KarmannVR6

Hope the pic makes it a bit clearer.

Hi folks After bleeding the clutch on my vr with a pressure bleeding kit, i've noticed a leak from one of the two pipes/unions that supply fluid to the abs pump. They attach horizontally to the right side of the reservior. The majority of the pipe is metal but the last 2 inchs are rubber i think, and these rubber pipes attach to the reservoir. Basically i was wondering if anyone knows how to replace the rubber section of pipe. They are joined to the metal pipe via a union and i cant see how you undo it. (hope this makes sense) Cheers.

Best way to tell if the head gasket is going is to do a compression test. A garage wont charge you much for this, alternetivly buy a compression tester and do it yourself, they cost about 15 quid. I would recommend doing this before you shell out on parts.

Just below the dizzy or coil pack lives the thermostat housing. Bolted on to the cylinder head by three hex bolts, it has three hoses going to it and has three sensors in it (lots of threes). Sensors are yellow, black and blue. Drain the cooling system by removing bottom rad hose. Disconnect hoses from the housing and wires to sensors. Undo the three hexs bolts holding on the housing and pull it away from the cylinder head and the water pipe going across the front of the engine. Take the housing apart by undoing another three hexs bots and you'll see the thermostat. When replacing it, replace the o ring it sits in. Refitting is the reversal of removal. Refil cooling system through top rad hose. Thats it. Shouldn't take you more than an hour. (Yes, the cover over the sensors pulls off. Pull it in the direction of the battery. Should slide off with a bit of force. And yes the housing will just pull off of the water pipe)

Thanks for the comments folks. Looks like i'll be going for the GSF ones then. Cheers.

Hi all. In the middle of changing timing chains, clutch and head gasket on my VR. Got a Reinz gasket from ECP but they dont do head bolts. Dont fancy paying dealers price for the bolts and by comparison the GSF bolts seem very good value. What do you reckon. Is there gonna be a substantial difference in quality between the genuine VW ones and the GSF ones? Cheers.

Hi folks, this has proberbly been answered before but i couldn't find anything on a search. Basically my vr's gearbox is shot (diff i think) and i'm lookin for a replacement. Are all vr6 gearbox's the same e.g passat, golf, vento, corrado? Are there are any differences in the ratios or are they all identical?

Does anyone know if an early golf vr6 ecu part no. 021 906 258 A, would work on my corrado? My ecu number is 021 906 258 B. If not what other number would work, or do i need to find one with the exact same number? Cheers.

Yeah, ive got an imobiliser.

I had the same problem. Proberly not the leads. Just a fiddely job. Try pushing untill you feel the click, if the tool goes over the lip just try twisting it off. Just a case of trial and error i think. But the tool is designed to turn off the lead once it is in place.

Ive changed the relay with no success. Am i right in thinking the fuel pump primes for a moment when the ignition is turned on then goes off untill the engine is started? If so what could be making the fuel pump stay on? ive reset the ecu, but still the pump tries to supply fuel to an engine which isnt running, plus a upsetting click click click from the relay. Anyone got any ideas?

When you feel the click twist the tool round 90 degrees and pull it out. it should come out and leave the lead on the plug.

Been doing some work on the vr over the past couple days, and have had the battery removed. Connected it up today and started the car. It started ok however if i leave the ignition on position 2 without starting the car the blue relay number 67 clicks rapidly and i can hear the fuel pump whiring away. Basically it seems that the fuel pump is supplying fuel to an engine which isnt running. Is the relay shot or have i done somthing to the ecu by disconecting the battery? Thanks.

Dont know about the lifters, but as for the mud flaps i think answer is yes you can get proper mud flaps. I was behind a C the other day that had some. They looked like OE. Have a word with your local stealer, i would have thought you can still get them.

Ended up doing it myself. Wasn't too bad. Got an OE matrix for £25. Replacing the matrix itself was pretty easy. The time consuming bit was getting to it. Took me two days to get the dash out and back in. Thanks for all the advice folks.

Thanks. Finally got 'em off. Just took a bit of persistance with the hammer!

Hi all. Started the job of replacing the driveshafts and cv's on the car today. However im having problems getting the front discs off. I've removed caliper etc. hub nut and small locating screw but the buggers wont move. Beaten them with a hammer but no movement. Ive started damageing the discs now which i want to re use, so i thought id post to see if i've missed somthing. Any advice? :(

Long story really. Basicaly ive been trying to track down a strange scraping noise and vibration on aceleration. Im pretty sure its transmission related. I'm thinking if the driveshafts dont cure it then maybe its a knackered diff.

Thanks, i'll widen my search for a good shafting!

My C's driveshafts need replacing. Just wondering if the golf vr shares the same driveshafts as the corrado?

Thanks. Theres a blue conector on the inside of the driver side wing with no sensor in it. Is it related?

Mine ends with oil temp. then starts again, never shows outside temp. Odd.

How do i get it to show outside temp?

Ever scine ive had my vr its never showed the outside temp reading on the MFA. It shows mpg, average speed etc. but ends with the oil temp. Didnt even realise it was ment to show outside temp. until i read a post on here. Is this normal?

Thanks guys, dash coming out tomorrow then. As for joining the pipes together, i used a piece of copper pipe bent into a U and put a length of garden hose over it. Then just joined it up and with jubilee clips.