Northendroid

Brought the GTI for a pre-safety today, they failed the wheels (which I was for warn when I booked the appointment) the Ontario Ministry of Transportation is cracking down on car with wheel poke and fender clearance (lowered). I've borrow a set of 15" wheels get by this fail, also need to replace outer tie rod end on passenger side, rear license plate light, wiper blades, rear rotor and pads and right front hose support bracket needs to be secured. All parts are ordered and some on there way. Corrado update: Got the pistons 4 clearance issue with oil squirter solved, oil pump, oil pan, water pump and cylinder head installed.

Had to fix the horn in the GTI for upcoming safety it turn be being steering wheel clock spring contacts, was full of dirt and grime no contact was being made. Cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner tweaked the contact upper a bit. all works: Next is getting ABS sensors to clear the warning light. Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3A0-907-379.lbl Part No: 3A0 907 379 E Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 20 GI V00 Coding: 03704 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 2C572FADDC73802165-4A84 2 Faults Found:

So got the wheels on the MK3 going to need to do some fine tuning to eliminate the rubbing on large bumps. :D But REALLY like the look it give the MK3. Had to use the spacer/wheel adapters 5 x100 - 5 x112.

Thanks, I agree they'd look nice on the Corrado but I'm still looking at doing a custom three piece with a set of Sebrings

Picked up the GTI today in Levis, Quebec, was a little anxious about driving a 19yrs old car that I haven't maintained 365 km's, did the pre trip check, tire pressure, oil, powered steering,coolant levels. Fuel it with 91 Octane and went for it, really pleased with the car, no issues on it's first trip. Some general fixes are required to pass the safety, wiper blades, horn doesn't work, CEL was told it was passenger rear ABS sensor, needs wheel alignment and new tires (that's covered). Nail down some rattles, as previously mentioned the long throw in the shifter got to go. Next couple days will be going through it making a parts list. Some body molding need attending to and some require replacement. Swing by body shop to see what can be done about the rust spots. I do like the VR6 exhaust note it is SWEET!

Picked up some 3-Piece Mille Miglia MM300 17x8 and 8.5, 5x100 - 5x112 adapters 15mm/20mm for the MK3 Yokohama S-Drives, traded the Bentley's with a Vortex member in my area.

Got the Corrado a buddy :D Going to drive this until I get the Corrado on the road. 1998 GTI VR6 not perfect but nice solid car, two small rust spot one by the driver's mirror the other on the hood from rock chip, everything else is rust free. Done recently rotors and pads, wheel bearings, ball joints, poly bushing on all but strut towers those are TT's, serpentine belt/tensioner, O2 sensor, new windshield, window regulator, motor mounts, water pump, timing chain. Everything electrical work with the exception of the cruise control. Needs fluids service, new wheels/tires, rear passenger side ABS sensor. Tranny is good no grinding but long throws so that will need attention, motor 242,000 kms but runs strong, came with ST Coilovers, 25mm sway bar. Interior is mint no tears. It was originally a BC (British Columbia) car so didn't see much snow, it's been well maintained/regular services.

I purchased a cheap bench top sandblaster and some glass bead media. Not 100% where I want it but in time I'll get the parts looking almost new. Two halves of the G-lader:

Picked up some the parts today from INA for my G-lader rebuild, seals, bearing, Apex strips, lube. Picked up the G-lader oil return line, banjo fittings, custom hose adapter from 8mm bolt to AN-2 Custom adapter will fit into where I've drilled through the block for the G-lader oil return

Yeah you bet if they were looking for a way get more money I think it's going to backfire on them, I've already downloaded my pictures and transferred them to Flickr and closed my account. They ask why you're closing the account and told to go screw themselves that I'd rebuild my threads before I'd give them a dime. It suck but I'm not being held hostage and have to pay a $400 ransom to post my pictures. That is just bad business!

Looks like Photobucket has screwed up a lot of forums they want $400.00 a year to host now :bonk: F**K you! Time for new thread! Update: switch all my pics to Imgur and fixed the thread

The oil squirter clearance issue in piston #4 is because it sits lower the the other three cylinders. Drill 8mm hole through the block for oil return of the Gladder

So got the conrods back from the machine shop today, started with piston 4 this time around since that one had the issue of the piston hitting the impulse wheel. Well the impulse wheel is out but now the piston is hitting the oil squirter. So removed the crankshaft and measured what I need to clear the oil squirter measurement is 4.63mm.

Installed new coolant flanges, new "O" rings, clips and cleaned up the temp sensors. Cleaned up the fuel rail, injectors and bracketing.Finished painting the valve cover and put it all back together ready to install on the block. Temp sensors corrosion removed:

Still waiting for the Conrod to get back from machine shop so prepped a bunch of parts for paint yesterday and today got the cylinder head prepped and painted. Using my wind driven side draft paint booth: My drying area: Cylinder head primed two coats of VHT etching primer, tried VHT Aluminum but wasn't a big fan of how it looked, so doing two coats of VHT Titanium Silver Blue then two coats of VHT clear coat. Primered: Yesterday took the alternator apart to see if it was worth rebuilding, ordered new bearing, voltage regulator and slip rings for Also ordered two idler pulley from the UK was the cheapest I could find.

Thanks again for the parts number will look into it availability.

Thanks for the info got a new 1.8T crank damper/pulley lined up from iAbed Industries here in Canada only an hour away from my home town. He's also going to fabricate a new P/S pulley.Crank pulley, IM shaft pulley, timing belt tensioner and 8V head/cam pulley are transferred from the PG block. Needed to get the IM pulley modified as mentioned a few post up.

Dropped off the conrods and ARP bolt at the machine shop to re-size. Got the impulse wheel removed and everything retorqued. Got the stripped allen bolt loose on last days off but had looked at the harmonic balancer, like I expected 25yrs old rubber is cracked so be replacing that as well. Any suggestions? Fluidampr?

Ordered main bearing bolts. M10x65 Part# N10263801 and ARP conrod bolts. Will also need to get the big end of the conrod re-hone as per ARP instructions:

More progress on the Rado. Yesterday I built a ghetto engine lift out of 2 x4, 2 x6 with a 1 ton cable puller :cuckoo: to swap out the old PG block with the new AEB block on the engine stand, while I had the AEB block on the lift installed the flywheel and used my flywheel lock tool and got the AEB crank bolt loose. Safely on the engine stand without hurting myself or others LOL! Had a stripped allen bolt that holds the harmonic pulley/power steering pump pulley to the crank pulley, bolt the assembly onto the AEB block, drove a torxs bit into it held back the crankshaft at the opposite end and was able to break away the bolt :dance: Installed the pistons into the AEB block: All went well till I got to piston#4, notice the rod bearing cap was fitting right when I snug up the bolts prior to checking bearing clearance. Remove the piston only to find the skirt on the opposite side of the oil squirters now has a chip broken off. The PG block doesn't have an impulse wheel so I know need to remove the crankshaft, impulse wheel and re-install everything. I'll be looking for another stock 81mm PG piston and some new cap bolts as well. Another hiccup in the hybrid build :D

Prepped,painted 02A shift tower and the shift cable support bracket, install new bushings, slider and tower shaft seal.

Yes no better time while the engine out and have easy access to the tunnel.

More parts arrived for the Corrado: Prothane Bushing Kit (new still in box from Vortex Member) Center Caps for the Sebring Wheels Diesel Geek - MK4 Shifter, Side to Side Bushings, Side to Side Super Slider Phenix Engineering - MK4 Shifter Bracket Bushings Piston Ring Gap tool - Can start putting internals back together :D

Removed the intermittent shaft pulley from the PG block to test fit onto the AEB block, turn out that the PG pulley needs machining to add a keyway since the intermittent of the AEB pulley has the keyway built into the pulley. All part of a hybrid build. PG on the left - AEB on the right Close up of the AEB pulley AEB intermittent shaft keyway is cut right thru the shaft.

Parts came in today just waiting on piston ring gap tool :D