willg95vr6

got a call from the garage ---- its not good, the gasket has gone and there is a score in the cylinder head that needs removing. on a good note the tensioner was completely worn out and was about to break, so i suppose it could have been worse. it loks like i may have a bill for around £900 soon, So if anyone wants a really good rado on 111k miles let me know ;)

not 3rd i meant 3 door (oops)

just thought i would say i have got my 3rd black golf 30th anniversary and its the only car that i can say i think i will enjoy driving as much as the corrado. the only negative it is a little high up. i just paid 22.5k for it and the dealer says they are already selling second hand for 26 to 30k how good is that. Back to the corrado though it is now in hospital getting its gasket changed. they said they will check everything before hand but it looks like its going to be the expensive one. i will let you know if its all cured

how jealous am i, i have already got a new cap and tank, but still the same problem ;( car goes in on the 7th march. the good news is i have just bought a brand new golf gti 30th anniversary

* to the garage me thinks (again)

unfortunately no to all the above, coolant is as it should be pink none oily oil clear golden-ish no bubbles. Water doesn't seem to smell of exhaust fumes coolant seems to bubble up only just before the fan cuts in a just after the thermo swiches over. i am going to take it

I do have to say i stil have the exact problem as you, i thought i fixed it but i didn't. the coolant loss is just before the fan kicks in for me and yes both pipes are hot (lower one gets hot when the thermostat kicks in) Can any one help us ps someone a my work reckons it is a massive airlock

I had the same issue on my c vr6, the t piece pipe coming from the top of the expansion tank then branching one way to the top of the radiator and the other way in the direction of the accelerator cable - was block between the radiator and the t piece. resolution was to push a steel coat hanger gently through. sorry i am rubbish at explaining parts

when the car is idling the water pipes are rock hard with pressure, is that right also i just ran vag - com 512.1 and got an error back saying: 00522 engine coolant temperature sensor (g62) 26-10 implausable signal - intermittent if i run vag-com 409-1 i dont get this error message you reckon this has anything to do with the problem (lossing water through excess pressure)

just to add from looking at other threads. car gets up to running temp (no bubling up for water) thermostat kicks in when starting to get hot (lower pipe gets hot) then thats when the water starts to bubbly over at this point the fans are not cutting in but will do later any ideas anyone - cheers Will

if you run your car to normal operating temp (let it cool down a little) then take the cap off the header tank. the water level should be at the correct level. but what i need to know is, what does your car do when you rev the engine slightly? mine: the water will go down slightly and remain still/calm but as soon as you lower the revs to idle the water wil get all choppy and bubble over quite baddly. (which is why i am loosing so much water - cap back on when driving by the way) The T piece hose going in the the top of the header tank is hot on the left side but cold on the right (not sure is that is suppose to do that or if it blocked - the cause of the problems). The lower pipe coming from the thermostat is hot (so i think i just wasted my money on a new one) could anyone let me know what you car does on the above experiment. cheers Will

so i reckon a good garage would charge around £600 if its £1000 at VW, may get the timing stuff doen as well anyone know how much more that would be?

can this be locked down as i posted it in the wrong categorie. i have re written it cheers

How much would a straight forward headgasket cost Say a £40 per hour garage , providing nothing out of the ordinary needs doing. i really dont have a clue and am unable to find a cost on any of the threads here. thanks in advanced

ok the cap didnt work, i drove round town and up the wessex way and there is no water left in the header tank. What i think is happening is the cooling system is pressurising and it is spewing out of the headr tank. the header tank is not just low but empty anyone got any ideas. also if it is the head gasket how much would i be looking at (car runs completely fine, no mixing with oil and vice versa, and not much condensation out of the back) thanks in advanced

i have not replaced the cap yet, but the water level seems to get so high it come out of the over flow. but i will replace the cap and see if it helps (blue cap for a blue cap)

does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong, i think my head gasket is on its was out. I have a 1995 vr6 110k miles the heater matrix went not long ago, then a pipe from the rocker cover to the matrix. (both replaced). the car runs perfectly doesn't run hot. the problem being the water pours out of the header tank when hot. i have replaced the header tank. the problem is i think the water pressure is far too high and it is causing these leaks. is it the head gasket??

thanks for that, have you any idea how much it may be for 4 wheel alignment

It think the guy that had it before me was on a small bugdet hence the incorrect tyre size on the front. Any ideas what sort of place would do a four wheel alignment i assume national etc don't. and how much it costs. tyre wear is equal on both rears on the inside edge, i think the tyre pressures are 30psi

the car is standard, the pull to the left is more than uk standard. you can feel it pulling all the time. if the camber is to the right then it will go in a straight line. i have had the wishbone bushes checked and they are fine. the tyres have not been swapped but the front tyres are 195/15 and the back are 205/15

anyone got any clues to why i am getting tyre wear on the inside edges of the rear tyres. the car pulls to the left which may be related, and the rear bushes has been picked up on the mot today but are only slightly worn thanks in advanced Will

i have tried the spare key - no joy but i spoke to someone else who said it may be a hot start problem and to change the temp sensor. (the car doesnt run hot though) mean while i will try and look at some of the posts about cleaning the pickup coil cheers Will

i have just noticed the fuse relay is still the bottom right as supercharged said but its is a different number. you can tell if you take it out you will find it had the same pin lay out. it is the only one that fit

Well.... i just replaced the fuel relay as when i drive somewhere say around 5 miles get out the car and leave it for around 30min to 1hour - i cant start it for a while - the immobilizer seems to kick in , the car would start then just die. i have called the break down people out and they said it was to do with transmitter masts (possible phone). He said to replace the fuel relay, so i did. I just got in the car after eating lunch today and guess what...... It didnt start so i now have no idea what it may be. However I have just found a temporary fix of either taking the relay out then plugging it back in OR just leaving it for another 45min. please please please has anyone got any ideas i did plug the laptop in not long ago and there was an error message of immobliser pickup coil fault

cool i got a new one and its made in germany - thanks for that