ollster

ive given it you mate its the vag number of 026906161, but its not listed under the corrado for some stupid reason, you have to look in the passat or use the atp function in etka which lists all the models it was used for

its probably becuase its my corrado and since owning it everything has gone wrong and every part has been twice the price as a normal raddo, im beggining to think i should have bought a VR6 (or a fiesta :( )

just checked and the tensioner is £37 from GSF... ouwch gonna do it anyway as its not worth the risk

cheers for the info, is it worth doing the tensioner at the same time? and if so would GSF be ok again to get the belt and tensioner from? and finally back to the coolant system its best to get: pump from GSF G12 + from GSF pump to block seal from VAG thermostat from VAG thermostat seal from VAG Is the above correct?

excelent cheers for all the advice people, the cam belt is the next thing on the list but as the water pump is not driven by the cam belt i will do this job first

ok so GSF for the pump it is the only reason i asked is because i remember someone mentioning in an old post (which i now cant find lol) that the gsf pump was not up tot the standards of the vw one even though it is calssed as OE quality

the VAG number is 026906161 but i would recomend using the bosch number 0280130040 and buying it from a bosch dealer as it will work out cheaper

i have been told these are a bitch to remove but am prepared for them with my air tools :twisted: but cheers for the advice ill add them to the list. Any more opinions on GSF vs stealers?

I know this has been covered before but am looking for some more definitive answers... I believe my water pump is on its way out so im looking at changing it, first of all how much of a job is this on a 2l 16v raddo (is there a step by step guide) and what parts do i need, my shopping list so far is... Water pump Water pump to block seal Thermostat Thermostat Seal g12 coolant new belt if old one is shagged I have spoke to the stealers and they want £43 exchange fro the pump alone not to mention the other bits but i can buy all the above for a lot less from GSF (OE quality parts im told not the cheap copy crap they also sell) So is it worth shelling out the extra for genuine parts (and waiting as they don’t stock them) or are the GSF parts up to the job?

Okey doke, in that case I'll have to take the old one out. Cheers for the reply though :) the bosch part number i gave you is for that sensor mate, i can get the vw number if you want to get it from the stealers?

ring scorpoion, my alarm buggered up after a flat battery the battery requiring me to send it off to them, but I didn’t fancy having to bypass the immobiliser circuit only to have to re-connect it when I get my alarm back. Luckily there is a way of bridging the immobiliser at the alarm multi plug; i will obviously not post up how on a public forum but if you ring scorpion they should be able to help. It is as simple as getting one piece of wire and connecting two pins at the multiplug!!!

gsf dont stock it, its a bosch part and i got mine from a local bosch dealer the bosch part no is 0280130040 it cost about £24. I have changed mine and it didnt help the crap running :(

if you get a new handle i buy your repair kit of you

well ahead of you on that one mate a 2.3 mm drill did the job for me jus need a new arm to put in and im sorted :?

looks like were the new dukes of hazard crew untill dave returns :lol:

yeh i really want daves repair kit but he seems to have posted since i sent him pm's but still no joy with replying to my pm's. And im getting even more fed up of having to get in through the passenger side lol

I have been trying to contact daves16v to get a door handle repair kit but haven’t heard anything back, is there anyone else who does a similar replacement arm that isn’t made out of marzipan like the original, im getting very bored of getting in through the passenger side!!

i am going to sort those problems but i get the impression that the flat poor running is nothing to do with either of those issues... are the coolant temp sensors prone to failing on the 9a engines? another thing that is anoying me is that fact that i can feel every vibration the engine makes in the cabin, and ive only replaced the shagged old mounts with new oe ones. the thing is the engine does not make any excessive vibrations if you put you hand on the block its just the fact that the natural vibrations it does make get transmitted through the whole shell and again im not sure if its related to the poor running of the engine. the irony is i sold my g40 as i wanted a realiable comfy ride and the raddo is not turning out to be either lol

cheers for the help people, i was thinkng a sensor, but it doesnt seem to be related to when the car is warm or cold, which knocks the lambda probe out as it wont be used from cold start? It doesnt start amazingly from cold so i guess it could be the coolant temp sensor The other thing i have noticed is that there is a very small fuel leak from the pump but i doubt its enough to drop fuel pressure, and also the exhaust manifold has a small crack appearing on the top side so im wondering if its cracked beneath which again would cause lambda issues when the sensor comes into play. Im used to the g40 engine which is so much easier to diagnose than this, its really starting to annoy me. The cambelt hasnt been changed in a while by the look of it but i have checked the static timing and its spot on at the pulley and i have marked the flywheel turned the engine over and checked it again there and it was spot on once more. What sensors or room for adjustment is available on these engines? ignition timing seems spot on the pulley mark with a strobe

oh and to add ive just checked and the plugs are ngk bcp7et's, are these the correct plugs?

Ive got a 1995 2.0l 16v raddo with a 9a engine i belive?? Anyway it just doesnt seem to be running right and i have checked all of the obvious things such as igintion... static timing, its got new oil, filter, leads, rotor arm dissy cap etc. It seem to get really hot in traffic the oil temp will be about 112 to 115 and the water temp around 100 untill the fan cuts in. Ive have just checked the plugs and they seem a little white on the tip but the core seems fine and they are evenly matched, my thinking is that the engine is running lean causing the hot running, but his is just a guess, here is a picture of the plug sorry for the quality its off my phone, can anyone confirm or shed some light on my problem. The car seems very flat to drive aswell, it doesnt burn oil or loose water????? Also does anyone know the torque wrench setting for the plugs?

cheers for all the helps people, ive just tried the jump lead trick and it didnt make any difference although something is definatly a miss i just cant put my finger on it. As for the vibration ill try loosening all the engine mounts but i dont see it make a massive difference, i dont suppose there is any corrado guru's in my area that fancy having a look at it and in return ill provide food drink and great company lol

i changed the mounts myself, and as for letting them settle i didnt loosen the gearbox mount but left the back and front mount loose and rocked the engine before i torqued them up. Is it worth loosening all of the mounts starting the engine and then tightening them all up again, as i really am completly out of idea's after soending two days witht he problem Engine wise can anybody shed a light on how to make the 2.0 16v run correclty as i have seen quiet a lot that run very flat and have starting, overfueling issues etc. Mine is not as bad as the one that my freind has in his raddo but it doesnt start half as well as my old g40 and its very lifeless to drive. The plugs, rotor arm, leads, oil filter, air filter have been changedbut something just doesnt feel right although mecahnically there are no knocks top end rattles or sign of mechanical wear so im guessing its sensor related unless that is just what these engines are like

yeh the engine or exhaust contacting the body was exactly what i thought was happening but ive been under the car all day and havent found a sodding thing :( it feels as if the engine is running fine and i have checked the timing with a strobe and looked for vac leaks but the vibration the engine is giving off seems normal, its just the fact that it is being transmittted to the chasis that is not. The plugs are a bit white but i think this is down to it running a tad hot for again another unknon reason (although i suspect old coolant and a sticky stat?) im begining to think i should have kept the polo it was a much less harsh ride!!!!

hi mate, they were german swedish OE best quality mounts, which are both hydro mounts. If you put your hand on the inlet manifold the engine vibrates as much as you would expect but it is by no means excessive. Apart from that the engine runs sweet, although it feels very flat but then again i did have a ported g40 before the raddo! it also seems to run a little hot but that problem is for another day lol It just seems that all vibration from the normal running of the engine is being trasmitted to the rest of the body as if it were running solid mounts The only other thing is that it does not have the gearbox support that is present on gti 16v i have seen but im not sure if the raddo's came with these or not. The support i mean the bracket that runs from the top of the gearbox where the selector is to the gearbox mount at the back