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Being trying to order some parts for my 2.0 litre 16valver through Dealer but having great difficulty, problem is trying to describe and identify the parts.....very hard folkswithout part numbers....I'm looking for the Vacum Tube (at least that's what I call it) and connectors, one end of this white tube is attached to an angled rubber connector and attaches to the Throttle Housing, the other end of the tube goes into a fabric or cloth coated short rubber pipe or tube that attaches on to your air filter housing...the Vacum pipe is about a 14 inches long I guess. Mine has just broken, the plastic tube had got very hard, it's just fatigued with age, the connectors are also split and torn so I really want to replace those too, car doesn't run too well with Vacum leaks..... I'd like to replace them with Volkswagen parts. Problem is that on ETKA the Vacum Section and the Air Filter section illustrations listed for the 2.0 litre 16valve do not correspond to that on my car...not the first time I've experienced this problem with ETKA and the 16Valve model, I believe my Air Filter Housing Assembly is listed under Air Cleaner 1.8 litre? I don't have access to ETKA so anyone that could confirm the part numbers for me it would be most appreciated. Mine is a 1992 Model, engine code 9A. Ta

Thanks Guys for the replies and in particular Neale's comprehensive one, I'm not sure if there is a balance valve on the 16v, is this the brake equaliser thing? and what way sould it be again? I'm afraid I dont have anyone that can help me with the bleeding excercise so I'll have to stick to my one man ez bleed kit which connects to the Master and your spare tyre to give the pressure, would it be safe to use the one man kit with the engine running or would the pressure from the pump and the pressure from the ez bleed connected up to the Master and spare tyre as specified be too much pressure? Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, Neale, have you fitted that Master Cylinder yet and did it make a difference? I'm going to bleed the whole system again this weekend, I never tried bleeding with the Engine Running, what's the theory behind this? Surely it's bad for the ABS Pump?

There is quite an amount of travel in my brake pedal (2.0l 16v with ABS) before the brakes begin to bite, I'd say 3 inches or so of excess travel. The brakes are quite good when they engage but I recall the pedal being better. The Pedal doesn't feel at all spongy, it's just theres quite a gap in the travel before the brakes engage. I recently had to remove the ABS Pump for repair (in the end it wasn't necessary as the fault was a Relay Switch) but the brakes have been unsatisfactory since. No other work was done to the Brakes. I have bled them numerous times both with the Ignition on and ignition off but it doesn't make any difference in the result, it hasn't tightened up the pedal. I am getting a prefectly good flow of cean fluid and there is no evidence of any air in the tube when they are being drained. I am using the One Man Gunson Ezi-bleed Kit. I have also bled all the inlets and outlets of the ABS Pump and the Master Cylinder and there is no evidence of any air there either. I have bled the brakes both starting with the caliper nearest the Master and starting with the caliper furthest from the master, it doesn't make any difference to the result. Any ideas how I might improve this would be appreciated. It's currently preventing me from taking the MOT as I sense it won't pass. Cheers

Yes, two connectors, one on the Pump itself and the other on the Hydraulic Modulator, this is the yoke the Pump sits on, the unit with the brake pipes cominng out of it. I am afraid I cannot offer any help to dave16v other than to follow the advice suggested in these postings. Cheers

It's been like this for some time, abs light came on one day and ABS became activated when I pushed the pedal, i.e brake pedal started pumping and there was quite a surge in pressure. I realised then there was a fault in the ABS system but really didn't know where it originated. ABS hasn't worked for over a year now. I recently did a Diagnostics on the ABS and two errors were returned, the one referred to in my original posting and the Brake Pedal position sensor, I took the Brake Pedal Sensor out and cleaned the contacts, replaced it and ran the Diagnostics again, this time no error was returned, just the error about the ABS Pump Signal being outside specification. I will check the wiring connections to the Hydraulic module again to see if that does any good. Thanks

My ABS Light goes off after the normal start up sequence, as soon as I drive off it comes on again and stays on. I did a Diagnostics check and the following code was returned; ABS Hydraulic Pump 16-00 Signal outside specifications Does anyone know what this code means? Is there any other checks I should make before taking out the Pump and putting in a replacement? The ABS Controller is fine I believe and there is no evidence of any corrosion on the contacts. Any advice appreciated

Thank you all for your contributions and suggestions. No I'm not confused really, just terrified.....no I'm only joking, it's not a job I'd tackle and there are many that I would. I owned a Lancia once and I removed the front shock, I didn't have the appropriate equipment, the spring flew up in the air, glanced of the side of my face, (left a fair bruise) and ended up about 50 feet away in the Garden 3 houses down.....lesson learnt, safety first. Cheers Guys

Thanks Guys, I'll have the Garage look at that, I assume it's not a job I could tackle myself? The shock really needs to come out to see that everything is tight/OK, would that be right? Cheers

well, it's woth a look but I'm not too hopeful

I have a knocking noise in the rear suspension of my 2.0l 16vlaver, the local garage diagnosed rear axle bushings. These have just been replaced but the noise continues. I noticed in the cold dry weather the noise was very obvious especially in the first few minutes of driving. Furthermore it doesn't seem to be making any noise in the wet weather leading me to believe that it's some form of rubber bushing which when it gets wet doesn't make any noise. Does this seem to make sense? I had all 4 shocks replaced some months ago all round, could one of the rear shocks be loose? The noise is coming from the left (passenger) rear wheel area. Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers

Does anyone know an OEM Part Number or the correct Bosch Part Number for the Voltage Regualtor for a Bosch Alternator? Mine is a 16Valver, 9A Engine. I've been supplied the wrong part twice already...The one that was on mine was an OEM part, Huco was the manufacturer, part no. 130504, my local Motor Factors cannot cross reference the part and VW tell me it will take a week or so to get it...I really can't wait that long Thanks.

Yes, my Drivers Mirror (Right Hand side) has also just been broken and they also managed to break the motor casing in several places, the bar that the mirror pivots on is completely broken. The Motor still works!! No other damage to the Mirror though. I have a Glass but now need a Motor Unit/Motor Casing Assembly. Anyone with any spare parts I will gladly pay a reasonable amount. Many thanks

Just a couple of points to add to k-rado's (Kieran's) good advice about fitting a new slave cylinder... 1) When you remove the old slave there should be a sleeve, green in colour on the pushrod (the brass/gold coloured piece external to the piston), this sleeve should be taken off and fitted to the pushrod of the new cylinder, clean it first and note the order in which it is fitted on the old cylinder, the wider end should face the piston housing and the narrower end will rest up against the white 'stopper' and the end of the pushrod. You'll recognide the sleeve easily, it's made of silicone rubber and is moulded in a concertina like manner. I'm not sure it's entirely necessary to do this because replacement cylinders don't come with this sleeve but it's best I think to fit the replacement in the same manner as the old. The one I fitted was an ATE Cylinder and it was not accompanied by any sleeve. Perhaps one of you out there could confirm if it's necessary to fit this or not. 2) A Gunson one man brake/clutch bleeding kit is a great investment and really invaluable for these type of jobs, you can pressure test the system before you start bleeding at all and this will highlight problems with leaks. There not expensive, maybe £25 or so and makes the job so much easier. Cheers

The Pedal on my 16v has got progressively soft in the last few days, the travel has also got noticeably shorter and it's getting difficult to get 1st gear when I start the car in the morning. In addition I'm losing quite an amount of fluid but after a fairly thorough check there is no evidence of leaks externally, around the master clyliner or around either of the slave cylinders, I think there's two. Could the fluid be leaking internally? Any advice appreciated.

My 1992 16V was recently broken into, well actually the thieves didn't get in because of the strength of the good old VW Doors, just wrenced it down as much as they could....Being in bad humour at not suceeding in breaking into my car, they did some damage to other parts of the car, took the wiper arms front and rear, removed some roof trim, broke the aeriel mast, removed badges etc. etc. I've nearly replaced all the parts. When I went to fit the replacement Beesting screw in Aeriel Mast my local VW Garage supplied, I was disappointed to see that it was quite different to the original, I've noticed it's far narrower at the base and it weighs about as much as a feather.. it also doesn't fit very well, it doesn't thread home very well and tends to point quite skyward as opposed to the original which tended to have a much lower profile. The Dealer tells me this is the only replacement available, Is this correct? From what I can see the replacement supplied is also fitted to Golf and Polo Models? Is the original unavailable now, was it made by VW or who made it? Would any of you have a part number? Thanks

How difficult is it to replace an Exhaust Manifold on a 16V and what replacement would you fellow enthusiasts recommend? I've got a 1992 16V with a cracked exhaust manifold and was advised to replace soon, getting quite a bit of leakage, original manifold of course. I'm thinking Stainless Steel, Janspeed or Milltek. Any of you had any experience of these and where's a good place to purchase. Any other suggestions? Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, a buddy of mine checked out the Grille/Badge suitability thing, there aren't variants of the 16V Badge, there's just one, there are variants I understand for the G60 and VR6 depending on the Grille. Yes there are two arms both with hooks at the end as you 've described but on my 3 slot Grille, there's only one cut out where one of the long arms can engage, weird isn't it? There is no cut out for the other arm to engage on and that's why I cant secure it, I could try of course to make a cut out on the Grille to secure the second arm or would Loctite hold it if I glued it into position at the front? Any more suggestions/ideas welcome...

Yes it sounds easy, I know but I'm having great difficulty fitting the 16V Grille Badge to the Grille of my Corrado. The badge is a Genuine one purchased from VW, part number is 535 853 679 a - QN5, that's the colour code for red. I understand where it sits at the front, it's getting it secured that's the problem. There are two long prongs at the back of the baadge at either end and a short one in the middle. Am I missing some form of bracket to fit it? The Grille is 4 slot, it's a 1992 model. Back of Grille has one cut out section where one of the prongs could engage but I can't see how the other prong or the short one in the middle engages. Perhaps the Grille is somewhat distorted by heat :? Any ideas?

Can any of you help in identifying a part for me to order for my 16V? These are a type of cable fixing, they secure part of the wiring loom to one of the Heater Matrix Hoses. There are two large ones attached to one of the Heather Matrix Rubber Hoses, they grip the loom one one side and attach or clip onto the Hose as well, their purpose is to secure the loom in position. There are also a further 3 smaller ones securing the loom further down the metal pipe in the centre of the engine bay. I'm wondering can they be purchased from VW, what are they called, is there a part Number? Both mine are in bits. Cheers

Could any of you tell me the VW Part No. for the 16V Badge for the Rear? My local dealer is not the most reliable or informed. Thanks

I've been advised to change the oil on my 16v, there's 110k of genuine miles on the clock and it's never been done. I have a couple of questions for the more knowledgeable amongst you. Would I be advised to replace with Genuine VW Gearoil as per spec. in the Manual or replace with another brand?, I've heard Redline MT90 is good and more suited to tired boxes but I don't know any different. Any advise appreciated. Finally, do I need a pump to pump the oil in or can I fashion some form of hose to fill it? I understand the filling point is on the side of the box and requires the use of an Allen Key and isn't terribly accessible. Cheers

Thanks folks.

From checking recently there are a couple of sensors/lectrical connectors on the Air Filter Housing unit, left and right side but which is the Air Flow Meter? Thanks for the tip on cleaning the ISV.

Can one of you knowledgeable Tech persons tell me where the Air Flow Meter is located on a 2.0 16v? Presumably above the Air Filter Housing somewhere, How does one identify it? In addition, can/should the ISV be cleaned and how should this be done? Mine seems to have a lot of carbon inside it. Both of these were suggested as potential sources of a High Idle Problem I have (intermittent) when car reaches full operating Temp. Cheers