Jump to content

_Matt_

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,478

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Posts posted by _Matt_

  1. Posted

    Cheers Keyo. Just done the pressure switches (as they were leaking too!). The oil cooler looked fine a couple of months ago... but you never know.

     

    It’s had a new sump but the oil is leaking higher up.

     

    Fun times. May as well have a full top end refurb, head gasket plus some 268 cams if doing the chains.

  2. Posted · Edited by pfnsht

    Hi all,

     

    I've had a leak for a while that has now got quite a bit worse - 1/2 litre of oil leaked over the last 200 miles.

     

    The oil is all on the timing chain side of the engine and covers from about half way down the timing chain casing to the sump and bell housing, plus splatters over the draft-shaft. Recently I fixed a leaking oil pressure sensor but this is all new oil now as I wiped that lot off at the time.

     

    I took a picture of the leak from the rear - view is from top down and looks moist with oil about halfway down, in line with the exhaust manifold level.

     

    Oil is also escaping from the front, behind the thermostat but I wasn't able to get a clear picture.

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]95753[/ATTACH]

     

    When I changed the coil pack earlier this year I noticed oil on the tips of the threads too.

     

    The rocker cover gasket/top of the engine appear largely dry.

     

    This to me is pointing to some sort of failed seal on the timing chain cover. What do you guys think? I have no history of the chains being replaced and have been saving the pennies for this job (but unfortunately I can't do it right now). I'm assuming around £1k for this job. I have a mobile VAG mechanic but unsure whether to give this job over to him as he hasn't seen many VR6 engines and hasn't done a chain on one these before....Stealth is an hour away so is an option.

     

    The car has done 151k with FSH but has had little use in the last 7 years with only around 10k being covered in that time. I've been trying to use the car more but I guess things have started to perish over the last few years.

     

    I've also spotted a coolant leak under the rad too. Joys.

  4. Posted

    Oh yes most probably well past their best then. I've read the same reports re: eibach pro line / 20-25mm kits and standard shocks. When I was researching the same combo works well across other forums for other makes so it will be fine.

     

    I had this exact same headache around a year ago so feel your frustration on something that should be straight forward. Fortunately Larkspeed will sort it all out either way.

  5. Posted

    I bought my kit from Larkspeed too, they were very good at swapping over even though I bought the kit 6 months before fitting.

     

    Re: the ride though - I wouldn't have thought there would be much difference between H&R and Eibach springs. Have you got adjustable Koni's? Maybe they've been wound up to their hardest setting. Else Billy B4s should make the ride softer, being a softer shock. One point to note is that B4s aren't designed for shorter springs, that said there is probably enough tolerance in it to cater for mild lowering springs and depending where you read it's often said 20/25mm spring kits were designed to for stock shocks.

  7. Posted

    Good luck and hope it works out fine! Some people haven’t had the problems and you could be right about the shocks - the springs were always available as a standalone product. If you google for images for corrado’s on eibach springs there’s a silver one and it looks fine (and is on standard shocks).

  8. Posted

    I’m not 100% what went wrong with eibach, corrados had different suspension up front as they changed from 4 to 5 stud plus axles. Whether the rear spring included in the kit worked well with the older set up I’m not sure.

     

    My car has a circa two finger gap between tyre and arch all the way around, whereas with the original rears I had no gap at all at the back but just over 2 fingers up front!

     

    To add more confusion to the mix earlier VR6 seemed to have lower suspension from the factory so the eibach rears may work fine in that application. My car is a 1995 and had very high suspension all round originally!

  9. Posted

    Yes that was my dilemma too - stock is far too high. The B12 has got it sitting perfectly. It looks stock in the modern world when compared to cars with sports suspension from the manufacturer.

     

    Im going to work around the bushes overtime. I can’t fault the damping characteristics and wheel control.

     

    Kayo and others - with regard to the rear springs out of the box - some kits come with rear spring that lower the car too much. These are part number: EW8513002HA

     

    The replacement springs (which eibach will send for free) are 8502002HA.

     

    I did fit both to mine. The originals had it almost on the bump stops but the replacements have more travel room and don’t require them being cut down.

  10. Posted

    I also have the B12 kit, though I've not yet driven it with the correct rear springs (different story/thread), even so, it was night and day better than the Weitec Coilovers that were on there before.

     

    I've got the correct rear springs on mine. I'm comparing to stock suspension, the body control and damping is great but I feel ruts and harsh roads etc. much more through the cabin. I think new rear beam bushes will offer so more "refinement" as that's where I feel and sense the harshness.

  12. Posted

    Ahh thanks Sean. My current position is - I've got the headliner out of the car, the old material was ruined so I've got the headliner template cleaned up ready to go for some new material.

     

    I fitted a new sunroof mech and am now running a passat moonroof with a grey fabric slider panel so not the original. The fabric is very similar to the original corrado stuff.

     

    Is it possible to retrim the sunroof cassette? I've got two of them to practice on. I thought I had read it can be problematic if material isn't as thin as the original but maybe that applied to the original corrado cassette fabric thinking about it and how it work muchanically?

     

    If I can do the whole lot that's much easier as don't need to worry about matching up. I'm not that fussed if it's not exactly OEM as was just trying to tie up with the cassette material. Faux suede could work a treat if that's the case.

  15. Posted

    I was going to use mrinjector too. He has quoted 85 to do all 6. Can’t remeber if that was plus VAT.

     

    It is probably worth changing the blue sensor (can do without draining coolant if you are quick - make sure you get the old o-ring out). FPR can be a bit of a struggle to get out of its housing and you’ll likely chew the old one in the process.

  16. Posted

    I've had similar issues and replaced most things too - Crank, Cam, Coil, leads, Coolant sensors, Thermostat, FPR, Fuel Relay. None of it made a difference unfortunately.

     

    Recently I installed a one way valve at the fuel pump and it seems to have made some difference. This was on recommendation of a few chaps on here. I usually like to understand how something has fixed the issue but don't get it on this one. The FPR is supposed to maintain pressure in the rail so a one way valve keeping more fuel in the line shouldn't make a difference. Cold starts are fine so you'd assume the issue would be present when cold if it was a fueling issue. I'm not aware of whether the fuel pump serves more fuel on cold vs hot starts.

     

    My other port of call is the injectors. I'm similar mileage (151k) and believe they've never been serviced. Leaky fuel injectors would cause warm starting issues as they leak fuel held in the rail into the cylinders. When warm this would flood the engine but when cold most of it will have evaporated. Worn injectors also cause performance issues and idle vibration (I have this too). I'll be whipping them out for servicing (

  17. Posted

    I have a Bremi on mine. I was looking for a Beru as supposedly better but no problems with mine. I've also bought one of those plates that sit between the coil pack and the engine to limit the temperatures to avoid the cracking. There is a guy on the facebook group making them for around £25, comes with longer bolts too - Matthew Huggins is the fella to contact.

  19. Posted

    Actually another idea - you could swap the lead to another cylinder and see if it responds the same or if you have a multimeter check the resistance of the lead (set to Ohms). Prob best to whip a few of the leads off to compare resistance readings.

  22. Posted

    That’s weird, I’m doing the same and only see stuff from America (out of stock) and some vwparts international (out of stock too!)

     

    There is one for sale for 69 quid from America on eBay. Hmm I might need to try another computer

  25. Posted

    I get comments on nice car when it's in for work at garages - wheel alignment etc. and by delivery drivers whilst i'm out fixing or cleaning it.

     

    I had a great one a couple of months back though - I was front of the lights and a chap was literally stopped in his tracks as he crossed the road - he stopped to marvel at the car, then carried on crossing looking back. Once he got to the pavement he stopped and turned around to look at it again, turned and walked a couple of steps and and stopped again to admire the car! I felt a bit uncomfortable with the attention to be honest as the lady in the car next to me had a bewildered look on her face as to what was going on. All hail the Corrado.

×
×
  • Create New...