daveh

Just make sure the queens head is facing out - don't what to get done for defacing the monarchy after all :wink:

As some have mentioned before - this hasn't turned out not to be the easy fix I had hoped. My pin worked loose in a few weeks as well. I then removed the big spring that helps to hold the wheel up as you adjust the height. Just rotate (anti-clock) the chrome-ish end cap by using a phillips screwdriver in the square hole. Helps if you position the steering wheel so you can work through one of the holes. I then tapped the pin back in (again) and superglued a 5 pence piece over the top. A 5p is small enough so that everything can be reassembled without fouling. Unfortunately this fell off a couple of weeks later. Maybe I didn't degrease the area properly. Anyway, I've now purched some bostik resin-type glue from Halfords. Comes in two parts which you mix together. This time I made sure that the area was thoroughly degreased and also sanded both parts slightly to give something to key into. (touching wood) all is absolutely fine now.

Couldn't get either the new or original abs controller to 'boot up' after cleaning the contacts again. Decided to put the car back together (with the old contoller) as I was fed up with drving around without the trim, and the MOT isn't until May. Had a long trip today - 210 miles - on the return leg the abs light was off. Since then I've started the car 3 times and each time the light goes out! I know this is the sixty-four thousand dollar question, but does this mean I've fixed the problem? Just wondered if others have had the same experiences, and if so, did the light come back. Thanks.

:oops: Forgot to mention that the lower shelf is also held in by a large trim fixing in the passenger footwell. You'll need a largish flat bladed screw-driver.......Sorry!

Thats what I was afraid off! I also noticed that when I re-fitted the controller I forgot the black plastic cover that goes over the plug/socket. I don't suppose this could have anything to do with the light, could it??

To get to the abs controller, just remove the 4 or 5 screws that hold the shelf in below the glovebox. Screws located along the front edge and down the transmission tunnel. Pull firmly, and this shelf will come out. The cover just in front of the passenger door, on the left hand side of the passenger footwell is held in by two screws. Remove these and the cover and the abs controller is held in by a bracket and three fixtures. Plug located on top of controller. Job done :wink: .

Sorry, not quite sure which part you're on about. I've sprayed contact cleaner onto both parts (male and female) where the abs controller plugs into the loom (passenger foot-well). I then plugged and unplugged it a few times to try and clean the contacts. Left it a few hours to dry and then plugged it in and turned the key - light still on :cry: . In other words, I've only cleaned the multi-point connector to the abs controller - if that makes sense??

Howdy all, After finding out on here how to remove my abs controller (thanks guys :wink: ), I went ahead and had a look at mine. The contacts were very 'blue' and corroded. Probably from the leaky screen (new one just fitted) and the leaky air inlet chamber gasket (above the cabin fan, repaired). Now as the car is deffinately dry, thought I would worry about the abs light. I have some electrical contact cleaner from Maplin, but that hasn't cured the light. I also have a 'new' (certainly appears unused) controller from eBay. Again, fitted that and the light is still on. When I was playing about with the second controller, I may have plugged it in and removed it with the ignition on :oops: . Would this have damaged it in any way?? I also wondered if there was anything (ECU etc) that needed resetting to maybe cure the problem? Any help gratefully received!

Another happy punter with one of Gavin's (h100vw) headlight looms. Loom arrived very quickly, well made and well packaged. I also changed the bulbs from Phillips +30% to Osram +50%, and the combined difference is simply stunning on full beam and much improved on dipped. I too have done the lupo wiper mod, and now driving in winter doesn't seem half as bad. Well then..... what are you all waiting for!

My 2.0 16v used to cut out on me occaisonally. Also felt like it had a random flat spot, and sometimes had trouble starting. Eventually traced to the dizzy (after checking that the hall sender was OK). Replaced dizzy (not just cap) and now (touch wood) all OK.

Howdy all, Had the tracking on my C done 16,000miles (18 months) ago, just before I got a new set of tyres. Pretty soon I realised that the car was not perfectly set-up. On the motorway especially, I noticed that the wheel had to be held slightly to the left for the car to track straight. If I moved the wheel to exactly straight ahead, I gently changed lanes to the right. This happened whether the camber of the road was to the left or to the right (checked by driving on the wrong side of the road, and over some sections of motorway, where the rain is drained to the central reservation and not the hard shoulder). I rang the garage, and they asked me to bring the car back. I was really busy at the time, and never got around to booking it in again. After a couple of months it seemed a little churlish to return, so I just put up with it. Now then, whilst having my new exhaust (don't get me started on that one!), I asked them to check the tracking, whilst also explaining the problem I had. To cut a long story short, the car is still the same. I've rung the garage, and they say that it is due to the road camber and not the tracking. Any ideas????

Just noticed this miltech manifold http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/vw%20corrado/exhausts.html This seems to replace everything - engine to CAT - but I guess is more difficult to fit (as mentioned earlier).

Please don't laugh :wink: ...... Just so I know what I am dealing with - there are two main components between the engine and the CAT?? - Exhaust manifold and downpipe?? If I go to the trouble of buying parts and tools, clearing my garage out to make space to work, and then beg for help form all sources (including this foum!) to change my exhaust manifold myself, should I replace the (original) downpipe as well?? I don't like throwing money away (obbviuosly), but it is nice to do things properly - and I hate taking stuff apart twice when once would do!

Unfortunately I'm not looking forward to the bill for labour (or the option of a DIY). The dealer who fitted the zort said that you have to drop the front suspension to get the manifold off (true??). As the bill for labour will be high, I don't mind spending on the part to get a good result - and hopefully not have to do this again for a very long time. Any recommendations for a new manifold??

I had a magnex (cat back) fitted today, and had to return twice to get the thing to fit properly! Firstly it banged big time over bumps. Turned out the system had moved slightly, and it was catching on the rear beam. Fitter just slackened off the joints and moved it all up a bit. Then I returned because it was banging on the rear trim cut-out. Not as loud as before, but still bloody annoying (and it looked awful). This was 'fixed' by zip-tying the exhaust rubbers to change how it hung. I'm still a bit disappinted actually - what with the reputation magnex have for a so-say perfect fit. The pipe still doesn't sit in the middle of the cut-out like my (rusty and blowing) OE one used to!