White2505

on the top of the gearbox right next to where it mates with the engine I have two approx 1 inch holes and an empty bolt hole. can someone confirm what should be here (I take it as the car is working it's probably a blanking plate) is there a part number for it? cheers Whitey

Nice one, thanks for that, now know what I'm doing on my days off!!

Vehicle 1.8 16V symptoms:- when cold engine starts perfectly fine, revs rise to just over 1K then almost immediately drop off to around 650 (almost stalling) then rises to about 1k and sits steadyish. when pulling away there is little power low down the rev range and the engine runs a little rough. Once pulled away and start to up the revs the engine smooths out some and she pulls like a train higher up the rev range 3500rpm + Once warm these symptoms lessen and the drive is smoother although there is a sense of jerkiness when sat at a fixed speed with fixed revs on the road. final possible red herring... mpg on mfa1.. the lcd display on start up sits at 99.9 mpg and stays there for about 4-5 miles then starts dropping a few miles per hour at a time until it sits around the 12mpg mark. I know this can't be right or I'd have run out of fuel twice now! so as the title says is there a one part 'cureall' or do I have a mix of problems??

nice one, ta

anyone able to tell me where the actuator is located that activates the reversing lamps? ta Whitey

okay that makes sense now, the rotor arm has a spring within the recess that holds the arm on the shaft so I think i'll give the glue a miss. I could'nt believe how difficult it was to get it off. I was seriously concerned about damaging the dizzy. They must have used almost a teaspoon full of glue!!

i'd be amazed if it was an original rotor arm on a 15 year old car, but as you say looks like it mey well have een glued. unfortunately so much glue that it was impossible despite crushing, pulling, pushing, swearing, more pushing then it snapped. which shows how much force was being applied without it budging at all! why did they need to glue it on, it has a perfectly acceptable mechanical interferance fit without the need foe added gunge??

nope this was definately in early stage of melting, I actually broke the old rotor arm getting it off where it had gone so brittle. If it was glued, god only knows what with! I ended up having to clean up the distributor shaft with some emery paper as there was what looked like carbon scoring on the outside of the shaft where the residue of rotor arm/glue?? was stuck to the shaft. it's now nice and smooth and shiny as Mr VW intended and the rotor arm slides on and off as you would expect. It could of course just be me wanting it to sound better to make me feel better about the expense and effort but I'm certain she sounds a bit healthier ;)

Well this morning I have mostly been........ chiselling of the old rotor arm which had melted itself to the distributor arm and fitted a new one and new distributor cap. Suspect this may have something to do with the iconrace module as this surely can't be normal so I have taken off the icon race module to see if it improves the running.

as dazzy says, they were originally fitted to bikes however in the states they have been fitting them to corrado race cars apparantly. the unit interupts the ignition timing signal and 'remaps' it to the one installed in the unit. personally I suspect it's a bit of a gimmick as I fail to see how anything like this could work without it being mapped specifically to the vehicle on a rolling road but was hoping someone on here may have had some experience with this module.

Not sure if this is in the right place! just bought a 1.8 16v C bloke "said" it had been bored out to a 2.0 and had high lift cams fitted he's also fitted (cos I can see it!) a superchips iconrace ignition computer she's a little rough when cold but idles nice when warm, also is a little sluggish at low revs but goes well higher up the rev range. Just to throw a red herring in MFA shows mpg as about 12 regardless of how I drive. so questions are as follows. Anyway to easily confirm the engine displacement without taking the head off? anyone got any experience of the superchips icon race module? is it bu**ering up the ignition timing or necessary upgrade? (I'll probably take it off at least temporarily to see if it makes any difference!!) rough cold idle, symptomatic of fault with WUR or evidence of high lift cams? The Journey begins!! Cheers Whitey

thanks everyone, actually FIRST point of call is the post pffice for a tax disc. which will of course make her look better and add 20bhp (sigh)

obviously my camera trickery making her look nicer than she is!! all 4 wheels are seriously curb damaged and need a refurb. paintwork needs some attention but first step is a full service and trip to the rolling road to confirm what the starting point is!!

okay, if I have done it right there should be a photo of the old girl here:- http://img19.imagevenue.com/img.php?loc ... ge0002.JPG

will sort some out today hopefully

cheers, project is definately the word. wanted something that would be (relatively) reliable and fun to drive but which I could 'tinker' with when time allowed. figure the tinkering will consist of 'fixit' rather than upgrade jobs for some time yet :)))

bit dark at the moment, will try and sort some out tomorrow

I have been lurking as a guest for a couple of weeks and have finally taken the plunge. i am now the shell shocked owner of a 1.8L g reg C it has all the usual faults sunroof tilts up (but not down and does'nt slide back) already done the search for typical causes! spoiler neither raises nor lowers either automatically or on the dash switch. Another forum search turned up some suggestions! she has very little history but was "allegedly" rebuilt 10K ago being bored out to 2.0l with high lift cams, she also has a superchips icon race ignition computer fitted (not sure it does much though!!) although there is no documentary evidence to back this up, not having driven a C before I can't tell from performance alone whether it genuinely has been rebuilt to this spec, but as a 160,000miler I'm assuming she's still a 1.8 and needs some serious engine tlc she's lowered 80mm on koni adjustables and running on 17inch integrale 5 spokes. also needs plenty of work, the expense has already begun!! but the love affair has definately started. figure I'll be picking peoples brains extensively over the next number of weeks so thought I'd say hello!! Cheers Whitey