JohnJ

...and my 2p worth... Try pushing the fan switch inwards...if this makes the fan work then it is probably the switch contacts which are worn. HTH

If you are going to bypass the dampener then be careful what material you use, dont pick anything that will pinch and restrict air flow (or you will screw up your idle speed) and remember the location at the back of the bay, over the manifold will get v.hot. Speed fit plastic plumbing pipes and a couple of 90 degree bends are an easy temporary fix! HTH

No never did try cleaner, was thinking about giving it a go but my car was off the road waiting for a bearing anyway so I took the chance to get them refurbed. I suppose taking them out to be cleaned and tested means 100% certainty that they are good. I was told each injector has its own built-in filter (true?) and these were pretty gunged up, presumably injector cleaner would not have been able to entirely clean the filter elements?

Just had all 6 injectors ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested (at £25 each) to try and cure an intermittent 'induction backfire' problem. Thought my car was running reasonably well beforehand and it did well at a recent RR-day but: Cold-start is now instant. Always started first-turn but was taking a few seconds before it would catch. Think this might be down to losing fuel rail pressure via a leaky injector? Start-up feels 'smoother'. Idle is totally solid with no 'charateristic VR6' lumpiness. Throttle response is much sharper, engine is generally more refined. My mileage (120k) and care (FSH, regular oil changes/filters etc) are fairly typical so I would have thought that other owners might be suffering similar, without even realising it??? HTH.

And if the glue is not shifting... buy an 'eraser wheel' from a body supplies store: a little rubber wheel that fits on a drill and removes all the nasty stickness in a couple of minutes...with zero damage to the paint! Sooooperb :D

A couple of good pointers, thanks! :D

It did occur to me that it might be the ECU throwing out bad data, but the problem is so intermittent I am a bit dubious. Might just wait until the car is off-the-road for a few days anyway and I will get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Might even try some injector-cleaning fuel additive but I wont expect too much success!

Hoping someone can help with a very intermittent problem: Every now and again my '96 VR will backfire through the induction system, just as the starter is engaged. Has happened about 6 times now and usually destroys the ISV dampener box :mad: . Only happens when the engine is cold. The car starts and runs perfectly 99.9% of the time. The HT system seems fine, no arcing, and the coil pack has already been changed. I have a K&N induction kit fitted but this was on long before this particular fault came about. I am beginning to think that perhaps an injector is getting leaky, or even a really random ECU/wiring fault. :? Any thoughts?

You swine Sandy, your torque beat my BHP figure!!! :mad: Hows about doing me one of your special reflowed chargers that I can bolt onto the VR? :lol: Good to see everyone again and Thanks to Roddy for making the arrangements.

Depending on how Saturday night goes I will either join the Glasgow team at the Showcase early doors or just wander up to Star a bit later on...Remember to keep space at the back for a little un! G40 AL (or is it now 20V AL?) what you thinkin buddy?

Think some Audi models (A4?) came with chromed locks which can be adapted to fit.

A big squad (15 cars, 34 bodies last year) usually set off from Bedrock VeeDubs in Motherwell on the Friday morning, stay at a nearby Travel Lodge type place, then cruise back up Sunday afternoon. We are a very friendly, mixed crowd so anyone (lads, lasses, couples) who wants to hook up for the journey, or the whole weekend, will be very welcome. Swing past Bedrock or forward any details to moi.

OK, I am with you now. The black lead does not need to go all the way back to the battery, just find a solid earth point. There is a earth 'spider' in the driver-side footwell, behind the dash and just above the bonnet release lever...run a decent guage cable from the head unit , over the top of the steering column and connect with a 5mm spade crimp. Best option to join cables is to make a solder connection and the protect with heatshrink tubing. Next best is to use bullet crimps. Next best is wiring blocks (or terminal block or chocolate block) insulated with tape. Do not twist wires together and try to avoid the blue wiring clamps (mentioning no trade names!). HTH :D

In my view it depends on the spec of the HU. The high power Alpines (i.e. 60W/channel) have a seperate wire for the +12v supply since the peak current demand is near the limit of the ISO spec. The other HUs should be OK running the ISO supply, but by all means run a separate wire if you are having problems. All IMO of course.

Cheers Lads... I should have demanded a recount, how could a POLO beat a CORRADO fergodsake!!! :lol: Is that why Big Al was buying buns for the judges? (or maybe I should not have voted for him...doh!). Well done Al (he is not all bad...he is on this forum after all) but don't get too cocky, I will have my revenge at the RR Day! :evil: JohnJ