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1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
and for your information I am italian -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
maybe you should add a AMERICAN MADE car to your list! -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
no wonder I never visted London. everyone their is a bunch of winnies -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
OR MAYBE I SHOULD CALL MY NEW WEBSITE the-jerks-at-the-corrado-.(net) -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
:2gunfire: -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
AND ONE MORE THING.. G-Wrecks :lol: JABAATHEHUT and all those damn companys here at this forum love give us awful advise so we can send our chargers over for repair. AAAHHH it should be called G-THESEPEOPLEARESTUPID -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
I guess I will create my own corrado forum website, I was think along the lines of the-worst-volkswagen-ever.(NET) -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
and as for getting help around here really suxs, I guess I have to get the paid version so they can tell me whats wrong or how to fix it -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
Had it for 18 months and haven't been able to drive it for 7 months -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
I am soo sick of this fucken german engineered piece of shit, I hate this car. I had trouble from the begining like the timing(really stupid on this car) and there is too many hoses all over the fucken engine. Also the G60 charger is a really stupid idea I can't even drive my car without being scared of blowing up my charger..AAAHHH(No wonder they stop making corrados.)VERY UNRELIABLE!!!!!AND U CAN FORGET ABOUT GETTING PARTS AT YOUR LOCAL AUTO STORE THEY NEVER CARRY ANYTHING... NOT EVEN A FUCKEN MANUAL.. NEXT TIME I AM GETTING A TOYOTA!! RELIABLE ASS HELL AND AS FOR MY BLACK MINT CORRADO WITH ONLY 70,123 MILES ON IT WITH A REBUILTED CHARGER IS GOING TO GET RECYLCED SO YOU CAN MAKE SOME NEW VW's -
Thanks, also is there a way to open my trunk from inside?
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1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
sorry its late 1:49AM USA with no camera yet, but its opened I can see the other side and its not connected to the VDO cluster. can I put a plug? -
1990 G60 Intake Manifold "T" Vaccum Hose MISSING
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
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Questions =================== Trunk Release latch where is it? Power Locks on all models? How do I clean the intercooler? Recommend Type of Gas? Side Fender Lights Relay or Fuse? Number [53] Relay? How come my windows can not be opened at the same time(Power Windows) How do you use the MFA and Rear Wipers? Unpluged Wire Connection under charcoal canister? Head lights does not have a bright light?
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I was wondering if the "T" vaccum hose the connects to my corrados g60 intake manifold could make my cars boost slow? and its only missing the hose that connects to the MFA and A/C lines. Please help!! I have been depressed about my car for weeks. I feel like a looser, everyone says "just get rid of it" and "your car is fuckin slow" but I have never given up on it! (been working on for 6 weeks) I lost my job over this and girlfriend... and I just can't get rid of it(I love it way too much) :crazyeyes: AAAHHHHH!!
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I use Mobile One 10w/40 Syn.
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1990 G60 Timing F**ked up URGENT! HELP PLEASE
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
This worked for me after many days of kicking and screaming!! My Car 1990 G60 8v USA Specs(I don't know about 16V or VR6) ***PLEASE READ NOTES AFTER AND NO SKIMMING OR MICKY MOUSING ANYTHING 1. Discconnect Battery. 3 .Remove Tensionizer & Timing Belt (Replace if needed) 2. Align marks on Camshaft Pulley With Belt Off 3. Turn crankshaft pulley couter clockwise(I Think) till mark on pully is line up with arrow (use a screwdriver on no.1 spark plug hole till piston push screwdriver all the up if any trouble rises :D ) 4. Make sure crankshaft pulley & bolts are NOT loose (Replace with DX Bolt & Washer if need) 5. Remove Gearbox Plug on the right side and check TDC mark "0" and NOT "|" 6. Align Intermediate Shaft with Crankshaft Marks "v" and centering dot on intermediate shaft. 7. Replace belt and starting at crankshaft-->intermediate shaft->camshaft (try not to move pulleys & make some marking too for future references!) 8. remove plugs & distributor cap and connection wire 9. Make sure rotor and dizzy mark is pointing @ sparkplug no.1 firing order which is @ 12'oclock straight up(I had trouble with this at first) :oops: if not turn the distributor by loosing the bolt under the dizzy. 10. Check marks just in case. 11. Check again...Still your are happy with results :) 12. Put back on the crankshaft pulley and all 4 allen bolts 13. Check timing belt and tensionizer 14. Turn crankshaft twice and check timing marks(make sure tdc "0" is align up on flywheel) 16. Put back on the dizzy cap and connections 17. Check spark plug wire firing order 1 - Up 2 - Left 3 - Right 4 - Down Center - Ignition Coil (Also make sure ground(Black wire) is screwed down to valve cover on the right!) 17. Check your g60 chargers pipes lines are O.K!(mine had a acid burn from a busted battery) 18. Check ALL vaccum hoses for any leaks or if they are missing. 19. Put back on the battery any thing else 20. Almost forgot make sure the dizzy clamp bolt on tight enough 21. Cross Fingers or If you lost them trying (PRY!!!) 22. Listen to engine for any squeaky or humming sounds from engine belts also I recommend that you have someone sit in the drivers seat and start engine while you check the belts 23. Continue to TIMING GUIDE!! TIMING(I didn't have a timing light GGGRRR) ---------------------------------------------- 1. Turn on engine 2. Let is idle till oil is @ 80 C (176 F) minimum with Blue Temp Sensor Connected 3. Remove Blue Temp Sensor Connection 4. loosen enough the bolt on distributor base clamp(Dont remove bolt with car ON!) 5. rotate distributor as necessary and try to obtain specification adjust 6 at 1 degree (bumping it maybe works) Idle should be at 2000 to 2500 RPM 6. re-connect coolant temperature 7. Rev Engine Three Times to 3000RPM to reset ECU 8. Check Idle should be at 850-950 RPM I Think so :roll: NOTES & SPECS ------------------------------------------------------- Ignition Timing Temp Sensor Off (2000-2500RPM) Firing Order 1 - 3 - 4 – 2 CO content0.7 0.4 volume % Engine oil temperature 80 C (176 F) minimum (Coolant temperature sensor DISCONNECTED) Do NOT hit the rotor, there is danger of damaging the rotor shaft or bearing. Check and Replace distributor O-ring replace if damaged(DONT FORGET MAKE SOME MARKS TOO) Check ECU Computer hose is 1 meter(3Feet) Long!(Critical NO CLIPPING, TRIMMING OR EXTENDING, Must Replace with Black&Yellow VW OEM Part) Check ISV Is working (Must Humm I THINK) Check Vaccum Hoses Check Battery Voltage Level Or Charge Check OR Adjust Idle speed adjustment screw (-Left, +Right) Check Oxygen sensor heater/probe harness connector Check And Replace Air filter Check to make sure Fuel Pump is relay OK(#80) and Fuse #18, Located in the relay box under the drivers feet at the TOP and make sure fuel pump turns ON at Engine Starting Time Check or Replace ECU Relay Checking/ Adjusting Accelerator cable and Switchs Check Hall sender (loosen rubber boot on Hall sender connector (on ignition distributor) with the harness connector from fuel injector wiring disconnected for any broken loose wires Check Sparkplugs Wires Resistance (600 to 1400 Ohms) Check rotor carbon brush with spring Sparkplugs ------------------- Bosch Park # W6DPO Gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.024 to 0.028 in.) Torque @ 20 Nm (15 ft lb) Crankshaft Bolt (Center Bolt with 12 point star) =============== Always Replace (CHEAP TO REPLACE OR PAY 1000X more later) Torque at 90nm (66flbs) and 1 additional 1/2 turn Apply some Threadlock before bolting on Use a Torque Wrench Don't sure a Impact Wrench to bolt on -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
idle is really high @ 4,500 rpm! AAAAHH :( -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
hall sender yellow wire broke and my freaking dumb ass brother-law removed my distributor and I think I might of lost my timing :censored:. Need some help in installing distributor and/or fixing hallsender wire(yellow) -
(1990 g60 8v)I was wondering if any could give me some advice on grounding the ignition coil black wire, and repairing a distributor yellow wire (not the connector), also I noticed a blue/white wire disconnected in my engine around the dizzy and temp sensors
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Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
the distributor seems loose lke if it need to turn some more -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
is the dizzy body suppose be on tight? -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
ok just to make sure, so I wont bend any valves later down the road. I have sent the flywheel @ first TDC marking and not the 6 degrees one, next I aligned up camshaft marking,crank pully and intermediate shaft("v","o" marks) and new DX bolt with washer and threadlock at torque specs. placed a new belt and tensionizer then cranked engine twice to make sure marking are correct, next I set the rotor and notch timing at 12'clock and turn crank @ 6 degrees mark, set firing order at 1,3,4,2 with new bosch sparkplugs with gap@ 0.24. Is this correct -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
In what position do I set the rotor? -
Flywheel Marking ...IDLE4,500-5000rpm(UDATE URGENT 05/22/06)
localhost.80 replied to localhost.80's topic in Engine Bay
thanks, also does it matter how many turns or directions? (sorry newbie)