vr6paul

To be honest there is already a small hole on the upper passenger side corner (under the outer seal) - my car is a bit of a project - so when I do get the body work done I will need to rectify this too. He did say the old rubber outer seal had been put on by someone botching the job previously. I'm not sure he is thinking this now that his first batch did not fit. From the outset he did warn about rust around the window etc (before touching the car).

So last week I discovered a nasty crack in the corrado windscreen that got longer with minimal pressure on the screen. Called insurance then auto glass and arranged a technician for last Friday. They phoned back Thursday to say the guy they had planned to send couldn't do that screen, they had to send someone else on Sunday. The chap they did send had a hard time it seemed and couldn't get the screen surround to fit, gaps at the top etc. They are now sending 2 guys back on Thursday this week to refit the screen again (with a spare screen incase they break the new one that they are removing). Fun and games!

Guys thanks for all your help. After giving up on my soldering marathon I went back to the switch/dial. Got all the copper connections out and cleaned them. I had previously adjusted the copper tab that is attached to the knob/dial but I did not know at that point that it had to contact front and back (2 copper rings effectively). I think in initially adjusting this tab (before replacing thermal fuse) I had inadvertently moved the tab away from the "far away" or bottom set of connectors. I then fixed the thermal fuse and kept refitting the motor with no joy - now that I have adjusted the copper tab properly (more of a twist in it now so it is effectively wider) it all works! Yee ha! Another job done thanks for all the help, Another job added though as I noticed a huge crack in the windscreen today - auto glass booked for Friday. Tomorrow it's door membrane and an abs sensor. Fun fun.

Ah ok num1 is the earth that's why I got that result. Will keep trying!

Ok im at it again! When testing resistance between the female bullet terminals on the outer casing of the resistor I get very low resistance across them all except the one labeled num1. I get the same result when testing between the spade connector on the opposite side (the one connected to the thermal fuse). Does this mean another problem somewhere??

Thanks for all the tips! Will get to it and fingers crossed!

I'll try again tonight and if no joy will end up looking for a resistor from one of the breakers. Thanks

Thanks for that. I will give the plastic bag route a try. I guess I am looking to basically stick it to the inside of the door allowing holes for wiring etc? I am now thinking my lower door seal is not up to much so could also be at fault. One thing at a time though eh! Thanks

Hi everyone. The next job for me is to try an get the footwell dry (discovered last night it was soaked!) I have already replaced the gasket for the scuttle cover so now I am thinking the fact that there is no plastic membrane in the door at all may be causing the problem. Can anyone suggest what sort of plastic to use and where to get it? Are we talking thick bin bag type material?? Also I am assuming it is just a case of covering the whole of the inner door. Any help would be great thanks.

That was a worry but when I test the fuse I am getting next to zero resistance so I'm assuming they are still good?? The old fuse shows massive resistance. Could the resistor pack be gubbed or should I try the fuse approach again?? Cheers again!

Thanks to the various threads on this topic I have got my hands on the replacement thermal fuses from maplins. I have now had a few goes at soldering the fuse in but with no success re speeds 1,2,3 on the fan. Speed 4 still works. On testing the new fuse it still seems ok (zero resistance)so I don't think I've fried it. Could there be an additional issue causing the fan speed problems? I don't think it is the connection at the dial either. Any ideas or tips? Many thanks Ps while removing the motor I discovered a soaking wet floor well - lovely - new plastic lining needed in the passenger door then! The jobs never end!

I can certainly vouch for the "sounding like it was just parked the day before". My vr was keen as mustard to start and run - after being layed up for ages.

The very ones. Thanks. Have you a PayPal? Perhaps pm me? Cheers

Hey there, The pass side window regulator keeps popping out of the white plastics guide (white circular thingy ) so I am after a couple if these if anyone has any. Mine has the all important lip worn away so it's not much use. Also not essential but having bought my old car back it is without the vr6 engine cover - any chance? Thanks again.

Doh! Pic wrong way.

Great news! I did the same a few months ago and bought my old vr back. It had sat in a farm for a whole, last tax disc was 2008. In the 10 years since I had it last it had only done 10k miles! Now has new brakes, brake lines, brake pipes, bearings, alternator, belts, plugs, heater matrix, ball joints, track rod ends, arb links, coil overs and most of all an mot! Loving it too. Well done again sir. Mine is certainly a "rat rod" of sorts- all new underneath but a bit rough on top. Plan is to use it this summer the over winter months go for a strip down!

For goodness sake, when offering the arches up did he never think "maybe not?" Terrible.

Last thurs, new front wheel bearing and coil overs fitted. Now got clutch slave cylinder waiting to go in. Decided to go whole hog on front suspension so it's all brand new so have drop link, track rod ends, and lower ball joints waiting to go on too. Plus the other front wheel bearing. So all all will be working rather well. Fingers crossed

Will give that a try. Cheers

I've had my cousin look at it and he thinks the seals are away. Car has been sitting for 6 years and clutch pedal wasn't coming all the way back up without help. Now there is no pressure at all. Best to try slave only first?

Cheers guys. Going to try local factor tomorrow then ebay it if need be. Cheers

Hi there, I'm looking for these 2 parts and wondering if I should consider 2nd hand. It's for a 94 vr so would parts from any other versions suit? Many thanks

That's interesting an 8 directly beside ) converts to a smiley, lesson learned . 1800 vag turbo from s3, leon etc was what I was meaning.

If turbo charging the vr costs £5-6k , if I were in the same quandary I have a feeling I'd start looking at 20v turbo (1.8) type engine swap. Would this cost the same sort of money or more or less? I realise the desire may be to keep the vr engine but if 300bhp is the target? Just my 2p.

I never thought this was that effective on the vr. Has this changed since I was last "on the scene"? - a while ago!