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localhost.80

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  10. Posted

    I am soo sick of this fucken german engineered piece of shit, I hate this car. I had trouble from the begining like the timing(really stupid on this car) and there is too many hoses all over the fucken engine. Also the G60 charger is a really stupid idea I can't even drive my car without being scared of blowing up my charger..AAAHHH(No wonder they stop making corrados.)VERY UNRELIABLE!!!!!AND U CAN FORGET ABOUT GETTING PARTS AT YOUR LOCAL AUTO STORE THEY NEVER CARRY ANYTHING... NOT EVEN A FUCKEN MANUAL..

    NEXT TIME I AM GETTING A TOYOTA!! RELIABLE ASS HELL AND AS FOR MY BLACK MINT CORRADO WITH ONLY 70,123 MILES ON IT WITH A REBUILTED CHARGER IS GOING TO GET RECYLCED SO YOU CAN MAKE SOME NEW VW's

  14. Posted

    Questions

    ===================

    Trunk Release latch where is it?

    Power Locks on all models?

    How do I clean the intercooler?

    Recommend Type of Gas?

    Side Fender Lights Relay or Fuse?

    Number [53] Relay?

    How come my windows can not be opened at the same time(Power Windows)

    How do you use the MFA and Rear Wipers?

    Unpluged Wire Connection under charcoal canister?

    Head lights does not have a bright light?

  15. Posted

    I was wondering if the "T" vaccum hose the connects to my corrados g60 intake manifold could make my cars boost slow? and its only missing

    the hose that connects to the MFA and A/C lines.

    Please help!! I have been depressed about my car for weeks. I feel like a looser, everyone says "just get rid of it" and "your car is fuckin slow" but I have never given up on it! (been working on for 6 weeks) I lost my job over this and girlfriend... and I just can't get rid of it(I love it way too much) :crazyeyes:

    AAAHHHHH!!

  17. Posted

    This worked for me after many days of kicking and screaming!!

    My Car 1990 G60 8v USA Specs(I don't know about 16V or VR6)

    ***PLEASE READ NOTES AFTER AND NO SKIMMING OR MICKY MOUSING ANYTHING

    1. Discconnect Battery.

    3 .Remove Tensionizer & Timing Belt (Replace if needed)

    2. Align marks on Camshaft Pulley With Belt Off

    3. Turn crankshaft pulley couter clockwise(I Think) till mark on pully is line up with arrow

    (use a screwdriver on no.1 spark plug hole till piston push screwdriver all the up if any trouble rises :D )

    4. Make sure crankshaft pulley & bolts are NOT loose (Replace with DX Bolt & Washer if need)

    5. Remove Gearbox Plug on the right side and check TDC mark "0" and NOT "|"

    6. Align Intermediate Shaft with Crankshaft Marks "v" and centering dot on intermediate shaft.

    7. Replace belt and starting at crankshaft-->intermediate shaft->camshaft

    (try not to move pulleys & make some marking too for future references!)

    8. remove plugs & distributor cap and connection wire

    9. Make sure rotor and dizzy mark is pointing @ sparkplug no.1 firing order which is @ 12'oclock straight up(I had trouble with this at first) :oops: if not

    turn the distributor by loosing the bolt under the dizzy.

    10. Check marks just in case.

    11. Check again...Still your are happy with results :)

    12. Put back on the crankshaft pulley and all 4 allen bolts

    13. Check timing belt and tensionizer

    14. Turn crankshaft twice and check timing marks(make sure tdc "0" is align up on flywheel)

    16. Put back on the dizzy cap and connections

    17. Check spark plug wire firing order

    1 - Up

    2 - Left

    3 - Right

    4 - Down

    Center - Ignition Coil (Also make sure ground(Black wire) is screwed down to valve cover on the right!)

    17. Check your g60 chargers pipes lines are O.K!(mine had a acid burn from a busted battery)

    18. Check ALL vaccum hoses for any leaks or if they are missing.

    19. Put back on the battery any thing else

    20. Almost forgot make sure the dizzy clamp bolt on tight enough

    21. Cross Fingers or If you lost them trying (PRY!!!)

    22. Listen to engine for any squeaky or humming sounds from engine belts also I recommend that you have someone sit in the drivers seat and start

    engine while you check the belts

    23. Continue to TIMING GUIDE!!

     

    TIMING(I didn't have a timing light GGGRRR)

    ----------------------------------------------

    1. Turn on engine

    2. Let is idle till oil is @ 80 C (176 F) minimum with Blue Temp Sensor Connected

    3. Remove Blue Temp Sensor Connection

    4. loosen enough the bolt on distributor base clamp(Dont remove bolt with car ON!)

    5. rotate distributor as necessary and try to obtain specification adjust 6 at 1 degree (bumping it maybe works) Idle should be at 2000 to 2500 RPM

    6. re-connect coolant temperature

    7. Rev Engine Three Times to 3000RPM to reset ECU

    8. Check Idle should be at 850-950 RPM I Think so :roll:

     

     

    NOTES & SPECS

    -------------------------------------------------------

    Ignition Timing Temp Sensor Off (2000-2500RPM)

    Firing Order 1 - 3 - 4 – 2

    CO content0.7 0.4 volume %

    Engine oil temperature 80 C (176 F) minimum (Coolant temperature sensor DISCONNECTED)

     

    Do NOT hit the rotor, there is danger of damaging the rotor shaft or bearing.

    Check and Replace distributor O-ring replace if damaged(DONT FORGET MAKE SOME MARKS TOO)

     

    Check ECU Computer hose is 1 meter(3Feet) Long!(Critical NO CLIPPING, TRIMMING OR EXTENDING, Must Replace with Black&Yellow VW OEM Part)

     

    Check ISV Is working (Must Humm I THINK)

     

    Check Vaccum Hoses

     

    Check Battery Voltage Level Or Charge

     

    Check OR Adjust Idle speed adjustment screw (-Left, +Right)

     

    Check Oxygen sensor heater/probe harness connector

     

    Check And Replace Air filter

     

    Check to make sure Fuel Pump is relay OK(#80) and Fuse #18, Located in the relay box under the drivers feet at the TOP and make sure fuel pump turns ON at Engine Starting Time

     

    Check or Replace ECU Relay

     

    Checking/ Adjusting Accelerator cable and Switchs

     

    Check Hall sender (loosen rubber boot on Hall sender connector (on ignition distributor) with the harness connector from fuel injector wiring disconnected

    for any broken loose wires

     

    Check Sparkplugs Wires Resistance (600 to 1400 Ohms)

     

    Check rotor carbon brush with spring

     

    Sparkplugs

    -------------------

    Bosch Park # W6DPO

    Gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm

    (0.024 to 0.028 in.)

    Torque @ 20 Nm (15 ft lb)

     

     

    Crankshaft Bolt (Center Bolt with 12 point star)

    ===============

    Always Replace (CHEAP TO REPLACE OR PAY 1000X more later)

    Torque at 90nm (66flbs) and 1 additional 1/2 turn

    Apply some Threadlock before bolting on

    Use a Torque Wrench

    Don't sure a Impact Wrench to bolt on

  20. Posted

    (1990 g60 8v)I was wondering if any could give me some advice on

    grounding the ignition coil black wire, and repairing a

    distributor yellow wire (not the connector), also I noticed a

    blue/white wire disconnected in my engine around the dizzy and temp sensors

  23. Posted

    ok just to make sure, so I wont bend any valves later down the road.

    I have sent the flywheel @ first TDC marking and not the 6 degrees one, next I

    aligned up camshaft marking,crank pully and intermediate shaft("v","o" marks) and new DX bolt with washer and threadlock at torque specs. placed a new belt and tensionizer then

    cranked engine twice to make sure marking are correct, next I set the rotor and notch timing at 12'clock and turn crank @ 6 degrees mark, set firing order at 1,3,4,2 with new bosch sparkplugs with gap@ 0.24. Is this correct

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