White2505

Have tried a search but this particular issue does not seem to be covered. My mfa on the mpg1 setting is having a bit of a wobbler. when it does work it gives me about 18mpg currently (woefull but accurate and possibly another probelm!!) however it is regularly showing 99.9 from start up for various lengths of time from 1mile to the entire 15 mile work journey the tube IS connected at the back of the dash and within the engine compartment, all the other vacuum pipes have been checked for leaks because of a previous idling problem. something is throwing it a wobbler any wisened individuals got some sage advice??

my initial post was incorrect on the figures I'm only getting 80bhp at the wheels, about 109 at the flywheel so I'm well down on standard. I think the garage knew the car from a previous owner hence the knowledge about the 2l thing although I'm still skeptical until the head has been off and it's confirmed for sure (although not planning on this anytime soon!)either way I'm best part of 30 bhp down on what the standard 1.8 kicks out will check the cam belt/flywheel thing and injectors. compression test has been done and is good and healthy

thanks peeps, real issue is I'm looking at almost a day just in travel time there and back plus however long it takes at stealth. the car is driveable and running nice and smooth it's just lacking in oomph in the meantime. for the time and money involved I 'should' be able to get at least back to tip top standard spec at my local joint (bearing in mind I'm best part of 30 horses down currently) still it looks like I may have to bite the bullet and have a LONG round trip to stealth.

yeah, apologies was not very clear in my first post I meant 160-170 at the flywheel and today it's produced 109 at the flywheel!! and about 80 at the wheels I'm understandably a little peeved. As a neebie I'm not sure but I thought the original 1.8 16v was producing about 139 (even if thats the flywheel figure I'm still 30bhp down on standard and the engine has been bored to 2l hot cams, K&N etc) so should surely give a bit more than that I would have thought.

Problem is these guys are pretty good (had about half a dozen rally cars in the workshop being sorted) they know what they are doing and can almost certainly sort it but figure it's gonna need parts and there aint no way I'm paying stealer prices!! figured I'd try and resolve whatever the failed part is before it goes back to them. If I remember rightly stealth are in warwickshire which is also a good 4 hour drive away. these guys are less than 4miles from my doorstep.

Well I had my fears confirmed. My C is well down on power (109 bhp at the wheels :( ) the guy at the garage confirmed I have a hot cam and a 2l re-bore so I should be seeing in the region of 160 to 170 he thought. They did not have time to solve the problem today and can't fit me in for two weeks but he said compression was good on all cylinders, timing was shite to start with but is spot on now, as is the mixture. He thought it was either a fueling problem or ecu related but had not had time to track it down as it had taken them two hours to get this far!! so over to you knowledgable chaps any thoughts on what the most likely fault is or am I barking up the wrong tree?? anyone got a 1.8 16v ecu and ignition pack sat under a box in the garage they want shot of??

Part number request, Not sure what it's called but it's a pipe running from just above the oil filter (about 2 inch diameter at this end and about 1 inch at the other (not sure what this end went to originally as it now goes to an oil breather catch tank) also has a small take off hole about 10mm diameter on the 2inch end. (whats this for? as I don't appear to need it (have oil cooler sandwich plate and oil cooler fitted) many thanks

Zippy, been there done it myself in the past. from what you've described (battery shorted directly to metal work rather than to the loom itself I'd be suprised if you've fried the lights) before the final tighten did you have working headlights with the new loom?? (this proves the new loom WAS working prior to the short out) can you plug the lights back into the original loom? if so do they then work ok? (if yes this suggests the new loom is faulty/fried/wired up incorrectly, if no back to the drawing board!!) Assuming it's the loom playing up (no insult intended to majik), Do you have a good earth for the new loom?( this is quite likely as many many electrical faults are directly attributable to either a loss of the 12v supply or loss of the earth) Do you have a good +12v supply to the loom? if yes to both then do any of the wires on the new loom that look like they have melting to the outer plastic coating?? (if so the conductor inside is probably shot and that piece needs replacing, although you would have probably seen smoke from the plastic as it melted!!) Check fuses in main fusebox and any fitted on the new loom although as per the very top If all you hit with the spanner was a metal bracket I'd be suprised if you managed to fry anything. let us know how you get on

nice one, thanks for the info

man I hate fiting gearboxes, had a landrover a while back that took me a whole day to get to slide home before I realised it had the wrong bell housing on it (Doh)

this week I mostly......... fixed my rear spoiler (cheers to dinkus for the parts), fixed my idling problem, fitted my debadged grill, re-fitted the vacum pipe to the back of the mfa in the dash, emptied the oil catchtank and fitted a breather, removed the surplus pipe from the catch tank to the airbox, fixed the reversing lights actuator, adjusted the gearbox linkage so I could select first gear, fitted a set of airhorns (as mine had packed up), fitted aero wipers think thats about it.... phew

Anybody fitted the audi 80 throttle body to a 1.8 16v? Does it gie any appreciable improvement in performance?? cheers

Are you sure the battery is ok? the clicking does sound like starter motor to me BUT the loss of clocks etc makes me think of a battery issue. Have you tried a different known good battery? This time of year is guaranteed to find weakness in the battery as we are all running round with lights, heated windows etc etc more often now than earlier in the year. Probably is the starter but it's gotta be worth a check before you shell out the big bucks on a new motor

the fact its loose in the engine bay and looking snipped (although no idea what from!) makes me think it must have gone to something at some point. Was hoping someone knowledgable (or failing that someone with a good bluff :lol: ) could tell me what. should I be worried or just get that selective vision thing that does not see it every time I pop the hood

Bees, I've not owned a VW before and had my c only three weeks. all it took to fix mine was a circlip, a 13mm spanner for the bolt holding the cable on the gear selector on the gearbox, oh yeah..... and 10 minutes of my time. It's gotta be worth ten minutes of your time to give it a try and possibly save yourself a bit of money into the bargain.

apologies I'm a bit of a whore with the what's this/where's this go type questions. only had the old girl three weeks and have solved various problems so far. this ones got me stumped currently, it is a single black wire which has no connector on it (obviously been cut at some point). there is no obvious electrical sensor or connector near it that is missing a wire and no other unconnected wires that this should go to. everything no seems to be working okay so nothing obvious is jumping out at me. its located down near the reversing light actuator on the gearbox. focus isn't great but you may be able to make it out at the bottom of the picture. crossing the blue wire by the actuator. Any ideas where this should go??

if I've done this right this shows the before image

it was raining outside and windy so I knew today had to be the day to tackle the idling problems I've been experiencing (sigh) Problem is only on cold start. It starts perfectly hitting about 1400rpm then imediately drops super low almost stalling then upto 1400ish again then back to around a 1000 BUT when you try to drive off it wants to stall for the first few minutes. Once warmed it drives MUCH better. I'd already checked the 5th injector was okay, the ISV was buzzing and seems to do the right thing (squeeze hose and engine dies. all plugs, cap and rotor arm have been replaced. and so to it. On initial inspection of the throttle body I noticed that the metal lever that presses against the black micro switch (idle switch I presume) on the side of the throttle body was about 8mm in front of the switch at rest. i.e. not touching the switch at all!! Some bu**er had adjusted the grub screw that determines the levers rest position to this setting (WHY???). Backed of the grub screw so the lever now activates the switch at rest and it all seems to be doing it's thing. of course by the time I've sorted it and checked it a couple of times the engine has warmed up sufficiently that the symptoms cannot be replicated until tommorow morning when the engine has stood for several hours and gone cold again. So what do you think? have I cured another of my car problems or just changed it slightly for tommorow morning!

I have just used confused.com very easy to use and they suggested the best deal for my C was dial direct (on the web). Don't ask the price though as I am old and have lots of no claims and it will make you cry!! ;)

this does'nt cover the 1.8 valver though does it?

Okay I have got the haynes manual for the golf but wanted something corrado specific. there are a few workshop cd's on ebay claiming to be corrado specific. anybody used any of them or have any recommendations. it's my first vw so need something that will be gentle but infomative. cheers Whitey

I have just had a play with mine on my 1.8valver as it had the same problem. it was worse than yours as the clip was missing and when I put a new one on I could'nt actually select first gear at all! it was simple to fix as the shift mechanism which is on top of the box was really obvious. The are two cables running to it and one is fixed on a non adjustable arm (the lower of the two on mine) the other higher one was fixed to the arm but the arm was slotted where the cable bolts to it. I marked the original position so I could always move it back if I made it worse (unlikely based on how bad it was) and then using trial and error released the nut slid the cable a couple of mm down the slot retightened and tried selecting 1st, took a couple of tries to get it right but is now sorted and took all of ten minutes.

correct and incorrect, panda cars do not have calibrated speedo's but CAN be used to prosecute you for speeding. Plod records your speed against his uncalibrated speedo. he then issues a fixed penalty ticket or reports you accordingly. He then contacts his mates in traffic and runs the panda car through the laser or radar gun at the same speed he followed you at. Hey presto one uncalibrated speedo used to prosecute a speeder.

KeystarG60... not sure what its like up your neck of the woods but down here in devon plod attend every rtc they're notified of. typically all participants receive a seven day wonder to produce documents, anybody obviously at fault is reported for appropriate offences at the scene.

sounds right, but there are definately two holes. it does indeed show the ring gear on the flywheel in one, I can't remember what was obvious within the second