4stud

Corrado - 2l 16v standard with TSW Pace wheels Anglia - Easier to tell you what IS standard. The bootlid.

bristolbaron - What colour is your car? Seen someone a few months ago on the A4 Newton st lowe roundabout on the junction coming from Bristol heading Bath drection. Was it you? Heres mine

Sounds cheep! was well happy untill i times it by 16. FECK!

2 Tyres in 6 months cause i love it and cant stop drivin it! Only got cheepies as well mind. Discs were not lookin good when i bought the thing so i only got myself to blame. Heliosnoblow - They left it round the corner LOL Did the old shop window trick earlier and it's still not for sale, even if i do keep having to sweep bits of it off the drive.

14537 CAM FOLLOWER-HYDRAULIC CO 2.0 >95 6.50 Thats what i can find on there site. Any good?

Come on i need cheerin up! Had the car for about 6 months and the list is still growing. Crack in exhaust manifold (will weld up somewhen) Buckled rear wheel All exhaust silencers shattered inside (still cant get 1st silencer anywhere) Cat rattled (untill the insides came out the back) Front wheel bearing had to be changed 4 new tyres Discs need replacing Tappets tapping Thought wheel bearing went again but after removing the wheel the noise was at the top end of the drive shaft. Reversed it into the house and marked the bumper Need 2 new front tyres Had bad oil leak Had bad water leak (still loosing a bit) Come on surley i must win some kind of prize! As long as it's not another Corrado. :cry:

Hi guys, How much are a set of these and how easy are they to fit? Got all the tools just need some info on them. The car is a 2l 16v k reg. Craig.

GSF and ECP dont list this part. Looks like i gota give VW 90 quid. What a fu**in joke!!

93 k plate 2l 16v

Hello again, I have bought a cat and the big rear silencer for my car but cant have it fitted because the silencer in beetween is rotten. So i decided to phone good old VW to ask for a price. The bloke from VW couldn't believe it was 82 quid so imagine the look on my face! So does anyone know where i can get a pattern part cheap? I was thinking of putting a straight piece in but got told it wont pass emissions on the mot. Going to get very drunk now! Craig....

Had a go, got pi55ed off, took it to 2 local exhaust places 1 was to busy the other didnt want to do it. Going to silverstone tomorow all weekend and it looks as though i'm having a slow drive up there. AND WHEN I GET THERE AND I'M PUTTING UP MY TENT I BET IT WILL START TO RAIN!! ATB Mr bad luck 05 C J House!

Cheers guys, will take it off and give it a good shake as soon as i can. I might sound a bit phic now but whats a lamda probe? I take it thats the oxygen sensor. I'm only used to working on pre 1980 cars (less wires). Craig

Hi fellas, Got a 93 2.0 16v Corrado and it's not accelerating as it usually does. The cat is fecked on it and some times rattles like a biatch. It still drives fine and will still fly along but takes a while getting up to speed. Is this because the cat needs replacing? Every now and then it will be fine. I'm lost on this one so please help! Craig

Sorry bit mixed up. The lip broke up over time and not having enough antifreeze didn't help this. The alloy head will corrode though.

After a while looking for my water leak i finally found it. It was coming from the plastic tube that connects the top hose to the engine. Replaced it and this is what the old one looked like The inner lip had broke away so the seal was not seated properly. This was because the water/antifreeze mixture was incorrect (too much water) and over time had coroded this lip. So when you have to top up your system make sure the mixture is 50/50 even in the summer. If you dont use antifreeze at all, eventually the cylinder head will oxidise inside the water track and block causing major problems and a big dent in your wallet. I have seen this happen to other cars and it makes a right mess. Craig

Thats the one. On both sides.

I have water dripping in near the mirror on the pasengers side and door seal on the drivers side. Whats going on?

It's been about 4 days since i last topped it up and now the light is flashing again. It's a 2l 16v 93 k plate. There is no water in the oil and the garage cant find a leak under the bonnet. I have a wet carpet on the drivers side near the seat so what could this be? The other side is dry. It cant be the head gasket because there is no power loss. I have been told a new gasket would be 700-800 big ones so please tell me my problem can be solved in 10 mins. Any ideas? Cheers....

Oh and dont forget the circlips holding the bearing in place.

Right here goes! 1. Pop the center cap off of the wheel and undo the hub nut (30mm) The torque setting should be 265 newton meters. If you havent got a suitable torque wrench mark the nut and thread end with a center dot so they can be lined up when tightening. 2. Loosen the wheel bolts and jack the car up. Now remove the wheel. Axel stands should be used to take the strain from the jack. 3. Undo the caliper and tie to the spring so it does not hand from the brake pipe. (very important) The caliper is held by 2 bolts. You will need a 17mm socket/spanner to undo these. 4. Remove the brake disc by undoing the phillips head screw. 5. Unplug the abs sensor and move the cable out of your way. Be very carefull not to damage the sensor or th ring during removal of the hub. Allen bolt (5mm key) will remove the sensor but mine was seized solid so left it in. 6. Split this ball joint from the track rod. You will need a ball joint splitter for this (looks like a tuning fork). Now split the bottom ball joint. Not as easy, I undid the 3 screws holding it in using a 13mm spanner and slid it out. 7. Ok nearly there! Now you have to undo the 2 bolts holding the strut onto the hub carrier. These were an odd size (18mm 11/16inch) could be imperial. PLEASE MARK THESE AS THEY ARE CAMBER BOLTS AND THE CAMBER (ANGLE OF WHEEL FROM TOP TO BOTTOM) WILL BE OUT IF NOT PUT BACK CORRECT. 8. Now the whole hub carrier should pull off away from the car without using much force. Make sure the 30mm hub nut has been removed. Now the tricky part! If you cant do this take the hub carrier with the old bearing to a garage and let them do it. Remove the hub (bit the wheel bolts to, splinned bit in pic) from the carrier using the fly press. You will need to block it up square. Now press the bearing out of the hub carrier and press the new one in. Be very carefull and dont rush! The inner of my bearing was seized on the hub shaft. This can be removed by carefully grinding and hammering to split and loosen. Dont try this if your not confident! NOW DO EVERY THING IN REVERSE TO RE-ASSEMBLE. PLEASE NOTE THE CAMBER BOLTS AND HUB NUT TORQUE SETTING OF 265 NEWTON METERS! The ball joints may need a small tap with a hammer as thay work like a taper lock to do the nut up. Think thats it (please correct if not). Cheers!

Yep coming right up. Computer crashed and lost all my pics but i didnt delete them from the camera so still have em. Will start a new thread.

I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, it looks as though i can get to it with the arc welder but dont know if i should. If i disconect the batt and cover the engine (so i dont start a fire) will all the electrics be ok when i reconect the batt?

Well i did it. Everything seems ok and works the same. Took me about 4-5 hours. Have pics if anyone needs them but please dont try this job without a fly press! Had to grind one of the old bearing inards off. Easy to get apart but not easy getting the old bearing out without a press.

Yes the tsw pace wheels do look well nice on my corrado but they are made of cheese i swear! Reversed into a space at work and just touched the kurb with the rear passenger wheel. Now i have to get a new one! I have had the worst day so far with this car! Going to bed to sulk like a 9 year old now! Rant over.

I'm dreadin this but it has to be done. Got all the tools to do it so tomorow it's coming apart on the drive. Bet it snows/rains! Will take pics and write it up so others can have a step by step guide on how to do it proper (i hope).