just moved my Alpine stereo over from my old car. The problem is that there didnt appear to be a 12v ignition lead that only delivers power when the ignition is on. Thus, i had to route both the ignition feed and the battery feed from my Alpine unit through to the battery line (which i think is red) coming out of my C. There were two other lines coming out that i didnt use, but neither had a 12v current at any time including under ignition. I'd of course prefer to use an ignition line since i have to remember to turn the thing off. Does anyone know if there is an 12v ignition lead on the C? I have a 1992 1.8 16v. Thanks DF.