tonylam

cmalyan. as described, this was the same symptoms. I thought is was the battery, thought it was the immobiliser, the ecu. Have you tried unplugging the ignition switch connector and trying it manually using a screwdriver. it was this that revealed the fault that i had. Hope this helps Tony

Update ..... I removed the barrel and the pin holding the, let's call it the ignition switch spigot. Now that it's all clearly visable I notice a bit of wear on the casting. I put the spigot into the switch and there is some play, probably 5 degree. A bit if fettling and that is reduced. And the switch is finally making contact at ignition. Result Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Fixing the seal seemed fairly straight forward once I worked out how the release the top section. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Think I have sorted this. Fendervg, the foliage seal was sorted and all now appears dry. There was also a.leak on the driver side. I found the grommet around the hood release was not fully seated. Hose test seems to suggest that's that. Also popped on a carbon scuttle cover to neaten the area off. Tony Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Heres a challenging one for you all. Last night i went out to the car and .... Daamn. no start. Not like last time though when it was an ECU thing. All the light come on. key turns as it did 20 mins earlier. but when turning to position 3 to start the car all the light go out. everything. began to diagnose it today and initial options were 1. the immobiliser/Cobra Alarm 2. a fuse 3. the ignition switch 4. gremlins Immobiliser/alarm checked out as OK all fuses were good. even the starter 30amp big one i tried my attention to the ignition and began running a test lamp from the connections at the back of the socket. when probing the red/black feed to the starter relay i turn the key.... no power. Ahhhhh i think. i prob a little more just incase i don't have a connection and still no power. then whilst poking around in that connector i try again and the engine turns over and the engine bursts into life. ah ha..... its the ignition switch..... quick call to europarts and the replacement with is in my hands. I get back to the car and try the new switch in the connector block. quick turn with a flat blade screwdriver and i feel like i am in 'gone in 60 seconds' and the corrode fires into life. Now for the disassembly of the steering column. aprox 1 hour later and the new switch is being screwed into place and the ignition assembly is refitted. Feeling well pleased with myself i decide to give is a quick test. Insert the key and ........ Nothing.... exactly the same as previous. agin..... nothing. again..... and still nothing. What The f..... i take is apart again and remove the switch. i connect the block direct to the switch and turn to my screwdriver.... instant start up..... I try with the old ignition switch and car is running like a good one. put is all back in the ignition assembly and .... nothing. Its like the key isn't turning the last 3 degrees to create a circuit. Any ideas? yes i know i can go out and buy another but really........ has anyone experienced this before and is there a fix??

ok Pete I'll join the owners at the event. i've pm'd you Tony

I will be coming along to my first VW event but not to display. not yet anyway. I got my 93 vr6 a month ago from having been stood for 5 years. Not running. It got its MOT yesterday and is now on the road. Look forward to meeting you on the stand. Tony

Probably a final entry on this one. (i am sure i will be trawling the forum and making further posts of other topics) The corrode had its MOT test yesterday and passed. super pleased. engine performed well. Its a lot smoother and quieter than i thought it would be. It has a K&N fitted so induction sound is interesting at times and i was pleasantly surprised to see the MFI MPG figures hit 32.1MPG Can i thank you all for your help with this. hopefully speak to you on other matters. thanks Tony

I have just pulled this from vwvortex.com EVALUATION OF TEST RESULTS According to the MKIV Bentley manual, the compression specifications for the 12v VR6 engine are as follows (the values you obtain during your test will depend on both the condition of the engine and the accuracy of the pressure gauge used): - new ------------------------------------------------------ 10 to 13 bar (147-191 psi) - wear limit ------------------------------------------------ 7.5 bar (110 psi) - maximum difference between cylinders ------------------ 3 bar (44 psi) Here's a quote from the MKIV Bentley manual (page 15d-2) which talks about compression values which are lower than spec ... "Low compression suggests poorly sealed combustion chambers. Compression pressures which are relatively even but below specifications indicate worn piston rings and/or cylinder walls. Low but erratic values tend to indicate valve leakage. Dramatic differences, such as good values in some cylinders and very low values in one or two cylinders are the sign of a localized failure, such as a burnt valve or a failed cylinder head gasket." From past experience of racing if you have a significant drop in pressure and the only major symptom is burning oil it points to 1. valve related. poor seating combined with a poor valve seal 2. cylinder related. poor seal between cylinder rings and the cylinder wall. if this has come on suddenly as you say i may be considering a failed ring. it does seem like a general freshen up may be in order. it is so much easier on my lads MX Bike though. hope this helps tony

how much of this is compounded by the partial scuttle. I have looked at many images of this area and there only ever seems to be a scuttle piece over the air intake. it doesn't even fully cover the ECU. is this right or are their pieces missing?

Hi Everyone I have read many of the threads on the forum relating to leaks. I may have another challenge for the experienced members. I have definitely getting rainwater into the corrado. I have removed the carpets etc to find the source of the leak. Access is best on the passenger side but i fear the leak is not limited to the passenger side as is feels a little damp in the drivers side. not wet but damp. lying on my back with my head under the dash (this is much more uncomfortable then i remember) i can see what i believe to be the underside of the scuttle panel where the blower intake is situated. from the image below there is a seam which is leaking. Thing is i cannot see the seam from the engine bay. and how the hell is water getting to that. I note that the area around the blower intake is actually dry and does not appear to be leaking although the seam does sit wishing the area so the water could be tracking from that along the seam???? I don't now [ATTACH=CONFIG]84208[/ATTACH] Moving a little more towards the wing/A piller i can see what i believe to be the sunroof drains (yellow tubes) this area is also wet 1. Any advice on how the water is gaining access? 2. How do i stop it? Thanks everyone Tony

Hi Easy pops. thanks for the insight. i will try the prise the rubber out and see what we can see. Cheers Tony

Hi All. I am looking the remove the rear window in my 93 VR6. The glass is held in by a rubber which is in very good nick. However as its been stood for the past 5 years there is a small hole in the left side approx site of a twenty pence coin. I want to remove the window then tig a small plate in to resolve the issue then refit the original rubber and glass. Any one with some instruction on how to go about it. I have seen the glass it put back by the string in the channel method but what about removal. Is this done from the inside. Do i pry the rubber away from the glass or the body work? start at a corner and work up/down a side first or across the bottom/Top first? Any advice gratefully received. Thanks Tony

Hi everyone. i will be putting a non return valve os the fuel line, thanks for the tip. The good news is she lives. I replaced the ECU. i had been turning the motor over on the key for the past week whilst trying various options so i could see oil at the head. I connected the replacement ECU and with fingers crossed turned the key. she started on the key with me outside of the car. Fabulous She was a bit tappetty at first. Well 5 years of nothing will do that. I let her idle till the motor warmed up and the oil found its way to the hydraulic followers but she has settled down well and is purring. Well pleased as soon as i work out why i cannot post some images ill get some uploaded thanks for the input. tony

found this on another forum The injector pulse is a ground and not + voltage. The injector harness should have a +12 constant voltage. If I recall correctly, the ECU ground which pulses has resistance to a chassis ground and you may get 4.8 volts by not checking to an ecu ground instead of abattery ground.. been so long since I worked at audi that I don't remember all of the elsa specs on checking the computer. Do check the cam speed sensor and make sure it too is getting its signal to the ECU. also the residual pressure is dropping rather quickly. drops to zero after approx 5 mins. no obvious leaks. do the residual pressure regulators breakdown?? leak fuel back