briggy

Didn't mean to sound paranoid, just adding to the discussion on how long things like the cam chain last. Cheers, Bryan

Cheers folks. I've still got a complete dealer history (receipts only, no book) at 110,000 miles so I'm gonna keep it up every 10,000 miles or 12 months. After what's been said, I'll start doing an oil change myself half way between services. I'm still on the original clutch, timing chain & tensioner, oil pump etc. Even the springs & shocks only got done because I wanted it lowered. Is that a sign of a well looked after car or have I been lucky & it's just a matter of time? Bryan.

Guys, What's the recommended service interval on a VR6? The Bentley manual says 15,000 miles (with oil change at 7,500), but my old Golf VR6 owner's manual said 10,000 miles. Which is it? Cheers, Bryan

Yip, disconnecting the lighter socket has worked. Replacing it is one of those jobs that'll be done "eventually". Cheers, Bryan

Hi, A couple of months ago, I tried to charge my mobile phone in the car. I got a nice crackling noise and the sunroof & internal light stopped working. This was tracked down to fuse 21 - but not by me. This was replaced and the sunroof and lights worked fine. I didn't try the mobile again. I recently got a different phone with a different charger and the same thing has happened again. This time, as soon as I put the fuse in, it blows instantly. No, the phone isn't still connected! Since the first episode, I've had a Cobra alarm / immob fitted. Now that the fuse has blown, I can't lock the car, otherwise my alarm beeps for a few seconds, then sounds fully (i.e goes off - or on, depending on your point of view!) First of all, is 15A the correct fuse? Secondly, why is it that the fuse blows even when nothing is being used? I guess it related to the new alarm, but that then poses the question of why did it not blow before I plugged the phone in? Any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers, Bryan

Are Koni's the adjustable ones?

Just been quoted H+R springs and Boge Turbo Gas dampers for £469 inc vat and fitting from Stealth. Anyone else using this set up?

I paid £29.49 ex VAT for the bearing and £67.50 ex VAT labour last time I had mine done.

Are Corrado doors interchangeable? In particular, does the driver's door on a G60 fit the VR6? Cheers, Briggy

I've taken my VR6 into the local VW specialist (not dealer) to have a look at why the car leans to one side. Nothing has broken, but the springs have weakened causing it to lean. The car's done 108,000 miles so not too much of surprise. They've suggested that I get it lowered (which I agree with, as I've always though the standard set up looks odd that high) and have given me a cuple of options. Lowering springs (can't remember the cost) or a full Sachs sports kit at £280 + VAT + labour. Questions : Is that a good price? Is that a good option? How will it affect the handling? Less understeer? Is handling in the wet governed more by tyres than the suspension? I'll probably never take it on a track so don't need anything too severe. I don't want the ride to be too harsh, but I want to see a difference from the standard setup but don't really know what to expect. Cheers.

Thanks for that. I had a bit of trouble downloading it, but it confirms that it's NOT the right part. Cheers, Briggy

Is there anywhere with a comprehensive list of part numbers? The reason I ask is that my starter motor has developed that horrible noise after the engine has started so I want it replaced. There's a starter motor on eBay with the part number 02A 911 023TX but the guy doesn't know if this is the right one for my car (1995 M reg VR6). Can anyone confirm? Cheers, Briggy

I often get the same noise when setting off. It's been like that for the last 7000 miles and isn't getting worse. No sign of clutch slipping. Is this something I should live with or can it damage anything else? Cheers, Briggy

Hi, I know basically nothing about suspension set ups, so I need some advice before taking my VR6 to a garage. The car has the standard set up at the moment. I noticed today that the rear wheel arch is sitting a fair bit higher on the left hand side than the right hand side. At a guess it's about 2 inches. I've also started getting a sinlge knocking sound when going round right hand bends. The obviously needs sorted. Depending on what the problem is, I'm thinking that now may be a good time to get it lowered. Can someone please explain what's involved in lowering i.e. which components make up the suspension and which ones would need replaced. If the problem is with something that's not involved with lowering, then I'll just replace it. But if I'm going to have to replace something that would need to be replaced when lowering, then now's a good time to do it. Cheers, Briggy

The joys of being old..... I'm 32, with 3 points. Got business use and my girlfriend added. Fully comp, protected 5+ years. Unmodified VR6. Total cost £421.05 with Admiral. Very happy. :D Briggy

Hi, I have a VR6 with 107,000 miles on the clock. When I put my foot down at about 3000 rpm, I get a rattling noise, like ball bearings in a plastic cup. I'm told that this may be pinking and that it's bad news. One suggestion was to use a higher octane fuel, so I've switched to Optimax. The noise hardly ever occurs now, bit still does the odd time. I've also heard that the cam chain tensioners can go at about 100,000 miles and from reading the forum, the noise is quite similar. As far as I know, these have never been changed. I know all about the damage a broken cam chain can do. I'm not particularly experienced mechanically, but don't mind getting my hands dirty. How do I spot tensioner damage - i.e. where is it and what does it look like? Cheers, Bryan