TomD

That's what i assumed...but how come VW list them as G60 items...it looked as though they might have superceeded the greens...did later G60's get better ones?? The heads ported and polished etc and it'll be with a 4 branch and possibly a mildish (Newman) cam, so I reckon its worth sticking them in when I do the head change! :D

Hi all! I've got a set of grey injectors that came with a head thats going on my car when I've got time to fit it. The ones in my current head are the green standard G60 ones. The grey's have the part number 037 906 031F and VW stamps so I took the part number into the local VW dealership, but ETKA said that they were listed for a G60. So were these late G60 items and are they any better than greens? I've seen a few guys on the forum with 'Grey injectors' listed amongst other mods in their sigs - do they have a better flow rate etc? Cheers in advance! P.s. another thing...I've always gone for Bosch W6DPO plugs, but was reading this ad... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NOLOGY-SILVER-SPA ... dZViewItem ...are they talking cr*p or is there truth in it?? Cheers! :D

Did some googling and after finding a few different guides I've been busy and have made myself up a boost testing kit....gonna try it out tonite! Basically into the pipe that goes over the rad fan motor goes a lid from a can of plus gas, which fits really snuggly and is clamped. Took an old bicycle inner tube and cut the valve out, drilled a hole into the top of the plusgas cap and sealed the valve into it with sealant. Then took another old bit of hose that fits onto the lower exit of the throttle body, used some more of the rubber from the inner tube and some sealant to seal up the end of it, clamped it all up. So that'll go in one end and the cap goes in the other... ...Then you can use a bicycle pump or similar to pressurise the system and test for leaks. The idea is that you can here even the smallest boost leak as the engine isn't running. So that's tonite's little adventure! :D

Definitely coming from the drivers side rather than passenger - does seem to be like it could be the hose going to the clocks...but I have no idea how the garage could have managed to pull that off. If there was a leak around the manifold would you be able to hear it in the same place? I've been looking into these DIY boost testing kits that people have made...looks like a good idea. But do you just have to hold the second butterfly on the linkage closed? Cheers!

I don't think the acid actually boiled out of the battery - I could just made the boiling noise??

Thanks to Neil (Riley) for the voltage regulator....sorted the old girl out nicely! :D

Ok will do...but I thought theses newer batteries were sealed units? Or can you still open them up and check the levels?

One more boost leak question.... I can here the boost leaking out of the hose under full boost - kind of makes a squeak/squeal noise that builds up. But I've also got another noise....a quiet hiss coming from the footwell or behind the clocks.. Am I right in thinking this is almost certainly the plastic pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the clocks to do the MPG? Or would another boost leak be able to be heard in the same place? I've been over all the obvious connections and can't seem to work out where its coming from. You know with a G60 with the boost return removed...on no or part throttle you get the wooshing noise from the throttle body, then as you got to WOT it does quiet and all you can here is the noise of the engine....well I can still here a slight hiss. Cheers!

Neil! The regulator came yesterday and I fitted it last night...set it to just under 14.3V and it all seems to be working well. The reg I put in yesterday was on its last legs and the brushes were almost gone, so it all seems to be ok. So thanks very much! However...is it likely to have caused any long term damage to the battery - as I can't imagine boiling it will aid longevity?? Though it seems ok at the minute. Thanks again for your help guys! :D

Ok! Temporary fix! This morning I stuck the old volatege reg back in the alternator and its back to 14.3 or just under! So they've managed to fry the current one! So Riley when the new reg arrives I'll stick it in! Bit weird though, I decided to buy the reg from you before I knew this was the problem! Spooky! Anyway, thanks for all your help guys, now I can drive to work!!!! :D :D :D :D

Ok... Pulled all the wiring for the alternator out and checked it all, pulled out the regulator and cleaned up all the contacts. Got it all back together, and if anything the voltage is higher now (oops!) So I'm guessing its likely to be the alternator?? :(

Ok....thanks guys I think its definietly over charging... 17.6 volts with everything running! :( What could cause overcharging... apart from a garage that employs monkeys being let loose on your car? Seriously you should see the list of what these guys have broken.... I take it its not a good idea to keep driving it how it is?? Argh! Idiots! P.S. I replaced the voltage regulator about 4 months ago with a new one as it didn't seem to be making enough volts, along with loads of earth lead replacing and sanding of connections! Its been working fine since I fitted it and I can't see why they'd have taken it out of the alternator. Could a didgy circuit cause it to knacker itself??

Also it definitely didnt do this before it went in to the garage! is it possible they've damaged something in the electrics by not refitting things properly?

Ok will do! Cheers! What would cause it to over charge....and how much is too much volts? as its had earth problems before so I kind of thought that might have come back again!

...I'm guessing it is! I noticed (since I got my car back from the garage... ) that when I turn the engine off I can here my battery sizzling. At first I thought it was the rad, but I pulled the battery out and stuck it on the floor in the garage and could still here it sizzling! It does seem to be starting ok though. The battery's less than a year old and a bosch silver. Could something like a bad earth cause this as they've messed up other electrics by not putting the +ve strap to the starter motor back on properly. I'm still replacing fuses and bulbs and they seem to have knackered my HID's too. Idiots. Cheers! :(

Cheers for the info guys...very interesting. Need to have a think now then! :D

That's what I thought...but its got literally a whole roll of electrical tape and it hasn't deformed or broken and its pulling well - but i need to get it swapped asap. So... to cure the problem for good and get rid of those crappy plactic pipes, I've been looking at the BBM replacement pipe kit - they look good but from searching they don't always fit too well? Can you get them in the UK or is it an import from the US job? Looks like they won't be much more than just a samco kit with the XRs at the mo. Also, do they actually flow better and increase power/torque/responsiveness or is it more for show? As they look like they'll flow much better than the stock items. Man this is an expensive month! :(

Are they stupid money from VW then? :(

Hi All! Had my G60 in the garage to fix a leaking crankshaft oil seal. I've spent the last 5 days finishing their shoddy job and fixing the things they've manage to break (Don't ask - its a long list!) Plus changed the gearbox oil for MT90 (Which is awesome btw!!) Anyway, its feeling really good and as fast if not faster than its ever felt, but.... It keeps blowing the boost pipe that goes over the rad fan at the end it meets the plastic pipe that goes down to the I/C (stock side mount) During long periods of full throttle/boost. When I got it back from the garage I found a split in that hose, but it've wrapped it in loads of electrical tape and seems to be holding up really well and not leaking boost - until I can find a replacement. It seems like the metal collar that sits inside the plastic tube to stop it sqaushing is moving too far inside the pipe, meaning that the end of the pipe where the ridge that is supposed to stop the hose popping off is deforming inwards and sending the pipe off the end. Is this a common problem, is this a reasonable explanation, and is there a good fix for it? The hose is much stiffer now its wrapped in tape but could that cause it to pop off? I was thinking of making up a longer collar that couldn't move in as far out of some old exhaust pipe as I found some thats pretty much bang on the right size - but wary of putting anything that's not supposed to be inside the boost system in it. Also, without buying a whole samco kit, is there a place I can get a replacement for this hose? Thanks in advance - she's almost back up and running now and this is pretty much the last thing (for now of course...its a G60 after all!) :D

That's true...mine (1991 G60) has no CAT and has been through MOT's fine.

Damn it, its just been at the garage having the sump removed and the bolts/threads retapped so that stops leaking. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull it off again! :( Cheers for the info! Tom

Hi all! Done a search but nothing came up that helped! After my C leaking oil for ages, finally worked out where the last leaks coming from - it looks like the base of the dipstick tube where it meets the block. But I can't see how it comes out if I need to change the seal etc. Does it screw in? I looked in the bentley manual but I can't see it saying how it comes out. Any advice? Cheers in advance! Tom

Cheers for the help guys, I'll see what I can get my hands on! :D

Hi all! Need a bit of help... ...Replaced the sunroof in my corrado with a working one, but caught the headlining material on the tilt part of the sunroof cover, and its coming away. I've tried to glue it several times with the spray adhesive but it doesnt last long. Also tried some double sided tape but you could see the bump and that didn't last long either! Does anyone have a suggestion of a decent glue that will work and keep it place? At the minute I have a perfectly working sunroof that I can't use for the stupidest reason!!! :D Cheers in advance! Tom

Thanks to Eximprezapilot for the inlet manifold! Fast delivery and as described! Cheers, Tom :D