N_TaG

Few weeks back all my headlights failed. Discovered that one of the relays in my upgraded headlight loom had corroded horribly. So I replaced them both and now they're fixed but the dipped beam doesnt work. I also have a problem with the connections at the steering wheel - adjusting the height of the wheel makes the indicators flicker. It had only affected the indicators previously but Im now thinking this is the culprit for the dipped beam. What I would like some help on is: 1. What should I be checking to illiminate certain parts? 2. Do the relays need 12v to activate? Ie: does 12v flow through the dash controls? 3. Any other advice!

Leads were from a dealer, £167! Cap was £10ish from GSF

Ok, i do know how to use the search and i am aware that similar probelms have been reported. I could not however find anyone with quite this issue..... .....it all began on a very wet Monday morning...bloody car wouldnt start. Tunrs over and over and over and then flat battery. Jumps from the gf's car started the thing after about 15 mins. Then it was terribly lumpy, wouldnt idle and stalled at every oportunity. Had to keep the revs over 2000 to keep her alive. Drove about for an hr which made it slightly better, still no power under 4000 revs in any gear. Got home and it was dark, opened bonnet and when it seemed to misfire i could see a spark going across the base of the lead from the coil to the disi cap. AT THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP END. Is this the lead or the cap? Is this what is causing it? Replaced the cap 3000m ago and the leads 5000 ago.

The whole engine died....if the battery isnt being charged then how can the engine keep sparking??

sorry: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... rs&start=0

Right, 3 weeks ago my battery went flat and refused to charge. Was miles from home or shop so had to resort to the AA. AA man turned up and after a few voltmeter tests announced my battery was shag*ed and i needed a new one. £70 later and a new battery everything seemed fine...... ......well i was out last night and when the engine was under load the battery light would flicker. I dont know if this had been happening previously as i hadnt driven it at night. It died and i had to be rescued again by the AA. Is this the alternator as i now think or does it sound like a dodgy connection somewhere?

What would be the symptoms of a caliper seizing then?

dont know, i'll try that this evening. That would be bearings right? I've heard the front ones are a bitch to replace....:-(

ok, it started off as a slight whine noise at very, very low speed....tapping the brake pedal would ease it. Sounded like it was coming from the rear offside brake. Thinking it could be the wheel bearings i replaced the rears, and at the same time replaced the front disks and pads. Well now the noise is much louder and continues throughout driving at any speed, albeit the noise isnt the same at all speeds......also at very low speeds i can feel a vibration through the floor and appears now to be coming from the front too. Is this a caliper seizing or all of them? Or is it the front wheel bearings now? Any help much appreciated :-)

There is no obvious sign of damage to the wheel or tyre, although on that inside edge the wheel is wearing due to the rubbing on the rod arm. Better get it to skoda then rather than mess about myself. Thanks for the help.

Ok, now i know this is a corrado forum and I do own a lovely one but the problem i have today is with my gf's skoda fabia. Laugh all you like :lol: she bought it against my advice with her father who didnt even perform the basic checks when buying a car! ie: FULL LOCKS! So, the problem is as follows: - On full left lock the inside edge of the wheel rubs on the rod arm extending from the steering rack :shock: It makes the most horrible noise as you'd expect from metal rubbing and grinding on metal and needs to be sorted immediatley. The seller put it in for an MOT on the day she bought it and it sailed through, i thought any wheel rubbing was an instant fail? Really appreciate any help you guys could give me on this matter as i dont like to think of her driving around with it in this state. Oh, its the nearside wheel that rubs. The offside wheel on full right lock is almost an inch clear.

does anyone wanna buy an 80,000 rack from a 1989 1.8 16v corrado?

My problem has now been diagnosed.....the knocking was being caused by the rack being loose. The holes on the rack that the bolts go through have enlarged and so the fit is not perfect hense the slipping. Tightening up the bolts has fixed it temporarily but i will def be sticking my new rack in once it gets a bit warmer outside!

so that Seat rack wont fit onto my '89 1.8 16v?

is there a pre-load screw on the 16v rack? Is the job of replacing the same procedure on a 16v as on a G60? My clunking is def getting worse and actually 'jerks' both the wheels visibly on the clunk. Also noticed that everyone now and then during turning the clunk is felt when i hit a bump.

How big a job is it to replace the rack? I've read the wiki guide for a G60 but know there are slight differences for a valver. Also, am i gonna need any special tools to do the job?

I've read and re-read all the posts and have learnt alot, was just wondering if some clever mechanic could instantly diagnose my problems from the description. Is it normal for the rack to move under the mounting clamp? Might it mean its just come loose?

Ok, here are the updated symptoms: Very loud 'clunk' through the steering which occurs at two points from lock-to-lock. - It can be felt through the steering column/car floor etc. - Does not occur when the car is up on stands - Both wheels visibly 'jerk' as the noise occurs - Top mounts seem fine - When looking at the rack, the whole thing jerks and moves under the mounting clamp at the point of the 'clunk'. Is this movement normal? - At standstill, if the steering is lightly played with over the clunk point a slight grinding can be heard. Sometimes it almost sounds like a spring winding up and the clunk is it releasing. - Cannot identify where the sound comes from. Being either side sounds exactly the same, horrible. I really dont want to have to replace the rack if i dont have to as i'm in my final year at uni and really have other things to be doing! Please help, thanks.

Have now fixed it all, downloaded the wiring diagram for the central locking and took the thing to bits. Turns out the thing i thought was the pump was the fuel gauge, which i'd left un-plugged. Steps to fix: 1. Remove Drivers side rear panel and test central locking control unit. OK 2. Remove Drivers side door panel and re-wire all connections as per the diagram 3. Remove Passenger side door panel and re-wire all connections. 4. Feel sorry for self after electric shock :shock: 5. Feel very good that it all works and the pump doesnt need replacing! :)

This morning i had it up on the stands and tried all the wobbling and wibbling suggested above with no avail. The top mounts seem fine and the ball joints ok too. The anti-roll bar linking does look old but i cant find any play when its on the ground. (although this was difficult as its down by 40mm). The lady i bought the car from knew nothing about mechanics but claimed her 'local' guy had said it was something on the steering rack catching. I will investigate further and let you know when i've worked it out!

Ok, have owned my corrado for a grand total of 4 days and already broken it. :( When i purchased it i knew the central locking didnt work and assumed it to be a faulty pump as its an early 16v (common fault from what i read). Having located the pump in the boot i set about testing it and trying to remove it. Voltmeter says no feed so gave up trying to remove it (no idea how to anyway!) and set about checking all fuses. After some searching i located the lonely central locking fuse which also works the electric windows. Fuse was fine. Removing stops the windows working so i know its functioning. What could be causing this lack of power to the pump? I know a previous owner had an immobiliser fitted which has been removed before i got hold of it. On top of this failure i've manged to kill the fuel gauge which previous to my meddling worked fine. All fuses are intact. Help?

I'll have a go at that tomorrow then in the daylight. Can the mounts be replaced independantly?

How can i tell if they need replacing? Sorry i'm not the best mechanic in the world :-)

My 1.8 16v Corrado has developed quite a loud 'clunk' noise which appears to be coming from steering column/axle. It only occurs at one point of moving the steering wheel and can be felt through the floor (at my feet) and through the steering column. The noise 'feels' like something in the steering mechanism is catching on something as it moves past a certain point. It does not occur when the car is jacked up on stands. Only seems to be at low speeds. Both CV boots appear in good condition. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this has become a bit of a worry for me! N_TaG