G60 Bob

How do i fix it, can the idle screw be replaced? I have blocked off the hole for the moment to stop the whistling and the boost escaping but the idle is quite high. It doesnt look like there are any threads for a screw to go back in; is it possibe i will have to replace the whole throttle body?

I was reading is last months Evo that the charger in the new AMG Mercedes only uses 20bhp to run it whereas the charger on the Jag S-Type R costs the output 100bhp :shock: !!!! Does anyone know how many horsies the G-lader uses whilst boosting up our lives?

i thought the next bit went........"D-4 damager, power to the people" :D just shows you what i know!

The timing was set to 6 degrees statically but i dont have a timing light to ensure that it is 6 degrees at 2-2500 revs. Is this still likely to be correct or to be sure do i need a timing strobe?

Just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone on both sides of the Irish Sea (and Atlantic for that matter) that gave me help and advice over the last few months that i was having running problems with my G60. Turned out that the cam timing had jumped a tooth because the woodruf key on the crank pulley was worn quite badly and it was the last thing we thought could be wrong because the head was rebuilt quite recently and everything was fine and properly timed up after that. I really missed my car when it was sick and quite seriously considered getting rid of it as the frustration was taking its toll. Now the problems are sorted the rado is flying and the charger is ready to be wound up.......let the mods commence! Thanks again, Rob

Please excuse my ignorance here but how can you check the advance of the distributer whilst the car is running; if you disconnect it to look the car will die?

Definately dazed and confused; thanks for the help Henny! Right so i think all i need to do is take the pulley back as i dont need it and buy a woodruf key from VW as i have the DX crank bolt on order from G-Werks and i have the other bits and pieces. Thanks again.

Cheers Henny; so by the sound of it ive either got the wrong pulley or am i just missing the woodruf key - i.e. it is available seperately from VW? Any idea of part number or cost guys?

h100vw is the woodruf key on the G60 crank pulley a little raised dot on the pulley itself? I just got a new one to make sure that this slipping isnt happening on mine and before i start taking things apart i just wanted to make sure i got the right pulley?

It does sounds possible as the exhaust pops and burbles on overrun like the fuel supply is not shutting off but it is far more on and off than than that. Its most noticeable on part throttle or at low revs in highjer gears - just like the engine is starved of fuel or timing is being restricted (i.e. it initially lurches forward as if trying to repond then is held back) When the throttle is pinned it goes at about 75% but acceleration is hesitant and revs rise very slowly compared to when she was running right. Vac hose was replaced less than a year ago and i had a qucik check and its fine. Throttle switch seems to click nice and cleanly on both closed and full throttle. Could a faulty FPR cause this as i havent looked into it being the problem?

I have similar symtoms with my G60. Gonna make sure the timing has not slipped and is 100% before i shell out on a new fuel pump so id really like to hear your theory if it applies to my motor?

Just tried to order the bolt and washer from VW and its on back order and has been for quite a while. Any alternatives?

stevemac ive got a 12 gallon tank. My G60 is registered in 92 but has the early wings, bonnet and dash. Does this mean that i have two seperate pumps and therefore only need the in tank lift pump? Does this mean i will still have the compatibility issue with the sender? Could i be a real pain and ask for the proper part number so i dont have to rely on the GSF counter staff again. cheers Robert

Finally traced my running problems with my 92 G60 to the fuel pump which is almost dead and very noisy (filter replaced less than a year ago) The stealer wants £110 + VAT for 191090369274AB which flows 4 bar. GSF and Euro state that 1H0919651P supercedes the above part for £80 + VAT but it only flows 3 bar. Do i need the VW one at 4 bar or will the other one work? Will i need a replacement sender unit too or with either of these work with the existing one?

So how do you tell if your G60 is in limp mode? Is there any objective way to tell i.e. a warning light etc or is it just "my car isnt accelerating as well as normal so it must be in limp mode" type thing. The document i read stated that the ECU can run OK with one duff sensor but as soon as another goes out of range it enters 'limp mode'. Do you need to reset the ECU once the offending sensor is replaced or should it clear itself once it gets a good signal?

thanks for the support guys; good to know theres help out there when you need it! I'll keep y'all up to date on how i get on.

Cheers for the replies guys. It just feels like i am pissing my money up against a wall! Definately dont think its the lamda as before it was replaced it only started playing up when it got warm; now it constantly runs like a bag of shite! Its amazing how much of an effect something like this has on your state of mind; it been seriously annoying me all week. Looks like im leaving it in to the "VW specialist" again tomorrow for another big bill.

After owning my beloved G60 for close on to a year i am almost ready to throw in the towel. The major problem is no one here has seen a G60 let alone knows how to fix one! Got the lamda replaced last week and a fan problem sorted and everything went well for a day or so until on the way home from a long run the car started too go lumpy and steadily got worse along with the throttle response. Its now got to the stage that with the throttle pinned in 4th at 2000rpm it does almost nothing! Idle is dipping to about 200rpm when de-clutching at junctions before recovering. Even in the lower gears the rev counter needle rises incredibly slowly and the rise to the redline is far from smooth hitting plenty of flat spots along the way. Throttle response is non-existant I need to tell the garage i leave it into exactly what to do because these things are rarer than rocking horse crap over here. I was seriously considering driving it to G-Werks but that woyuld cost me £300-£400 before i even get there; it would be cheaper to fly someone over here - fancy a few days in beautiful Belfast Darren? The car is standard apart form the charger (just rebuild - normal size pulley) I have replaced dizzy cap, charger rebuilt to stage 4 by G-werks (8 months ago), new leads, new lamda, head rebuilt, new blue temp sensor etc etc. Could a bad earth be responsible for the problems i am describing? Is it the ECU; definately feels like power is being restricted - id say it has less than half the power it has as standard as if it is in safe mode? PLEASE HELP, I AM SO FRUSTRATED WITH THIS CAR!!!!

Forgot to mention; replaced the dizzy cap when i got the car about 8 months ago and the idle is now dipping at junctions etc intermittantly too.

Any updates on this yet? I had my lamda changed on Friday and the car ran great on Friday and on a spirited drive on saturday but on the way home it started running lumpy, no throttle response, foot to the floor in 4th at 2,000rpm and the revs just creapt up - lots of noise but very little acceleration until about 4,000 but even then it was far from smooth. Running a bit like it was when the vacuum hose was the incorrect length but with less power id say. Its just one thing after another, getting really pissed off with my 'dream' car which is fast turning into a nightmare!

Could someone list the earths that should be checked in order to solve this as i am leaving my car to a local garage next week and am suffering from similar problems?

the cars going into the shop on Monday to get some damage repaired and ive been so busy i havnt had time to get the passenger side wing mirror cover and fule filler flap that i need for my G60. Can anyone give me the number of a good reliable company that i can get stuff sent through the post? I think Volkbits are good but cant seem to find their number. Thanks, Robert

looks like i got a duff switch then !!! Off to GSF i go then..............

would the relay affect the fan running off both the thermoswitch and the over-run switch? I took her for a good run last night and just plodding along normally both water and oil are fine but as soon as i come to a hill or accelerate hard at all the oil temp goes up (water is fine) and takes longer than it used to recover. With the car at a standstill oil temp fluctuates between 112 and 114; still no fan. Is there anything else i can check?

the fan works on both speeds when bridged but i have changed the theroswitch and the fan is not coming on at all no matter how hot it gets and the over run fan now doesnt seem to be coming on either even though oil temps reached 120 when driving. i didnt change the thermostat because the radiator gets hot all the way down (and i have hot air through the heaters) blue temp sensor has been replaced, coolant and oil levels are OK but oil temps are about 10 degrees higher than they were before i started having problems. any ideas good Corrado people?