nephilim

Cheers, what photo were you talking about RW1? Because the spoiler was rising evertime OK I was hoping that the motor would be OK but I guess everything's now pointing to a problem there. It's a bugger because it looks difficult to get to and remove.

OK I've been experimenting and these are my findings - 1. The spoiler mechanism doesn't feel too restricted. I've applied some wd40 but to me if feels pretty free, especially when going down where there's no resistance at all. 2. The fuse is blowing when the spoiler tries to lower. It raises fine but blows when I pull up at a junction. Replacing the fuse and accelerating will cause the spoiler to rise only for it to blow when it attempts to lower again. 3. I have disengaged the motor from the spoiler mechanism itself and the fuse still blows. 4. I have unplugged the power to the spoiler motor/gearbox in the tailgate and then the fuse doesn't blow which means I can use my sunroof. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I guess the problem could be a jam or issue in the motor / gearbox but it looks pretty well sealed to me, I can't see how I can easily get into it. Cheers, Dave.

Ok I answered my own question by pulling out the black knob i was able to manually move the spoiler. Should the knob always be pulled out to allow for free movement? I can't see how the spoiler would move otherwise or am I missing something? The spoiler's getting a little stuck at the lower position especially when rising - it's lowering under very little pressure. I'll work some wd40 and lubricant into it now. Dave OK stupid question time - how do you manually wind it up and down? Is it the black plastic knob on the gearbox that you turn? If so it doesn't look very strong?

OK stupid question time - how do you manually wind it up and down? Is it the black plastic knob on the gearbox that you turn? If so it doesn't look very strong?

Yes I've had a good look (time allowing) and I cannot find anything of interest. There is a switch but as I say it activates the headlight height, no the spoiler. Due to work and the early dark nights I'll have to leave it until Saturday at which point I will have a good dig around and look at the spoiler mechanism and report on how I get on. Cheers, Dave.

Weird, it's a 93 VR6. I have the service book and loads of history and that shows that the car was sold by a dealer in Dundee which I think just about counts as the UK? :) On p.46 of the Owner's Manual (showing off now) it clearly shows the headlight range adjuster switch as being under the dash near my right knee. I have a blanking plate next to the light switch with a note on it telling me to use unleaded. P.47 kindly mentions the Extending Rear Spoiler switch but doesn't tell you where to find it! Dave.

Not sure about any noises (it's hard to tell from in the car) but I managed to blow fuse no.3 on the way home from work when the spoiler made an attempt to go down. I think I'll need to take the tailgate apart and have a proper look around the mechanism when I have some more time. On an aside can someone tell me where the illusive button is to make the spoiler go up and down? I've heard that it's down by the fusebox but the only button under there is the one that adjusts the height of the headlights. I've looked in the owners manual and it talks about the switch and even provides a photo but it fails to show where it is! Cheers, Dave.

Yep I'm now having exactly the same problem - good old fuse 16! Mine's also blowing when the spoiler tries to move up and down. I haven't had a good chance (time) to chase it down but any pointers would be appreciated. Cheers.

Thanks to Father Xmas giving me a new camera I can provide a photo! If you look at the attached you will see the crack in the centre console. It's this section that I need to replace in the middle of the dash. Doesn't look too tricky, I just do not know where to start. I was hoping someone might be able to make a suggestion or point me in the direction of some instruction.

Cheers for that. I will try to take a look at the yellow sender tomorrow if that's the one connected to the temp gauge on the dash. The temperature gauge does rise a little but only when I'm stuck in traffic. The oil temperature works fine (app. 90-100 deg on a normal run) and the oil pressure seems consistent with the oil temp so I don't think the engines running cool. I will see if they have the part in Camberley Auto Factors. Does it just pull out of the block?

Silly question - are the blue / black senders on the front of the block to the rhs of the dipstick? I can see two correctly coloured connectors here and there's a yellow one to the left of them and a blank to it's left? My temperature gauge is also non-functional (hardly moves at all) so I thought I would also try to diagnose the problem.

Can anyone please help me with some guidance on removing / replacing the plastic centre console on a 93 VR6? My current one is cracked but I have another from a scrapeyard that can go on in it's place. Obviously the stereo, gauges, ash tray etc. are going to have to come out. Any piccies or advice would be welcome! On an aside what's the best service / workshop book to buy? Was a Haynes ever produced for the Corrado? Thanks!

Just to finish this off. My VR6 failed it's MOT at VW (Basingstoke) for a couple of reasons, one of them being the emissions test - the CO2 was too high. I wasn't happy with the service at the garage because amongst other things I asked them to reset the ECU but I had one of their engineers tell me it couldn't be done. When speaking to them it became clear they didn't have a clue. Anyhow it maintained vwsh. Took the car to my local MOT place and again it failed on the emissions so on went the CAT and it passed the MOT. So it looks as if the CAT maybe is required to get it through the test, I'm sure my engine's running OK. The only thing now is that since the CAT's gone back on the idling's much rougher so I assume the ecu will need to be reset to account for this. Car goes into the bodyshop next month for a new wing and the bonnet and driver's door to be resprayed. Got a good price locally (Camberley) so will report on the quality of the work. Dave

Hello everyone, Just been trying to change the bulbs on my "new" Corrado and it seems that it's not the 5 minutes job I was hoping it would be. Managed to change the passenger side bulb OK but I cannot easily remove the drivers side bulb due to the air intake and housing beneath it. Am I missing something? Car is a 93 VR6. Also, was wondering if there was a way of raising the spoiler on the car when parked in order to clean up it properly? Cheers, Dave.

I went to the MOT station but the wait was a little too long so I didn't bother in the end. My VR6 is going into VW next Friday for an annual service (to keep up the vwsh) so I will get them to MOT as well. I have the cat from the previous owner so hopefully even if it fails on emissions they'll be able to somehow fit it / pass it. Previous owner has told me that the car has passed the last two mot emission tests (easily) without the cat so will have to see!

I too have a k reg, decatted VR6 that I've recently bought. It's MOT is also due so I am wondering the same things...I think I might take it down the MOT centre tomorrow so I'll report how I get on. I think K is a year after CATS became compulsory so technically the car should have one. My understanding is that as long as the car passes an emissions test though you should be OK. I would add that my car's been decatted for a few years and has alsways easily passed these tests but then the engine was rebuilt 10k miles ago and I think it's running very cleanly.