mbaker8v

the original suspension I replaced wit hteh FK kit had 100k on it and was in good condition.... £560 worth of FK coilovers and it sounds like someone is hitting hte strut with a brick as you drive along..lol. Not impressed at all, OE spec sachs kit going back on istead, plus it will mean I dont have to avoid speed ramps, and I can put my car into multi storey car parks without scraping the front spoiler too..... Just typical I just lost my job now get a damn great bill!!!

Been getting a lot of banging / scraping noise from the front suspension on my corrado over the last few months... My local VW specialist has just rung to say the front drivers side strut on my FK Konigsport coilovers is knackered and needs replacing, and the passenger side one is on the way out.... So the whole set needs replacement. They have been on the car about 70,000 miles, but not really impressed wit hthat. So I am going back to standard suspension now using Sachs gear, much better suited to the cruddy roads round hull and profusion of speed ramps... Does anyone want the spare coilovers? The backs are in good condition as far as I know.... lol Mark

guys, Have had a soft knocking coming from my front suspension for a few months now, garage have finally tracked it down to a worn piston in one of the front FK Coilovers ( konigsports) They told me it cant be re-built so I am stuck with it. I am not going to replace it as the car will be for sale in a few weeks when my Audi S3 arrives... Has anyone else had a similar problem with pistons?

Has anyone used ATE power disks? I need to replace the brembo Max disks I have on the front of my C as the yare down to minimum thickness after only 15,000 miles ( The Pagid fast road pads still have about 5mm hickness elft though, and they were fitted at the same time as the disks. Not looking to fit anyhting expensive as the car will be for sale as soon as my S3 company car arrives. Any other suggestions? Had Zimmerman before and they warped... Brembo max are pretty cack, what else? Probably going to use EBC Greenstuff pads?? Cheers, Mark

However, the 'standard' discs that GSF sell are vented. Was this standard on a Mk 3 Golf VR6? Vented is different to drilled and grooved, and I would be pretty sure the VR6 came with vented disks as standard..... vented just means the disk is effectively in two halfs with cooling vanes in the middle to help cool the disks down. Pretty much standard on any heavy or quick car.

I will add my 2p in to the pot... I have run several different brake set ups on my corrado over the last 8 years, including standard VW disk and pads, standard VW disks with pagid pads, Zimmerman x-drilled front disks with Pagids and Brembo max disks with Pagids. In my opinion, the best all round set up for road use was VW disks with pagid pads. The zimmermans warped, 2 sets of them, badly, and I dont sit wit hthe brakes on in traffic. At the time I was doing 120 miles a day on fast A and B roads with no sitting in traffic at all, but they stil lwarped so I would steer well clear. The Brembo max disks are ok but they are soft, the "grooves" in them are cack and are meant to act as a disk wear indicator too, in which case they are about knackered and have only covered 30,000 miles. When i replace will be going back to OEM, probably with mintex or ferodo pads. For rear brakes, standard VW set up is much much more than adequate, just make sur ethe calipers have not seized up and can move freely. Unless your going to do track days or drive like a complete tw*t on the road, theres no need for much more in my opinion.

OK, best thing you can do is stick them straight back on Ebay to be honest, they just dont fit what you want to do. Who told you they are a good make?? If your not looking for street bass, one sub is enough. If you dont want to box it, you can get subs that will play in an infinite baffle environment i.e. the parcel shelf but you have to buy very carefully as not many subs wil ltake it, plus you cant use the existing parcel shelf and you have to seal the new shelf pretty well to prevent the back wave from the sub cancelling out the bass. Having said that, a lot of competition cars use IB installs. You will be best off with a small sealed box, you can buy a sub that will work nicely in a 1cubic foot enclosure, or as Dinkus said, spend a load of money on the audioscape pod. Alternatively, buy £30 of fibreglass and do it yourself, its not hard. Even easier to make up a small sealed box which will sit in the back corner.... Also, its really really easy to fit an amp, you would be better off doing it yourself. What are you using up front? Are you putting good component speakers or a front amp in? Whats your total budget, and what sort of music do you listen to?

but its pointless spending that much with those subs..... to be honest you would be better off selling them to teh local chavs and buying a matched sub/amp set from Fusion through CAD, you would get much more for your money. As I said though, you can spend thousands on amps and subs but they will sound cack if you dont have the sub well installed in a decent box.

OK, first off, you have bought the hardest combination of voice coils if you want to use 2 subs. How much did you pay for them? Audiobahn are not much good really... anyway, an amp.... you either need a 2 channel amp running 2 ohms per side, or a mono block suitable for 1 ohm operation. For a monoblock, this is the best I could come up with (I assume your not lookign at mega money or you would not have got Audiobahn.) http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-slick-p-4953.html that will give you 375 watts RMS to each sub, dont believe the 900watts rating on the subs, thats garbage in my opinion.... or http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/dynamics-s1200d-p-5535.html but you would have to be very very careful not to fry the subs with that with 600 watts going to each. For 2 channels, http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jvc-ksax5700-p-6305.html got to be a bargain...... again 200watts RMS to each sub. And you can use it on a nice set of components later on. Remember though, to get the best out of any sub you need a good box, purpose designed for those subs. Are you looking at sealed or ported?

Great.... So is there anything I can do about it?

Yes, yes I have......

Guys, Had my car in for a service yesterday at my local VW specialist and the yreported that one of the adjusting collars on my FK Konigsport coilovers has snapped in half. That measn that one strut only has one ring holding the spring up now. The coilovers have been on the car about 5 years, but have only covered about 40,000 miles, so I wouldnt have thought they should be knackered yet.... Am checkign with Yaash motorsport where I bought them if they are covered under warrnaty. Has anyone had similar happen? Anyone know if you can buy the locking rings separately? Cheers, Mark

Before you start swapping stuff about try getting the set up right. Have you checked your speakers in and out of phase? If not have a listen to a specific track you know well in yoru car, then go to one of hte crossovers and swap the +ve and -ve wires for the mid bass over, only do this on one crossover, listen again. If it sounds better, leave it as is, if its worse, swap it back, do the same for the tweeter. Second, are you mids mounted securely? If the speaker can move about its not going to make any mid bass. Third, get yourself some sound deadening. Even if you do upgrade your speakers in time, money on deadening is never wasted and WILL make a significant improvement to your sound. Second skin is very good and there liquid deadeners are easier to apply to tricky areas than mats. You dont need to cover the entire door to get an improvement, but the more you do, the better it gets. There is an old rule in car hifi, the sound is 10% equipment, 90% installation. You can get even cheap kit to sound very very good by installing and setting it up well. Mark

I have quite a lot of side to side play in the gear stick in first and second. My local VW garage says its teh bushes in the gear change linkage on top of the gearbox that are the problem. Anyone know how hard they are to change, is there a How To written up anywhere and how much the bits cost?? Cheers, Mark

Guys, The headlight fixing screws on both my headlights are looking quite rough from corrosion, and the metal plates they screw into are half rusted away. Does anyone know if you can still buy them and where from? Any other replacement options?

Guys, Anyone know a decent bodyshop in the above area?? I have a couple of small rust bubbles that need doing but the urgency has increased since my car got thoroughly keyed last week...... :( Cheers, Mark

Matt, that depends on the attitude of your friendly local tester... I am lucky in that my local mechanic is a, very very good, b, reasonably priced, c, a VW nut and d, an MOT tester. he is quite happy to pass a vehicle with a cat bypass pipe fitted as long as the H/C, CO etc is correct at the inlet to the cat. Thats why he "suggested" I get one, as he will not be charging me to replace the cat and then remove it again after the test....

My local mechanic has "suggested" a decat would be a good next step on my Corrado, and recommended the SuperSprint ones for quality and perfect fit. has anyone tried the Stainless Steel ones that are sold on Ebay coming over from Belgium? Anyone else decatted a C? Any comments?

The other odvious problem could be the accessory setting in your ignition switch is knanckered which is what happened to mine.. Take the unit out and check that the switched live is off when the keys are out adn live when you turn the key to setting one.... Only other thing i can think of is do you have anything connected to the remote accessory wire in the back of the head unit? That route can back flow current and confuse the head unit if theres any cables attached to it that are shorting out anywhere.... But my money is on the ignition switch...

Does anyone know if these are still happening? I appreciate Andy is doing this in his spare time, but i need ot get my lights sorted before winter so need to know if I need to look elsewhere for a loom or wait for Andy?? Just a yes, im busy, but they will get done would do..... Ta

It should be the 2E engine the same as in my 8v corrado... Get it off to AmD for a rechip and your llooking at 130BHP, around 130lb/ft torque and i average 41 MPG on my work run, but that is 70 miles each way, no traffic on mainly fast A roads...

No other work at all, car is totally standard except for a Scorpion full stainless exhaust, and at he time of the Dyno had a Stroeve Motorsport induction kit fitted too, which I have now binned in favour of K&N panel in standard airbox. Only real modification is full AmD re-map.

My remapped 8 valve C throws out 132BHP, about the same torque in lb/ft ( all at the flywheel fro mAmD RR) and returns 41mpg on myA road run to work..... And no i dont drive it like a pussy, and no 8v's arent as crap as you all think....

Can you put me down for a 4 relay, 4 fuse plug and play option please. I installed a trimsport loom when i got the car about 6 years ago and now the connecting terminals to the realys have all corroded away.....