Northendroid

Pick up the Neuspeed Strut Bar these were made for the VR6 but it will clear the G60 intake manifold with a bit of tweaking.:D

Picked up a second 02A tranny from a 16V Passat for the 20V. build, has a better gear ratio then the stock tranny. Bonus got a newer starter (which I needed) and another clutch with on 6,000 KM on it. The drawback was it was an 16hrs road trip to go get it in Windsor, Ontario.

Buddy of mine offered me a set of 15" x 6" Sebrings at my favourite price (free LOL), I just got to get them from one end to the country to the other though. Looking to do a custom lip to them: Also going to need center caps.

Mk4 Shifter and transmission shifter tower. Bit of clean and lubrication and should be good to go. Perfect time to do this while the engine out. :D Got the timing pulley cleaned and painted, just need to do the same to the intermittent shaft pulley. Got the BBM 268/260 camshaft changed out and the FPR. Also put the chipped ECU back in the car.

Thank you!

Picked these up tonight from an Ottawa VDubbing forum member, Eibach Pro-Kit

Not pleased on how it turned out, stripping it and starting over minus the wrinkle paint.

Bought an AWU intake manifold for my AEB 1.8L 20V. G60 build, it came with phenolic transition gasket but was missing the small port metal gasket is #058129717D the correct part number? Stripped: Prepped: Baking in the Oven :thumbleft:

Thanks mate for the info!

Stu do you have a part# for the windshield washer fluid tank you used in the relocation?

Like the reroute through chassis idea, did you eliminate cruise control? I have no issues with redoing or lengthening wires, if done properly it won't be an issue. Can't remember if you replaced the heater core while you had the dash out? Eventually when the 1.8L 20V G60 is built I'm going with a MegasquirtII management system, a whole new megasquirt harness and will strip away the ECU wires from the OEM harness. The idea is to rebuild the 1.8L 8V G60 with the first AEB block so I can get the car on the road sooner. Then concentrate on the 20V. build. LOL just re-looked at your picture of the bay, keep forgetting this is right hand drive car. :bonk: You guys drive on the correct side of the road right!

It had been a while since I've gone thru your build thread, went thru it again and love what you did to engine bay, really cleans it up. Also love your choice of wheel! Where did you relocate the fuse box?

Cool I'll take a look.

Yeah I know mine will be it first year come summer, got lots of prep and painting of engine parts coming up this summer before even ordering engine rebuild parts so I can keep moving forward. Next purchase is a media blaster (soda and glass bead) and HVLP spray gun. Oh and forgot to post picked up Mocal oil filter sandwich and fittings, also used oil cooler rad and lines.You still running the stock G60 intercooler or FMIC?

Yes I'd love to have the money to get everything I need but at least it's moving forward a few pieces at a time.

Bit of an update,clean carbon on the other three pistons, took the G-lader apart no play in the bearings,cleaning the internal surfaces and inspected for damage and hairline cracks, all good :D Heading to my local bearing shop and see if I can source the following for G-Lader rebuild. I'd rather start fresh and know what been replaced in the G-lader. Viton Seals: 1 x NAK TCY 20.35.7V 1 x NAK TBGV 30.52.6V 1 x NAK TGR 30.45.6V 2 x NAK TGH1 30.42.5.5/6V Bearings: 1 x F-A-G NU202E M1A Outlet Port 1 x F-A-G 6003 2Z C3 Front Intermittent Shaft 1 x F-A-G 6002C 2HRS C3 Rear Intermittent Shaft 1 x F-A-G 6304 C3 Inlet Port 1 x Torrington 10 689A Displacer 1 x F-A-G 310 74336 (small bearing on displacer) Will follow up with availability and pricing. Found a MK1 TT AWU intake manifold for the 1.8L 20V G60 build. Guy also had the phenolic intake manifold transition spacer. Will need blasting and repaint: Next item to find is a OBD-1 ABA throttle body.

Started cleaning the internals to be swapped into the brand new AEB block for the Corrado. Soak the pistons in Berryman Carburetor & Parts Cleaner for 24hrs carbon wiped right off, re-soaked for another 24hrs, all piston ring grooves are squeaky clean. Top of the piston not perfect but lot better than what I started with

Yeah I know, I'm amazed it still ran.

Took the engine apart today to see why it was knocking [video=youtube_share;0FBRKljurzo]https://youtu.be/0FBRKljurzo Bearing is MIA: Crankshaft is toast, it also has a tight spot when spun: Bearing from cylinder 2 & 1

Thanks odub! The back of the rear G60 support bracket machined flat and a 5mm aluminum plate welded to the back of it: [ Thanks to sdezego for photo! Then it will fit like this, a hose is ran to the G-ladder return for additional lubrication of the G60: [Thanks to sdezego for photo!

Hi folks: Some of the info has already been posted in another thread but I thought I'd start an engine build thread should someone like to try this hybrid build. 1991 Corrado PG block 1.8L 8V G60, little history car sat for four years ran but has an engine knock, oil light on, makes no power. Reading through previous owners paperwork two items come to light one is the car is bored to 83mm and the second is it went through a lot of head gaskets. Was going to rebuild the PG engine until I came across an brand new AEB block with crank and intermittent shaft installed. Was cheaper buying this block than it would have been to do the PG block re-work. AEB blocks are used in Passats and Audi B5 A4 the early AEB is a 056 with an external water pump while the later model is an 06A which has an internal water pump.These are 056 with external water pump like the PG block. Will be using stock 81mm pistons with new rings, stock conrods bolt up to the AEB crank conrod journals: Here is a list of mods that need to be done to the block to work with the PG 8V head and G-Ladder: Biggest mod is the rear support bracket of the G-Ladder requires a 5mm aluminum plate welded to it, machined to the shape of the crank vent port and a port tapped for a #10AN fitting which will be routed to the the G-Ladder return. This will supply additional lubrication to the supercharger. Rear G-Ladder support bracket: ] Modified to fit in the area: Knock Sensor Location: Drill thru block and tap this existing bolt hole to accept the G-Ladder oil return Install a frost plug: Install crank position sensor (not used - only fills the hole): An AEG head gasket is used with the stock 8V head, the three rear oil journals will be blocked when using this gasket: Purchased BBM Stage 4 chipped ECU, 3.5 bar FPR, 268/260 cam, 65mm pulley The intermittent shaft gear is the same pitch as the PG distributor: The distributor and oil pump must match, PG distributor gear/oil pump have a slotted setup, while the AEB setup has a spline gear and oil pump: PG distributor gear and oil pump slotted shaft AEB spline gear :

Pick up my parts in Ottawa today, two AEB block, DRS oil pan, AEB valve cover, header for the AEB head. He also has a brand new AEB head that I'm try to work a deal on. One of the blocks is going to be used to replace the PG block all of the internals piston, conrods, oil pump and distributor fit on the AEB block, a few mods are required for the g-lader oil return, g-ladder mounting bracket needs custom plate, turbo oil supply blocked and a AEG head gasket to fit the 8V head to the block, head gasket also seals off three oil journals that aren't used with this head. Second block for a 1.8L 20V G60 build.

Nice! I'm keeping the G60 just for the uniqueness of the supercharger, so will be rebuilding it regularly since I'll be running a 68mm pulley. Are you going to keep the Digi 1 or standalone?

Also found in the same area as the AEB head, a BBM Stage 4 chip, FPR, 265/260 cam for the PG rebuild. So well worth the trip

've found a used AEB head for cheap for my 1.8L 20V G60 build, so going to have a look at it next Sunday when I get back from work. Only draw back it's a 5hr drive from home, but if it works out be worth the drive. Planning on rebuilding it since price is right, seller sent some pics: