Chris_Corrado_VR6

Hi I tried to post a video but it didnt work :( I was looking at some posts and they mentioned about hall senders on the distributor. I looked through the Bently manual and it said to measure the voltage going to the sender and its 12v on my car which is fine, the next step was to attach an led light onto wires on the hall sender and turn the engine over to check that the led's flicker. That might be a tommorow job as I would have to make some leads up. I did notice though that plugging and unplugging the hall sender made no difference to the running of the engine - is that right? Anyone out there had problems with their hall sender on early VR's?

Hi Thanks for the tip I replaced the pot with a new one 6 months ago and fitted another ISV valve at the same time but still no improvement. I will keep looking

Hi Just found the firing order on another thread - checked them and they are fine :confused4: I had the VAG Com read andthe only codes it threw up were for the lambda probe which was replaced after this the codes were cleared and non returned 3 weeks later. I was thinking of taking the rocker cover off to look at the timing marks and also taking the injectors out cleaning them and checking there are no air leaks in the system. Any other ideas?

Hi Sorry if Im being a bit thick but where do I start from on the distributor cap to get the order right. That is where would no.1 lead plug into - as you are probably guessing Im not that clued up on this!

Hi I have replaced the plugs with NGK ones a month ago and I replaced the HT leads 18 months ago and both made no difference at all. When I bought the engine the head was on and therefore should have been timed correctly? The engine isn't using any oil other than a minor leak that drips occasionally off the bottom. I also replaced the dizzy cap and rotor when I put the engine in. I am assuming that I got the firing order right as I took it off the old one but that could be worth a check do you know the order? Thanks!

OK thanks for that! So there is no way its 180 degrees out because the engine wouldn't run at all. The symptons are that the engine runs rough and when you rev the engine up to 1500 revs there is a noticable vibration making the steering wheel shake when stationary. This disapears when you rev higher but its still not right. I am getting chalky deposits on the spark plugs indicating the timing is not right so could it be the Hall sender on the distributor thats duff? Any thoughts?

Hello I bought a Vege remanufactured engine 2 yrs ago and transferred all the bits off my old engine onto the new one including the distributor. The engine has never run right with a lumpy possible misfire kinda feel to it. A friend had a look recently and asked how I set up the distributor and thinking about it now, I think I just slapped it on! Looking at the Peter Russek manual and the big yellow one they both refer to getting cylinder no. 1 to TDC and then marking the position of the rotor on the distributor housing before taking it off. The problem is a) I didn't mark it and b) I swopped it from my old engine which may mean it wouldn't have been right for this engine anyway? So the question is when I have aligned my cylinder no.1 with TDC (by using the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the block) where should the rotor arm be pointing when I insert it back into the cylinder head? I have tried doing lots of searches but haven't found an answer for this question - can anyone help me with this? Chris

Hi No I wasnt in the RAF I used the run the Girl Guide Centre :) there for four years. Had a red 16V before then when we moved up to Norfolk I sold it and bought the VR6 from a guy in Heredforshire and blasted it around Norfolk! How was the car for you? Chris

Hi I used to own the car between 1999 and 2001. Really loved it but it cost me the earth to run - had to have the piston rings done! I lived in Coltishall in Norfolk at the time. Im now on my third Corrado (third time lucky?). Wonder if its still out there? chris

My water temp on the instruments was always high (110c) and I swopped the sender and the rad switch a couple of times with replacement GSF ones. In the end I bought VAG ones and hey presto the water temp is now dead on the line at 90 - so I would advise yout to use original senders as they are reliable (in my experience). I knew the old temp reading couldnt have been right as you could take the filler cap off the header tank and it didnt boil over so it couldnt have been near 100c.

Hi Sorry to jump in but my engine runs hot as well (oil typically 100c shortish journey but 116c @ 70-80). I had a remanufactured engine from Vege and am now wondering if the chains are correctly aligned. Other than taking the rocker cover off is there any way of telling?? :?

I bought a C as a non runner and put a VEGE engine in (£2K)a year ago which has run fine. I had it on a rolling road and without the air box it came up to 185 Bhp (how accurate are the Bhp readings on these??). When you read the VEGE warranty it explains that if the engine overheats its not covered by the warranty so you end up replacing all the things that could fail and cause a problem like the radiator, water pump, sensors, etc, etc. So far Ive spent about 4-5K but that does includes Magnex exhaust, suspension etc and I do want to keep the car a while - but its easy to do ....engine mounts could do with replacing whilst the engine is out - you get the idea. Apparently if you have a warranty claim VEGE can be very slow to do anything and I have heard of a few companies dropping them because of this. I found a couple of threads were stripped in the block when fitting ancillaries and paid for an engineer to fit helicoils which VEGE said they would pay for - I never got the money :( All in all though things are fine, the engine is good and doesn't burn oil, and it pulls well!!

Thanks for the replies and yes the profile is 45 - so looks good to go! Happy New Year :D

Thanks for that - is the rim width and offset ok though?

Hi I have seen some wheels on offer from a TT with the following measurements - rim width 7J, offset 31, stud diameter 100mm, tyre width 205, rim diameter 16 inches. Will they fit?