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Thanks David! I pretty much refurbished/replaced everything as it was in a pretty rough state. It passed it's MOT last week too and i'm really happy with it, especially the increased torque from making it 2 litres. bcstudent, I just used my standard KR crank pulley setup. I have one off a 9A block and it looks identical, certainly the pulley to drive the power steering pump is the same diameter as the KR one.

Yep, I replaced the naff three-pulley system with the 9A two-pulley system, as this was the only way to get the ZF pump with its different shaft offset to line up properly. The only parts you need for this swap are: 051 145 255 for the power steering pulley and 027 121 031 for the waterpump pulley.

Here's a picture of my setup. I got a ZF pump off ebay too and converted my KR setup to 9A when I rebuilt my engine. The ZF pump definitely has a different shaft offset to the early KR type and so I had to buy a couple of new pulleys to make it work, they were pretty cheap too.

I was quite surprised at how well it actually runs on the 1.8 settings. From what Vince was saying it's mainly at the top end that the current fueling setup would be a problem. Are you going for a 'nice 'n easy' break-in or a 'run it like you stole it' approach?

It's just running on plain 'ol K-Jet, with exactly the same fueling, timing etc as when it was a 1.8. It could do with a proper tune-up on a rolling road, but runs fine at the moment. I spoke to Vince about it and he suggested that I run it in for a 1500 miles before having it properly tuned.

Righty, thought i'd better update this thread seeing as how after a year of being off the road it's all working now :D The last problem I had was to fit the 2 litre oil pump gear, which is a larger diameter to the 1.8 gear. In retrospect, I should have thought of this when the block was re-bored as it simply requires enlarging the hole diameter at the front of the block. Anyhow, with a bit of patience and some grinding with my dremel the gear fitted nicely and oil did gush forth!. Ta, Andy

I've just had exactly the same problem with leaking coolant and it was just down to the fact that I hadn't got the oring seated properly when I re-assembled the coolant elbow. The two bolts dont need to be exessively tight for it to seal, (M5 or M6 cap heads IIRC), but I tightened them both progressively to try and ensure everything was kept 'square'.

The hose is probably not too expensive but you can probably get hold of one from a scrappy. The silver cover is just for heat protection. I've just re-fitted mine and it's a bit of a fiddley job, as where it plugs into the brake servo is right behind the fluid reservoir and a bit of the wiring loom.

It's the vacuum hose that also connects to the brake servo, i'd imagine it being ripped would make your brakes partially un-assisted.

Thanks for the replies chaps, i'll see how good it works when I re-fit it.

H8RRA, yep i'd thought about this and came to the conclusion that it wouldn't work, as it would mean that the driverside spring would permanently be pulled inwards. Plus, I don't remember taking anymore clips of the release cable, except the clamp for the passenger side spring. If anyone fancies 'poppin' their hood' and having a look, in the interests of solving this little mystery i'd appreciate it.

I've attached a few pics to try and make things a bit clearer, as you can see the release springs only really fit one way round, so how the flipping heck does the driverside one work?? :confused4: :confused4: :confused4:

Thanks for the pic task 8), looks like i'll have to try and turn the driverside spring around, although i'm not quite sure how as they only really fit one way.

The bonnet release mechanism obviously works by pulling the two wire springs attached to the slam panel inwards to release the bullet shaped pins on the bonnet. This works fine on the passenger side spring as the release cable is pulling the spring in the right direction, i.e inwards away from the bonnet pin. If then the driverside spring is also connected to the release cable it will be pulled in the wrong direction. If anyone can explain how the driverside spring connects to the release cable i'd be mostly very happy!

On mine, the 1.8 and 2.0 gears and pumps are both splined, but the 2.0 gear won't fit through the hole in the KR block, it will fit through from the inside though but i'm not sure if there's enough diametrical clearance to accomodate it. I should have sorted this out before really, but nevermind. Windage tray sounds like a good idea too. How much would you want for that TSR crank btw?, I may be interested in it for my next build.

David, when I meant oversized pistons I meant in the sense that, if I was to have the 9A block re-bored i'd need to use first oversize 9A pistons, which I couldn't seem to get. ETKA lists 1st and 2nd oversize pistons for the KR, but none for the 9A. So the easiest way was to just use standard 9A pistons and overbore the KR. The oil pump is a funny one. The 2.0 oil pump must run slower than the 1.8 pump as the driving gear on the intermediate shaft is smaller than the driven gear on the oil pump, the 1.8 pump is the otherway round indicating it must run much faster. The oil pumping gears in the 2.0 pump are also much larger than the 1.8 pump, so it should in theory have a higher capacity. I just wonder if both pumps actually flow the same but in different ways, i.e high capacity/low speed for the 2.0 vs low capacity/high speed for the 1.8? I can't see as the 2.0 has vastly different oil requirements than the 1.8?. I wonder what would happen running the 2.0 pump on the 1.8 gearing :?

Thanks chaps, sharing the wealth and all that :) Henny, 0.5g difference thats pretty impressive 8), my mums scales only do 1g increments and to be honest they're a bit pants...perhaps thats why her baking tastes a bit funny :)

Good question :), I was actually planning to use a 9A block, and even went to the extent of stripping it and cleaning it. Unfortunately though, I couldn't seem to get hold of any oversized pistons for it, VW don't list any on ETKA and despite Kolben and the like listing them in their catalogues they were seemingly unobtainable. David, if you get chance to take some piccies, I'd be very interested to see if TSR have indeed plugged up the oil sprays and also how they've managed to fit the larger 2.0 oil pump driving gear.

To be honest, there's a few things that in retrospect i'd have done differently, but as usual it's always down to lack of time and money, plus it's the first engine i've rebuilt so i'll know what i'm doing a bit more for next time!

Cheers Steve. I didn't weigh the pistons individually as they were already connected to the conrods, these assemblies weighed in at about 905g each with as much as a 10g difference between them. I suppose in the scheme of things though, that a 10g difference is only about 1% of the combined conrod and piston weight, probably not an issue for this kind of engine. However, when the pistons were relieved a bit I did try to keep the total weights as close as possible to match them up, but only within about 2-3g and I was only using my mums digital baking scales. :lol: This engines just going to be a standard N/A one, I was planning on building a 16VG60, but just can't really afford to at the mo...next time :)

Thought i'd better share what i've done today as i'm a bit closer to getting my C back on the road. :D So after a bit of work my KR block is now re-assembled as 2 litres and also includes the oil squirters that most 2.0 conversions plug up. Whilst I have no doubt that the oil squirters can be safely removed, they were obviously deemed necessary by VW and in addition to providing extra lubrication to the small ends they probably reduce the risk of detonation when using unleaded petrol, especially as my valver has no knock control. The first thing I did was rinse out the main oil gallery that supplies the main bearings, crankshaft and oil squirters as it was full of swarf from tapping out the old oil squirter holes. There are two 14mm plugs at each end of the gallery that need to be removed, these were easily drilled through and then prised out. I used some paraffin for flushing the gallery out and it worked very nicely, taking with it loads of evil engine destroying swarf :twisted: . Once this was done, the gallery was then plugged back up, this bit is quite critical as if these plugs fall out, so does all the lubrication for the crankshaft etc :shock:. I used 9/16 imperial plugs for this as it was the closest I could get, with a bit of loctite 638 retaining compound for good measure, hammered them in and jobs a goodun! The oil sprays were then dry fitted and found to interfere slightly with the shape of the block casting, in retrospect it would have been easier to grind this away when doing the other grinding work to the block, but as i'd cleaned all the swarf away it was less messy to just chamfer the corner of the oil squirter instead. The oil squirters were then screwed in place with a little threadlock to secure. I thought it'd be plain sailing from here, but no such luck. As it happens, the face where the oil squirters sit is slighly inclined by a couple of degrees towards the bore, with respect to the top face of the block. On the 9A block the squirters sit parallel to it. This slight inclination causes one side of the oil squirter to sit very slightly higher up the cylinder wall and as a result the piston skirt hits it as it nears BDC. The piston skirts are already relieved sufficiently to accomodate the oil squirters when used in a 9A, but need to be relieved by a few mm more when used in the KR. As each piston skirt was relieved slightly, they were then installed and checked for interference with the squirters. If all was ok then the big end caps were torqued down properly to finish. I hope somebody finds this info useful as it's a pretty straight forward mod to do, saying that, I haven't actually run the engine yet and I still have a slight oil pump problem to sort out. :) I'll update when it's sorted.

Righty then!, After a quick word with Vince at Stealth this morning I now have the answer to my question. Apparently the oil jets when using a KR block for a 2 litre conversion are simply removed. This is standard practice by Stealth, TSR and others apparently and despite VW obviously intending these oil squirters to be there, have had no engine problems with doing this. The resultant holes for the removed oil squirters are then tapped and plugged with an M10x1.5 grubscrew and a bit of threadlock to secure. Conveniently though, the oil squirters for the 9A block (which are of a different design to the KR ones) use an M10x1.5mm pitch banjo type design, which now fit nicely into the newly tapped holes. This is good news as it means I can obviously keep my oil sprays :D All this threading has left loads of swarf in the oil gallery from where the oil sprays are fed from, so i'll be flushing this out over the next couple of days and i'll post some more pics when i'm done. Stay tuned!!

I feel a phonecall to Stealth is probably on the cards for monday then :)

Interesting stuff Steve I didn't know. Perhaps the jets are more critical for G60's then if this their only means of lubrication.

People and their precious secrets :roll: Tis strange though that that Mk1 G60 engine built by stealth has had them removed, given that it's pumping out a fair few ponies.