Trakx

Was there any exaust noise related to black cloud? What spark plugs are you using and what gap? When my car mifires i cant hear anything diferent from exaust!

i'm having the same problem. Only happens above 5000 rpm. Didnt found the problem yet.

Did you solve your misfire problem? Was it the ignition coil? I also have a misfire. It first only affects power and then the AFR goes up 1 point, just like in your roling road teste just a bit latter on rpm Can i use a ignition coil from a Ford Sierra Cosworth?

I dont have a ISV. From the log we can see that boost is not going down and fuel seem ok. If its a rev limiter than it must be retarding time, but from what i know the ecu doesnt do that. From my knowledge the rpm limit is less boost and less 5700rpm to fuel cut at 6300. Anyone has any info on ECU retarding time ?

Some more data Gtech performance logs (diferent curves correspond to diferent boost. higher = 1 bar boost) Innovate lc-1 and lma-3 logs (rpm-black, injectors duty cycle-green, boost-blue, afr-purple and g meter- yellow line) In the second pic its clear the stumble at 6000 rpm - g meter-yellow line goes up and than down again - which means the car had a certain accelaration (the lower the yellow line means more accelaration) than it was reduced and then it got up again

Have you changed injectors? Even with 4 bar FP, the 385 injectors must be maxed out to hit 300 hp. What kind of AFR are you seeing?

its independent of boost (my g60 is now turbo, have a Profec B so i can change boost)

so i still have the high rpm stumble. It seems it starts consistently at 5700 rpm (can be seen on power grahp) it seems like misfire. it does not pop. found this the other day: "almost sound like an electrical failure (key cylinder, ecu relay, fuel pump relay,ISV short circuit). sounds like the ecu is rebooting; but since you've replaced that already you must start looking upstream you know there was a guy on here with his keychain it would rattle at 5700rpm (out of gear) and misfire rapidly as the key cylinder hit a harmonic that caused power to cut on/off and reboot the ecu acting like a rpm cut. weirdest isht we've ever seen. don't rule anything out" dont seem to be my problem I've already changed ecu relay, fuel pump relay, distributor including hall sensor, cap and rotor, sparkplugs and wires, blue coolant sensor, co pot, knock sensor, injectors, injector loom and FPR. Missing is ignition coil, fuel pump, ignition switch and alternator. Already tested wire loom for continuity/resistance. All seem ok. Also tested for voltage at high rpm and no problem. Any ideas?

In a rolling road usually the lambda probe is in the tail pipe. In my car i near the stock narrow lambda. Althought one can use a wideband to feed the ecu with some soft management i prefer to keep the stock one. Concerning bhp. The car is making 12 psi, that is not much above stock. But more importante is that the bhp is not in the same "scale" as factory numbers. Soo this 165 can be really good or not. In the rolling road i use, the first time my car went there it was almost stock but with a one way valve in ISV route, so it made a litle more boost on top rpm, with stock chip. It made 145. Then with 68 pulley, chip and cam it made 175. This time a mate of mine with a stock 180 hp Audi TT went with me. The Audi got 168. That's 12 diff. 175 + 12 = 187 which is near the 190 we hear to be the target with chip, cam, pulley and ISV.

Neil G60 The rolling road reading is made with a wideband lambda probe. The dip at 5000 rpm is the injectors maxing out. viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451&start=360 From my car with sns chip and a Innovate LC-1 wideband lambda probe.

your injectors are maxing out at 5000 rpm check viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451&start=360

JMC's hope you dont mine the post as i do know this is your's car topic. I finally i got the time to post logs that i wrote about. In "Teste35" with SNS Chip Green injectors, 3.8 Bar FPR As you can see injectors max out at +/- 5000 rpm. When duty cycle goes above 90% the injectors do not close anymore. This is the reason for famous 5000 rpm flat power as AFR goes down more than 1 point. Because of this i changed my alternetor, ignition coil, distributor with hall sensor, checked everything countless times, all a waist of money and time. Green line -> Injector duty cycle Blue line -> Manifold ABSOLUTE pressure - dont know why but it reads 0.1 bar less than my gauge. On board computer showed 243 . Black line -> RPM purple line -> Air Fuel Ratio In "Teste38" with Trakx chip :) Green injectors, 3.8 Bar FPR Max duty cycle is now 85% at 6460 rpm. Only using 0.6 bar boost (one can read 1.5 in graf but as said it is a litle higher) as AFR are to high. It reaches 13 at 6100 rpm which is not safe. Green line -> Injector duty cycle Blue line -> Manifold ABSOLUTE pressure Black line -> RPM purple line -> Air Fuel Ratio Now waiting for red tops

Very nice. :clap: Those are some good numbers. 315cc @ 90 would be more like 230 at flywheel at 12.5 afr. Do you have an AFR reading? Nice Stealth to check duty cycle. I' been saying that SNS chip to max out the injectors for 3 years now. After a strange engine shut down I've installed a LMA-3 (already had an Innovate LC-1) so i have AFR and duty cycle (and RPM, Boost). I than confirmed my suspections. The injectors goes 100% at around 5000 rpm and also that my redtops were burnt. What chip were you using when you did the afr reading of page 19? Mine used to look like that. So i installed my greens and a 3.8 FPR. I´ve taken out fuel and i'm now at 85% duty cycle at 6500 rpm which is good, but can only use 0.5 bar boost with a 12.5 AFR. Just ordered some redtops from G-werks. From my calcs with the 3.8 FPR and 1.1 bar boost it will give a AFR of 12. Hopping to get to 220 hp.

The problem is that the injectors goes static at 5000 rpm making the afr drop 1.5 points and with it power. See viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451&start=360

On WOT you don't want less than 11 and no more than 12.5. At part throtlle 13-14 is ok . Idle should be 14-16 as should very light throtlle - closed loop operation will go up and down as ecu trys to achieve 14.7. By the way, have you logged your readings? I have a SNS chip and the injectors go static at 5000 rpm. The AFR dips about 1-1.5 ex: from 12 to 10.7

hi, what sparkplugs are you using ? still the 6 ? What about injectors / FPR? I

What injectors / FPR are you using?

It seems a bad move. Lag will be exagerated by colder exaust gas and long distance from engine to turbo. Also, on the cold side, long intercooler pipes will also create lag and pressure drops. Road debris can be a problem. Also turbo oil feed lines will be big. Oil pressure drops could be a problem. Ball bearing turbos CAN NOT be used because the oil in this type of turbos go back to engine by gravitation (because of the total oil pressure drop in ball bearings). One final problem can be water cooling. One good thing about water cooled turbos is that when a hot engine is turned of, water flow will not stop because the water in the turbo will heat up and move upwards letting colder water in.

i'm not saying that you should or shouldn

Many years serching for info. I don't have an ISV also :D One more thing. There no "safeguard" as you go above 2 bar MAP. The ECU will not retard timing. The only limitation in using more than 1 bar boost is that the fuel and ignition map end at 1 bar so you have to use the last line in the map for ignition and fuel to, say, 1.2 bar. What will happen than is that from +/- 0.88 bar until 1.2 bar you will be overfueling and to much retarded. (note that 0.88 bar is the line before 1 bar, so from this point up the ecu will calculate values in between 0.88 and 1 bar)

From the info i've got this is +/- how it works The ISV has two functions: 1- It will open when +/- 5600 rpm is reached. 2- When the ecu senses knock. The knocking is detected cylinder selective. Each cylinder has its own window. The signal is filtered through a bandpass filter to eliminate false ticks. The signal strength is then weighed on two maps for upper allowed amplitude and minimum allowed amplitude. rpm dependant. A register sums up filtered knocking events per cylinder and starts to pull back timing individually with 3.2

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That doesn't work that way. The ECU will only drag back timing if it sences knock trought the knock sensor. i

Is your ECU the original? If not have you opened it? There are some bad ecus runing about. I've read one guy saying that he had an ECU with a soldered wire on the back top board (the one with the chip). When i read it i thought maybe it was some trick concerning Blue temp sensor or maybe WOT swicth. Than some weeks ago i bought an ECU (to have as spare, as im burning my own chips), installed it and the car starts. OK.. NOT. the car immeadiatly starts to sputer, i look at my wideband and its full rich. So i

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