striderwilson

Looking really good Karl.

I agree, my money is still on the fuel pump - a sticking pump causes the same symptons, but is nearly impossible to detect without a specific fuel pump check.

New suspension on, pics from inside and out.

Thanks double-6s, but I've got the kit off kadvr6 and its just what I need - only 18 months old and looks very clean. I'm going to try and get some more pics taken now the new suspension on, the ABS is fixed, the Rad has been replaced with new, and i've cleaned the interior - it looks spot on! 4nfana_c Yours looks smart, got pics with the new bumpers?

PM me your asking price KADVR6. If its not too much I could probably pick up aswell as I'm in Derby.

Yes, it has been lowered. And thats another thing I want to change. If anyone has an original set of springs / shocks in good shape I would be interested in buying them. The worst thing about it is that it seems very low at the back. Bilstein - probably not the best kit.

Yes, just sussed it.

Treated my vr6 to a good clean the other day. Then swapped the oil and did a few other bits and pieces. Thought I would post a few pics as I was quite pleased with the end result. I brought the car last summer as a second car, and was drawn to it because of its originality. It has 2 previous owners, a full VAG history, 78,000 miles and is in pretty good shape. The interior is spotless, and has the original radio, and first aid kit still in its selophane. There’s a few bits still to do, - a slow leak on the radiator (I have a new one waiting to go in) and I’m getting the ABS pump replaced next week as there’s a fault on mine. After that I’ll make a trip to the legendary Vince and make sure it’s running really sweet. Hope the pics come out ok. James 25.2.06 UPDATED BELOW with pics

KA' In 1989, my first car (don't laugh) was a Fiat Strada. I brought it for £90, and lasted 3 years. The one problem I had (apart from the terminal rust) was very similar to the one you are discribing. I would be bombing along the motorway one miniute, then all of a sudden the engine would die. Most of the time it would drop to about 20mph and just jerk along at that speed untill it cleared itself, or, I gave up and stopped and repeatedly restarted the car every 5mins until it would run smoothly. Sometimes it would continue to jolt back and forth unitil it came to a stop by itself. 2 or 3 garages looked at it but couldn't find anything wrong - they replaced the plugs, leads, dizzy cap etc - but nothing helped. Finally a back street 'specialist' found the problem - a sticking fuel pump. A new one fitted cost nearly twice the cost of the car. I have no idea if this is a possibility on a raddo, but should be considered. James

I'll have to check and let you know. PM me your address and email and i'll get back to you.

No idea how hard they are to strip - but new ones are normally sold on an exchange basis so it must be possible to repair all but the worst ones. How bad mine is I honestly don't know - so if you want it to play around with you can have it foc - let me know if you want to collect or me to post it.

Finally got the rack off and replaced it with a second hand one, and thankfully it has fixed the problem. The steering has been transformed! Also managed to get a second universal joint on the replacement rack, so if anyone wants to buy the spare UJ (or the kackerd rack for parts / refurb) then please let me know. I can post (at cost) or collection is fine - I live in Derby, just off the A50.

oh and CaiosG60 PWR, it is both ways, but from any position. If I turn the wheel to any position, then go to turn it back it will click / clunk straight away, as soon as I start to turn the wheel back.

Not like a relay, more like billinjahg60 says, a rubbery click or 'crack' that you can feel in the wheel, it feels like something breaks every time I turn the wheel - not nice, even at 10 years old. And yes, CaiosG60 PWR, it does sometimes catch you unaware in bends/roundabouts. Maybe I've just got to save up!

Just thought i'd update you guys, took the c to a local specialist, + he diagnosed it as a knackerd rack - no amount of adjustment would fix it. He quoted £390 for a new rack (from vw) and £120 fitting. Me being way smarter than the specialist, and not as rich, I told him I would source the rack, and let him fit it. :roll:. Two weeks later, and my £180 rack from euro car parts is the wrong one (and it cost £50 of the specialists' time to find that out) - wrong helix pitch apparently. :oops: ecp will refund the rack, but does any one know if I can get a good refurb unit?, or will I have to pay the full whack with the stealer?

Nice one Gavin, spot on with your diagnosis. It was the boot light not going out, - thanks.

Yeah, but Trabants never needed f******g alarms.

Every time I set my alarm, it goes off ! :x Brought my car around 2 months ago, its a 95 M VR6 with 75k and a full VW history. As far as I can tell everything is original, including the alarm, which I believe is Scorpion? ( rectangular fob, led in top left corner, two square buttons just below, a 3 pin socket on the left of the fob, and a switch on the right ). It all worked fine to start with - one plip and the doors would lock, sunroof and windows close, and the alarm was armed. Then, for no apparent reason, one plip will lock the doors and start to close the windows etc but the alarm will start screaming after about 3 secs. I've looked at the other posts, but cant find anyone who has had the same fault, though I did try to 'reprogram' the alarm without any effect. Does anyone know whats going on???

For anyone who has a heater that only works on position 4, - I have 3 spare thermal fuses (I brought 5 through work). If you want one pm me your address and I will send one on, FOC. Just remember, they are thermal fuses so be carefull if you try to solder them on. There is a superb link on this topic from a couple of other members that shows exactly what to do.

Anyone seen these chips on ebay? They are around £60, and available for various engines inc 2.8 +2.9 vr6. The seller is asking for your vin no so he can match the chip properly, and has mostly very good feedback. Anyone tried them? Are they likely to be any good? They are being sold in Germany by Fairchip, but are available to be posted to Europe, they are listed as 'tuningchip'.

billinjahg60, it doesn't seem to be coming from the shocks - they seem quite sturdy. Also they were changed (along with the top mounts) about 18 months ago - so they would be failing very early. The uj sounds a possibility though - anyone else had this problem?

Hi folks, Got a rubbery 'click' from my wheel each time I change direction on my 95 vr6. With the car stationary (and running) if someone moves the wheel approx 2" side to side, I can feel the click on the tie rods (?), especialy the LHS, and it seems to come from the rack end rather than the wheel end. Will this be my rack or my rods that are on their way out? Sorry for the 'rubbery click' discription, but I can't think of how else to discribe it, but it happens EVERY time I steer from one side to the other. Thanks

Hi Supercharged, its the rear suspension that anoys me most - its lower than the front and as a result the car looks very sqat at the back. I know the standard suspension is very high at the back - but hopefully that will stop the door swinging back shut on my legs each time I try to get out of the car! If anyone has some original rear springs they don't need ( especially in the Derby area ) let me know how much you want for them.

Hi, My 95 VR6 was lowered by the previous owner and I want to get back to standard, for the ride, the looks and to retain the originality. Is it just a case of changing the springs? If so, where can I get them as all of the specialists only seem to sell 'sports / uprated / performance' springs which are lower. Also, does anyone have a 'blackberry' (purple) bonnet for sale (in good condition). Thanks