G60 Bob

Vacuum hoses are ok, lamda and blue temp ssensor (both VAG) just replaced, mate mechanic says the crank wouldnt have moved cause of the bolt/threadlock/air gun so im now back to square one again. Will check plugs and timing again when i get the chance - any other suggestions?

Checked the cable and its fine hitting both switches its just a little sticky. Im starting to think the timing must be out again as Matt suggested because it seems to rev ok on a very slight throttle but hits a wall as you try to press it any further. The crank pulley was replaced and fitted with a DX bolt about 6 months ago because it had worn the woodruf key - could i have a problem with the crank (or something else) if it has happened again?

It clicks cleanly both closed and open but the cable and the pedal are very sticky and the cable itself is slack at the throttle body end. Would like possibility explain the hot oil temp due to lean running?

Spent at least 7 hours using the search last night and i think ive found my problem but wanted to get the reasoning behind it. My G60 has just had the lamda replaced with a VAG item but still the mpg isnt as good as it was im down on power and the exhaust is poping on overrun. It seems lke the throttle cable is stiff and seems to be streched so its not hitting the WOT switch when the pedal is fully depressed - actually get better acceleration using a gentle touch of the pedal. I am assuming that because the cable is streched it may not be returning to the closed throttle position either causing high consumption and the odd pop when coming off the throttle. Am i also right to assume that the engine will be running lean because the WOT switch is not being hit and thats why im getting oil temps of 120 degrees just pootling around at 50mph. Why is it so bad not to hit the WOT switch? Does this diagnosis sound about right or can anyone suggest any other possibilities?

Cheers Supercharged i'll get one ordered up tomorrow R

Maybe i didntt explain myself properly - i can get the version of the lamda for a G60 with a cat but as i am planning to de-cat would it run better with the other version. Or another way of saying it 'what is the difference between these two lamda sensors - will the cat version work OK with a de-CAT?'

Just called the stealership to order a new lamda and thay informed me that there are different parts for G60s depending on whether or not they have a CAT. Ive never heard of this before but as i am planning on de-catting shortly should i get the non-CAT version? Will it still pass the MOT with the CAT on (as it failed MOT on emissions and i dont have time to order and fit the de-cat before the re-test).

OK just to confirm a few things before we have a look at it tonight:- - clutch has done less than 50 miles (none of them hard) so even if it is of crap quality that shouldnt be the problem (if it was fitted correctly) - the clutch wouldnt have went back together if it was misaligned (is that correct Darren?) - could be oil contamination on the contact sufaces or possible leak - could be gearbox mount incorrectly tightened / fitted - could be a warped flywheel :cry: (keeps fingers crossed its the mount cause im skint!)

Thanks for the help so far - looks like it could be a number of things. It was fitted by a mate (experienced Volvo mechanic) so i need to narrow it down as much as possible with help from the forum members :wink: before we start ripping it all out again cause the money has dried up and i need my car back on the road ASAP. I hope my more detailed description of the problem has shed some more light on the possible cause, any further suggestions of what to try first would be really appreciated .........

It was a Sachs clutch which i think is pretty good quality? The gearbox mount was also replaced with a mk2 sold rubber item at the same time. If it was contamination by oil etc would this get better with wear - maybe i should give it a little work to do in order to burn it off? When i let the clutch out gradually and apply no throttle it makes a progresively more violent shudder the further the clutch is released. Seems to be more violent / evident in reverse compared to first gear. Would this make it more likely to be a particular one of the possiblities mentioned?

Just got my G60 back after having a new clutch fitted and it shudders and vibrates through the pedal when trying to move carefully i.e. entering a narrow driveway or performing a 3 point turn in a tight space etc. It is fine when moving away normally with a few revs dialled in. What could be the cause of this; will it go away as it beds in? My mechanic has suggested a warped flywheel but as it didnt happen before it was replaced i am looking for alternative suggestions. Any ideas guys?

Anyone?

Would the handling be adversely affected because i want the best compromise between looks and performance through the twisties (its one of the best things about a C after all!) I'd really love the phat 17x8s but it definately wouldnt be worth not being able to use my baby to the full potential after shelling out on all new suspension inc. arms, wishbones, tie rods, bushes, shocks, springs etc (especially seeing that its still with my mate who is doing the work). What do you guys think?

Will these fit under the arches with Koni TA and H&R combo? Anyone who has these wheels seems to have gone for the 16x7 but there seems to be other G60s out there with 17x8 rims so i was wondering why the peeps with these wheels didnt go larger? R

hello are u talking about the plate with two 11mm bolts in it wich attachs to the bellhousing and if so was that not under the the driveshaft are is there another plate i tried turning the box but it would only go so far also do u need the front mont competly off the car

I have all the charger pipes gear change cables ect off and the gbox all out and the box seems to be getting blocked by the diff side hitting off lower subframe and the drivers side driveshaft cup hitting on fly wheel any advice welcome cheers

Does the crossmember need to be removed to get the gearbox out? Cheers R

Thanks for the suggestions guys; id really love some BBS splits with black centres (who wouldnt) but how about some alternatives that would mean i could keep both my kidneys..................

Can you guys suggest any options and perhaps post some pics - i really like Keskin KT4's but think some wheels with black centers and a polished lip would look 8) on my white G60. Would like 17"s with a bit of a dish on them ideally but im open to suggestions....................

"Power is nothing without control" is the Pirelli slogan that was originally used in an ad featuring Carl Lewis in a pair of red high heels! - so there you go (it was one of my favourites actually). I think that image actually illustrates the point perfectly that it doesnt matter how much power you have it means nothing unless you are able to use it!

This is the first time ive actually driven a Ferrari in anger - ive driven a couple of Maseratis before on test drive days (i look after the advertising for some brands in a large car group) but this was something else! And i thought i wanted one before id driven it! Rob

Well i turned 25 yesterday and managed to blag a run in a Ferrari tonight. It ended up being a silver 360 F1 - thought id probably get a quick 20 min drive up the motorway but I ended up being out for over an hour and a half on some quality twisty backroads! All i can say is wow - id been a passenger in a Stradale before but actually driving a real modern Ferrari at some proper speeds was unreal blipping up and down through the gearbox and reving that engine to 8500 (scared o any more!) the noise was unbelievable - probably got more of a drive than you would on one of those Ferrari experience thingies! Ofcourse i then got a proper demo at the hands of an experienced driver on the way home - what an evening! Im still buzzing and i got out of the car at half seven!

Thanks for the advice guys - now i just have to save save save! By the way i meant 5000rpm in each gear :oops: i havnt seen 5000rpm in fifth that many times as the oil temp seems to rise as fast as the speed when going that fast!

Reving my G60 above 5000rpm for any length in time results in oil temps rising rapidly from 106-110 to anything up to 125-130 depending on how long im giving some but the water temp never goes any higher than 100*C. Oil teps come back down after 5-10 mins of normal driving. Is this normal because im starting to think somthing is reading incorrectly or broken? I plan to get an oil cooler before fitting a chip and pulley but i dont want to start tuning it from standard if something isnt working properly and end up having my baby go kaboom!

Got a replacement idle screw ordered from VW on Saturday after expaining to the parst monkey that it did actually exist for about 10 mins until he open his eyes and read the screen - so it should be here on Wednesday. It better be the right part cause i have to drive to 'Electric Picnic' on Friday for a weekend of hedonism.