tattyrado

I'm having some trouble with my windows on my '92 G60. I've read loads of the previous threads about it but still need help. On the drivers side, my window is stuck 3/4 down. When I press the switch I can hear the control box in the back click and the motor in the door makes a click too. I've checked the wires between the switch and the motor, and current is passing through when the switch is pressed, but all I get from the motor is a little click. So whats wrong? Is the motor knackered? If so can I fix it or do I need to replace it, and how the hell do you get it out of the door once you've drilled the rivets out? Any help gratefully received, I've got a whole different problem with the passenger side one, but I'll try and tackle this one first.

I havn't got the proper tool so I'm just using some grips. Its turning fine, just not going back in at all.

I've been changing the rear pads on my G60, passenger side went smoothly but on the drivers side I've been winding the piston for an eternity but its just not going back in. Any ideas??

Nice one, thanks.

Hi, I'm just doing my back brakes and the caliper piston is almost all the way out. Just want to know whether its clockwise or anti-clockwise to wind it back in? Thanks in advance.

No Butterfly, I wasn't there, nice to know I'm not alone though.

Excellent, how do I test mine? I'm hopeless at car electrics

Nice one people, thats all I needed to know. Time to work out why the central locking is disabled, better than buying one of those cheap universal kits off ebay which is what I was planning.

Thanks both, but what opperates it when its working properly? Like I said, I havn't got central locking.

The fuel flap locking thing was jammed in the locked position on my G60, have managed to seperate it from the flap as it was only held on with some very sticky pads. I've done a search on the forum and worked out that there is an acctuator somewhere in the boot to release it, but what I want to know is how does it work (when its working properly) because my car has no central locking, what is supposed to release the fuel flap? I didn't even know that it had a lock as it's never locked itself before, but my last rado had the clip snapped off with a bit jammed in the lock - a common fault then I guess.

Nice one Cazza, I've seen them go for more than that on ebay.

A mate has just pointed out that my rado claims to be "upercharged", some theiving little **** has tried to nick the badge and only succeeded in snapping the S off. :mad: Is ebay the only place left to find these badges and what should I use to stick a new one on so that the same won't happen again (although then they'll probably wreck the paintwork trying to get it off with a screwdriver I suppose).

Thanks, I'll try that

A bloke near me is selling a '78 mk1 golf, its a 1 litre, yellow, 54K and one owner from new. Its got the small rear lights and original metal bumpers (not mint). The car has just failed the MOT on rust in the rear inner arch and sills, its far from mint + has no tax or test. I just want to know what its worth (or if the rust in the arches means don't touch it) so I can make him an offer. Ta

Thanks, I'll go and do some research

On my quest to find a cheap spacious form of transport untill I can find a car I want that I can afford, I've found a Toyota hilux surf. Its cheap, got a MASSIVE boot and its local to me, only prob is the seller wants to keep his cherished plate. Being an import thats the only plate its ever had, so how would I, (and how much would it cost to) apply for a new plate. ASlso how long would it all take and what kind of plate would I be issued?

On the Welsh roads around where I live my G60 was averaging 19mpg overall. It was better on a long run obviouslly, but I never saw over 25mpg, part of the reason she had to go. I know nobody buys a vr for economy but I needed to know that I wasn't going to be spending even more on fuel than I was with the G60. I don't want one now anyway, damn I hate being so fickle.

Hardly economical but it does beat my g60. The advert just says 116,000 miles, tax, test and 4 good tyres £1800. What should I be looking for for that kind of money?

Ok so the rado has gone, I was about to buy a nice sensible family car with good fuel economy but I've spotted a mk3 vr6 in the local paper. It doesn't make up for the loss of my g60 but its better than a suburban car. Can anyone tell me the average mpg for one of these (realistic, not what vag quotes), surely its better than the g60.

I thought as much, was just clinging to straws. My mechanic has never changed 1 on a rado so cant quote a price, is it pretty much the same as a mk2 golf?

Bloody great month this is, first the heater matrix on my missus' mk2 GTI goes, yesterday my boiler broke so no heat or hot water in the house, and now its the turn of the rado. There's water leaking into my passenger footwell, I'm loosing coolant and the fan blows out steam instead of hot air. When the blowers on I can hear water sloshing around. I'm guessing its the matrix, any chance it could be anything else? If not how big a job is it, and what matrix should I use? I was told to replace the one in the mk2 golf with a mk3 matrix.

I think I've worked it out. Like I said, I'm not spending any money on this car. If the matrix goes I'll just bypass it again and cover the carpet in towels. One thing though, is the passenger at risk if the matrix goes? will their legs get covered in boiling water?

Its an old mk2 golf that I refuse to spent money on, it'll be dead soon anyway, I just need to know which pipes to connect to which if I ditch the valve.

I presume this is a similar set up to the rado, can anyone tell me what I need to do to replace the heater matrix bypass valve on a mk2 golf gti? I've heard that with a couple of bits of copper pipe and some jubile clips you can bypass it, problem is I havn't a clue what to join to what. I know this could cause the matrix to go but its a risk I'm willing to take, I want heat. Pics of the bits in question would be excellent if anyones got any.

I've checked the battery and its OK, I tried jumping it off a big leisure battery just incase but to no avail. I've beaten the crap out of the starter and solinoid but still nothing. Does anyone know the rough price of a new starter motor, and how long do you reckon it'll take me to fit it?