G60 Bob

Could be the old faithful - vacuum tube from the back of the throttle body to the ecu needs to be exactly 1m long long and in perfect condition. This will cause the problems you describe and is quick and easy to check?

Sorry but i didnt get an exact value but the mechanic said it was half what it should be on idle etc. I dont think i can take anymore problems with this thing - everytime i see light at the end of the (3 year long) tunnel my hpoes are well and truely dashed!

With no leaks and no rattles what could be the possibilities?

Hi Guys, The oil warning light and beeper on my G60 had been giving a bleep every now and again after a motorway blast so i did what other had suggestted having searched i.e. replaced the the high and low sensors, oil and filter change which didnt really help. I had an oil pressure guage hooked up today and its showing about half the pressure it should be which is not good. From reading posts on teh search the likely candidates are a blocked pick-up or the pump itself but the mechanic said it coudl be a whole heap of things. the engine has done just over 100k with no leaks and after chaging the oil it was purring like a kitten so i dont think it could be the big end. Should i be worried; could it be something other than the pump and pick-up?

It could be the blue temperature sensor; it makes the car use fuel and pick up slowly. Just swap it with the black one beside it on the water flange at the front of the engine and see if it improves (you'll probably notice the water temp guage not reading properly if the blue sensor is knackered)

There are several posts on this but none has an answer. Basically the MFA oil temp rises by 4 degrees when i switch the sidelights on and a further 4 degrees when the main beam is switched on and posts found during searches indicate its caused by a poor earth - it seems to be a common problem. However none of the previous posts have an answer as to which earth was causing this or indeed anyone who has actually solved the problem - any suggestions good corrado people?

Whats the noise level of the twin inlet airbox like compared with the 'standard' airbox?

Replaced the blue and black sensors together yesterday so we will see how long they last. Cheers R

Its filled with 2 month old G12+ so i dont think that could be it. What made me think it is somthing other than the sensor itself killing it is the fact that i swapped blue and black electrical plugs over and the black sensor that was then being read by the ecu died. Any ideas? R

G60 was running lumpy and smelt of black gold (petrol) so i swapped the blue and black plugs of the temperature sensors and 'hey presto' the car ran perfect but the water temp didnt work - diagnosis replace BTS Two days later before i could replace BTS started running lumpy again and was hard to start smelt of petrol again. I have replacd the BTS (from VAG) four times now in two years of owning the car - could it be a short circuit, break in the wiring or something else causing the BTS to fail (nothing obvious in the accessable wiring). R

Cheers Kev will do - i knew one of the handling gods would come to the rescue of an adjustable set-up virgin :D

I dont think its the brake bias valve as its very stable on the brakes and ofcourse i wasnt breaking mid corner 8) It surprised me because i was powering out of the corner and ended up in a sort of tail led 4 wheel drift. The tyres are Kumho Ecsta Supra 712s on the back - just checked! That could be it then as the tracking is all set well within tollerances. Perhaps i'll try swopping them around to see if that helps but if they are that bad i'll probably understeer instead. Kev - was that Koni setting for the 4cyl or 6cyl guys because i thought the wheel control wasnt as good with them set much softer than they are now although 90mph+ on a long open back road had me almost bouncing out of my seat!

Just checked the tyres - rears are Kumho Ecsta with 60% tread and fronts Goodyear Eagle with 90% tread in standard 15" size.

Coming round a very familiar 90 degree 3 lane wide bend in the soaking wet at a modest speed and when passing the apex the rear end stepped out and the car need a quick dose of opposite lock to keep it straight(ish) in the resulting drift. I recently fitted Koni TA's, JOM lowering caps and H&Rs to my G60 along with new wishbones, bumpstops, topmounts and every bush (inc. rear axle bushes). From reading various posts i have the tyre pressures set harder at the front (34 front 32 rear) and the Konis set at 2 turns front and 1 turn rear. It handles great in the dry, virtually no understeer and very stable on the brakes. It does go a little light at the rear when cornering hard but i thought that was the 'rear steering' effect! Do i need to adjust the damping again to counteract this (whilst the rear shelves are still out) because otherwise it seems perfect or alternatively is this just a handling characteristic - what do you think?

It sounds like the problem i was having with my G60 and proved very hard to diagnose because it was very intermittant in severity. Seemed to behave better when you were very gentle on the throttle. Check the woodruf key in your bottom (crank) pulley isnt worn causing the timing to be constantly altered (slightly) - it is a common problem on G60s. Its actually the reason why i need to rebuild my engine because it damaged the crank when it eventually sheared off at the bolt. Definately worth checking :wink: Close inspection is required because all the timing marks still line up

OK, it looks like ive sourced a decently priced replacement G60 engine in Nottingham - now i just got to figure out a way to get it to Belfast! I found a few engines at varying prices with different mileage, in your opinion would i be better spending more on a newer engine or is it all just a lottery (planning on fitting new gasgets and valve stem oil seals anyway)? R

Nice one, so its just a straight swap - is there any performance advantage? R

Are the Golf Rallye engine and the Corrado G60 engines exactly the same becuae i can get a low mileage Rallye engine for decent money. Will it be a straight fit, are there any performance differences? R

Its my only car so I need to get it back on the road ASAP. Money is also an issue. Mechanic said that it would be cheaper to buy a new engine rather than replace the crank and the valves due to the labour cost for stripping it and the parts. Would it be better / more cost effective in the long run to rebuild the bottom end - could there be any performance advantage in doing this (just to cheer myself up)? R

There is a chunk worn away form the end of the crank shaft Supercharged! Can these engines be picked up 2nd hand (i just replaced all of the suspension inc bushes with Konis + H&Rs and fitted a new Milltek system so im skint) and from where? R

It has bent the valve as well so i think a replacement G60 engine would be cheaper than stripping the existing one to replace a crankshaft and several / all off the valves The only problem is i think the PG blocks are quite rare :roll:

The crank pulley in my G60 sheared off at the bolt because the crank was damaged by the original worn pulley that was replaced about 6 months ago with a DX bolt and a new pulley. At least its good news for those G60 owners who have fitted the DX bolt with thread lock - that sucker aint going nowhere! What are my options - how much would a replacement engine cost, where would i get one from, would a 16V G60 be on the cards for not much more money? R

Beavis - thats a great guide 8) ; any chance of posting up the ignition timing one mentioned at the bottom?

Got the exhaust and decat fitted to rule out the melted CAT but the car will still only rev cleanly with a tiny opening of the throttle (i.e. 2 or 3 degrees of travel) any more and its like the engine is being starved of fuel and will not accelerate and the revs struggle to rise. It is also using more fuel than it should be and backfires twice when changing down into 4th and 3rd gear. Timing is 100%, BTS and lamda are new VAG items, vac pipes all new and double checked so im now thinking its fuel related or at least the ECU is restricting fuel as a result of something else. The fuel pump is noisy when starting up even after the filter change and i can smell fuel when the engine is cold (although the fuel smell has always been there) Suspects are throttle switch, FPR, fuel pump and ECU - how can i tell what is causing the problem without throwing more money at the car? please help!

It turned out to be a blocked/melted cat causing the problem because the exhaust gases cant escape so im ordering a de-cat and full Milltek system from Awesome tomorrow. PLUS it just passed MOT today and after getting the alignment set up and letting the new Konis and H&Rs settle i can REALLY appreciate how good the C handles - the turn in is now phenominal; cant wait to get the power back so that i can test it out properly! One happy (again) Corrado owner - thanks for the help as always.