hodgkinsons

I've had a new speed sensor fitted now but it's not helped the speedo at all, the guy who's helping me diagnose it reckons I should remove the sensor and check with my finger to see if the gears are turning through the hole? any one heard of this before? I can't imagine why the drive to the sensor would stop?

So did yours just stop the speedo from working then and nothing else? Though it made sense that speed related MFA functions would also stop with no input from the pulse signal. i've got oil temp and airtemp still on the MFA. Is the speed sensor easy to replace?

In an effort to fix the spoiler not working on the auto sensor I tried as mrbeige did (successfully) to replace the transistor on the back of the clocks. Once replaced my speedo no longer works neither does MPG, ave speed or any other speed related MFA readings. Mrbeige has kindly looked at the clocks and tested on an autosim, he reports that the clocks are fine and all works ok when tested on this. I now have the clocks back and re fitted them but I still get the same result. Has anyone had this happen to them or know how to fix? The speedo worked fine before, is it possible that the speed sensor on the gearbox has gone? thanks

Mine too! I've done exactly the same, not sure if it's different from the 16v set up. I'll keep you posted if I get it sorted.

Do you still have any transistors left, if so can I buy one from you? might have a go at this, cheers

Cheers for the info, I keep getting enthusiasm to fix these little things, problem I've got is I know the previous owner has had a little play.

Thanks, and I presume that sits behind the fuse box area somwhere?

Well this is a long time since but not bothered too much about it since, feel like it's time for another go! Tried the above and no change, I'm looking for this illusive blue white wire behind the dash but can't see it, does anyone know where it origninates from? is it the fuse box or the back of the controller? cheers

I can sympathise here, my spoiler does the old not working at all except for on the manual switch, Checked fuses, blue wire seems to have been removed altogether by previous owner(s) It's had new sensor fitted too. Had given up but feel like having another bash, I'll let you know if I get any luck

I've got a bloke called Andy Jackson to service the car for me and do a basic settings reset for me, seems to be knowledgeable drives a VR Vento himself. He's based in Leek, Cheshire at A&C services if anyone is looking for a decent VW sepcialist in that area.

Hi, thanks for the info, i've seen that euro carparts do the links but not sure if they do a kit, you're right though i'd want the bolts and everything. Got a trolley jack so that's ok. Will ask my local spares shop and might even ask the stealers! I'm based in Macclesfield, not too far from you!

First can I check I'm talking about the correct part, it's fastened to the very end of the front anti roll bar and also connects to the front wishbone. Is this the droplink? If so ones just snapped on my car, are the original ones the best to go for? also advice on supplier if anyones got any? Is it an easy fit? Cheers guys.

ok great, thanks to all for your help with this, think I'll have a word with a local VW specialist might get it done when it goes for a service in the next couple of weeks. I'll report back if any probs.

So it is advisable to get it hooked up to VAG -COM at some point to get the most from the engine. Isn't this what you were doing when you broke your ECU? anything to avoid here then? Cheers

So am I correct in thinking that there's no point in doing any of the driving reset stuff either if I'm not going to do the basic reset procedure?

Question :My 94 VR6 has just had a new battery fitted having been stood in the garage over winter with no battery. I ran the car stationary for a while to warm it up and it did run a little rough at first but this seemed to smooth out after 5 mins or so. It passed it's MOT yesterday with a clean bill of health including the emissions. Why would I need to go through the ECU reset procedure and basic settings procedure to reset the ECU if the car is running ok and has passed emision tests no problem? Thanks for any advice given on this. :roll:

That's sounds very strange! but I'll give it a go, curently on SORN over winter so will have to wait don't think the garage is quite big enough for that. Must be some wiring\ earth issue surely that one.

Can you telll me where this wire runs from and to, I can see if it has been cut off further back, would like to avoid taking out the stereo again as the dash is getting a bit fragile around there. Thanks again for info.

I'll recheck them, car has flat battery in the garage at the mo so need to sort that out too. Looks like the blue/white wire for volume control behind stereo has been removed completely does this matter? Cheers for help.

I know this is harping on about a problem that has been covered before many times but I have just discovered through the search that my car has suffered from this for a while and the previous owner had no joy in fixing it despite his attempts see below: A) no stereo in the car, so its not the blue/white wire B) I have metered out the wires, so pretty sure there are no broken 1's C) Fitted a new speed sensor on the gearbox D) Bought a 2nd hand spoiler controller from someone on the forum E) Fuses are all ok He has also changed the clocks twice in an attempt to sort this out much to my shock as I read his previous thread. Does anybody have any other ideas to try, it works on the button but that's it. I'd really like to get it working. Is it worth looking behind the trim in the rear hatch to see if there's any problems? :roll: :roll:

Managed to get a friend who's a bit clued up on Electrics to have a quick look for me, we found a White and Blue wire which comes from the back of the control Module, does the signal need to be tested when the car is driven or can you just rev the engine, we found there was a variance on the wire when the car was reved but stationary. I really can't find this wire behind the stereo unit though is it well hidden?

I can see a blue wire at the back of the dash (behing the stereo) there is no white on it though, is it always white and blue? The blue wire I can see travels along the dash under the glove box area and goes down behind the trim on the passenger side towards the rear of the car I think. Does this sound like it's the one I may remove the tailgate trim panel to see if it terminates at the rrear spoiler motor. Ta

Thanks for the replies: I've been quoted a range of figures from £430 with Egg to over £1000 with some jokers. I'm sure Privelege quoted me around £560!!, I did get a quote from a company call Firebond.co.uk for £330 agreed value, mileage limit 12k so that's the best to date, It's a classic policy type and doesn't use your no claims so you are free to use that on a second car. Will keep hunting though before it's due.

Just hoping someone can give me names of insurance companies to try now that I own a group 18! car. i'd like to insure limited mileage but not getting much better quotes than from standard policies. Does anyone use their corrado as a second car if so I'd be grateful for advice and recommendations on who you've used. Cheers

Got the Stereo out of the car, I can see a lightish blue wire at the back of the centre console area behind the radio, it's not attached to the radio wiring though. I've also got all the under dash trays out both sides to expose other wiring is there anything I can check out here?