nickeboy

i replaced the brake disks, pads, and flexible hoses this weekend, i also replaced the fixed pipes from the rear pressure regulator back as they were corroded a little. after a nightmare with getting the right parts from GFS (i had to replace a rear brake caliper), mine is a 93 and on there system it comes up as a 92 and the parts are different as they changes from 92-93, anyway i got the right parts and fitted them, attached my easy bleed pressed the brake bias valve and bleed the brakes . Now this was a bit of a pain i had not checked the easy bleed and the pipe that goes into the fluid reservoir of the easy bleed had fell off and i feared i may have pressurized the system and began bleeding with just air, after not seeing the fluid go down i checked and re attached the easy-bleed pipe and thoroughly bleed the system, furthest from the master cylinder in, and then the two on the abspump. When tried it the pedal was spongy as hell there must be so much air in there, it is now dark and i had to leave it, I am certain i gave it a good bleeding until all the air bubbles had gone, i have done this a million times on my mk1 golf 16v conversion. The thing i think may have affected it are that i had the doors open most the day and when i went to start it it did not have enough power so maybe there was not enought power for the abs pump to do its thing while i was bleeding, and maybe i forced to much air into it when the easy bleed broke, and i hope at the end when i pressed the pedal i have not caused any damage. I would like to give it a full bleed again assuming that there is air all in the system (master cylinder calipers etc) what is the procedure for bleeding a system that has air in it almost as if it had just been totally rebuilt?? any other thoughts why it is not working please let me know, i am pretty hopefully i have not ruined seals in the master cylinder so please bear this in mind! on a corrado kick in the ass after starting the car to test the brakes the coolant hose split and spayed water all over the engine-!!??&%^&% ( glass of wine an bed ) thanks for any help, i will try again at the weekend with a set of new coolant hose's(were can i get good aftermaket hose's for the engine, full set??) thanks Nick

i used the g clamp and turned the piston also it went in fine but just not enough!!

i have a 93 corrado vr6 i was replacing the brake disk pads and hoses at the weekend and when putting the rear caliper back on i found i could not wind the piston back enough, it seems about 3-4 ml to much and i cant get it on over the new pads, i have taken it apart and seems ok handbrake seems to move ok? any thoughts also i now need to replace the brake line that goes from the bias switch across the car to the of side under the exhaust heat sheild, is there a easy way of getting it under there or do i need to drop the exhaust and sheild down???? hope not any help much appriciated Nick

i have a 93 vr6, for a long time now it has occasionally had a funny smell, it is not always there and comes and goes, always when it is warm or hot, it smells a little like burning toast maybe a little sweeter, it seems a little worst recently. my guess is there could be some oil burning somewhere or the cat? the other thing is it has the faint smell of fuel at startup sometimes and recently is running rich at start up as-well, what tis the preferred order to track down the culprit, many thanks

hi guys i have not got any further with the problem, but i do want to mention something, there is a relay behind the dash that clicks on and off once in a while, does not seem affect any thing but it is not right clearly, could there be any relays behind there that could affect it any similar faults it would be great to hear about them thanks nick

had it on vag.com at the local dealers they said the alternator came up as a fault but is actually fine now, they said there were no other faults and the computer would remember any faults for the last 50 turns of the ignition, when i say it loses all power it still runs just the accelerator does nothing the drive by wire is not working. i have heard the brake switch can sometimes cause this?, there is also a relay noise clicking behind the dash i will have a look and see if it could be related, thanks for your help nick

Hi my freind has a 2001 passat 20L his EPC light has been coming on and the car loses all power. the light relates to the drive by wire and i am told that this is normaly due to a sensor, it starts fine, drives fine but ever so often the light comes on and there is no accelerator, turn it of and on again and it is ok. i know it is not a corrado but as its christmas it would be great if the whole family could help thanks Nick

one other thing, when installing the upper chain tensioning bolt i think i may have broken it, it tried to prime the bolt with oil but could not press the bolt in i now realize that this is because you need to press a bit of wire into the end to release the valve but at the time did not realize this, i installed it into the car and it was very stiff as i tightened it then suddenly not stiff at all, when i started the car it was very noisy from the chain, i took it out and it seems i could now press it in all be it quite stiff, i am sure i could not do this before as there was a valve that i should have pressed with a thin piece of wire i assume, should this plunger be able to be pressed in without releasing the valve with a thin piece of wire? have i broken the valve, i assume this valve is there so there is always pressure on the upper chain tensioner , it is 50 pounds for a new bolt so don't want to replace it unless it is def broken? thanks

ok good news after changing the head gasket again and after smoke at the begining infact for well over half a hour, i took it for a drive, still lots of smoke, when i got home i looked and it was not smoking as much, took it for another run got back no smoke, hurrah,

the head has been redone before the rebuild, the block was a little corroded near the water ways but i cleaned it up, i have not put any antyfreeze in just now so i can check it run it a while and then change all the fluids, would it not run rough if the HG had gone again? could it be fuel,sensors, pipes etc, how much for a sniffer test compession test etc to be done? thanks all hel much appreciated nick

is there always mayo when in filler cap when head gasket goes, what else other than head gasket can cause white smoke? i have pleanty of white smoke loads before and after head gasket job, it ran lumpy before headgasket and fine now but still loads of whit smoke only ran it for 5 mins but smoked out the street? thanks

is there always mayo when in filler cap when head gasket goes, what else other than head gasket can cause white smoke? i have pleanty of white smoke loads before and after head gasket job, it ran lumpy before headgasket and fine now but still loads of whit smoke only ran it for 5 mins but smoked out the street? thanks

also where is the lamba probe located on a 93 vr6 with dizzy cap? could it cause white smoke if failing? thanks Nick

any help guys , please!!!

hi guys i have just replaced the head gasket on my 93 vr6, i suspected it was the head gasket as it bellowed white smoke on day and did not stop and ran badly, after changing the head gasket and having the head rebuilt i started it today, it started first time but had very noisy tappets and flooded white smoke down the street, ran for 5 mins and then i turned it off, it ran fine just lots of white smoke, i have not put coolant in just water as i wanted to run the car for a little bit and then drain the coolant and oil and put fresh in later but the smoke was white and had a certain toxic taste to it, could it be the gasket again? could it be injectors electrics etc help much aprreciated, thank you Nick

my god i replaced the head gasket all very carefully and started it, it bellows white smoke again!!!! agghhhhhh it runs fine now but loads of smoke is coming out, could it be the head gasket again water left in etc, it had a kind of toxic smell but i have not put any colant in yet just water any sugestion much apreiciated

hi guys i have just replaced the head gasket on my 93 vr6, i suspected it was the head gasket as it bellowed white smoke on day and did not stop and ran badly, after changing the head gasket and having the head rebuilt i started it today, it started first time but had very noisy tappets and flooded white smoke down the street, ran for 5 mins and then i turned it off, it ran fine just lots of white smoke, i have not put coolant in just water as i wanted to run the car for a little bit and then drain the coolant and oil and put fresh in later but the smoke was white and had a certain toxic taste to it, could it be the gasket again? could it be injectors electrics etc help much aprreciated, thank you Nick

cool thanks guys, can it attach to the inlet manifold or head or does it need to go to the block? thanks

great thanks, i def dont think i have the cable to take it behind the head, it is bound to the wires that go to the sensors on the oil cooler, mine is a model with a distributer cap if that make a difference, does any one know what it is? thanks Nick

i am putting my 1993 vr6 back together and i dont know where this part goes. i imagion it is a earth of some point, the wiring is near to the sensors on the oil cooler many thanks nick

thanks for your reply, the smoke was white only, with the water there were small water drying marks were the water looked like it has dried on the side of the boars, this all happened in jan an i have only just removed the head? yes the intakes have oil in them, not loads but the are all slightly black, im not sure if you can see from the picture but the main inlet pipe to the left of the breather pipe has a dirty great gash in it also? what might that effect, i bought all the tentioners and guide so will replace them, i was not going to bother with the chain as it seems from what i have read that the main cause of bad thing happening are related to tentioners going? and the chains are quite costly, i think i have a crank seal and i will change the clutch anyway, any thoughts on the state of the head gasket are they normally that bad looking? lastly does any one know the lengths of the head bolt and there related holes i did not note which came from were, and were is the lambada probe always wondered? thanks i will keep you posted on my progress nick

Could any one recomend a place to get my head skimmed and checked over, its of the car so just need to take it their thanks

hi Just hoping for a little help with my head gasket replacment on a 93 vr6, a while back it suddenly started beaching out white smoke rings and after looking in to it i presumed the head gasket had gone, i was not sure but it seemed logical and after a compression test their was a small difference in one of the cylinders, anyway as the car had done 160 k and as far as i knew never had the head of i though it would be a good time to have a look under the head, I have now removed it and while i could not see a obviously blown gasket it did look awefull, as i have not seen many old head gaskets before im not sure if it is usall to be so bad looking so i have included a picture, also i was wondering how to clean the block as it has old gasket looking bits and stuff over it, i dont want to get dirt into the oil ways water was etc, also i am having the head skimmed and as the new gasket set cam with value seals i am asking the guys to put those in as well i think it is £50 for the skim and £120 for the seals, i imagion they will clean and rebuild it for that, is it worth getting value guide etc aswell while we are at it, what should it cost to have it skimmed and rebuilt? is it nessasrry, back again to the question of weather the head gasket has gone there was water in one of the cylinders at the bottom and on the sides, i cant imagion any other way for this to be their without the gasket failing? one other thing that i am sure has not helped the car is when i took of the air box and air sensor etc the ducting from the air box has split and all around the bit that leads to the other little pipe, im not sure what these are called so i have put a picture to show, this leads to my last question that when i am in the vw dealers this part does not have a sensor in it, on my car there is a sensor or connector with a wire that goes to it but the sensor seams to be a dummy, no prongs inside? however somone has what seems tried to repare it with some silver wrap of some kind an i wonder if they may have removed something, Also what would the hole in the induction do, please not white smoke rings? Any help and tips much apreciated, i am glad i took the head off as i found a broken top belt tensioner and and im sure i will find other broken or worn parts, i am replacing the clutch as this seems to make sense as the gearbox is of, is there anything else i shoud think about while it is apart many many thanks Nick

im sure you have fixed it by now but i had this problem for ages and it turned out to be the water pump, mine did all kind of weird things overheating when slow, but better on the open road, the fan kicked in at weird times etc etc, but when i took out the water pump there was no blades left, it was the old plastic kind which had been replace 6 years before so i though it would be ok, put a new one in, runs perfectly, or should i say did that was a year ago, i am now in the middle of replacing the head gasket as it started blowing white smoke rings out the back, literaly smoke rings it was impressive, any way have the head of now and on the way found broken upper chain tentioner, i am doing it my self and so far it has cost me 300 pounds, with a further 200 for the head to be skimmed and new seals put in etc,

can any one tell me were i can get a chain upper tensioner and poss a lower one also i have not got that far yet but i imagine it is no better than the top one, also do people recommend new chain guides?, i don't think i will replace the chains as it seems to be the view that they are fine to stay in, i have got most stuff from gsf but they dont stock the guides and tensioners, also i heard on the forum about mk4 parts? if any one can tell me what bolts i need to replace in the proccedure it would be great, here is what i am replacing o far Head gasket, i have a head gasket set coming from gsf so that should have botls etc clutch, the current one seems fine but i dont fancy taking the gearbox of again clutch release bearing chain guides and tensioners thanks Nick