GazzaG60

not meant as come across. soz :? just wondering u c. my coilovers touch tyre side when lowered thats a 37 offset 7.5 so spacers r required n if someone else was running same then i would get it bob on first time. my mate has a rolling machine so may do the back arches. my front ones were always ok. maybe i run higher than u. our roads are pants

lee- are u using coilovers or not

lee- are you lowered at all. coilovers on back? any problems do you use spacers. if so what size or does the offset cover it

Lee- have you had any problems with the 215 17s. are your rims 7.5. toying with 215s instead of 205 stretched

offset would not necessarily be the same. in general wheels are sold in sets with the same offset. however it would be better to have 25 offset than to use 35 with a 10mm spacer in my opinion. most of us arn't lucky enough to have this option and need spacers for wide rears

admiral are best so far. their web price is at least 80 cheaper than next man

i have the same problem with the back with my 7.5x17s 37 offset. not the brakes but suspension leg. i cannot lower it at the back without spacers. Im told racland do good hubcentric ones and they do bolts for um too. cheap too. locking bolts. not too sure yet maybe tweeks

is that full comp. they want 1250 ish for me. im in a foul mood today with it. if i pay monthly itll be only bout 25 a month more than thitd party so may do that. was hoping to pay it all in one lump so as to get some nice new shiny wheels next month as my 17"s have been "borrowed" by my dad for his mx5. thats out the window now i reckon.

im gonna go back to um n see what i can get

im with HIC Iv tried Tesco 870 footman james 850 hic 900 elephant 1010 flux awaiting quote rac 1059 cheapest load excess all tpft i can get a scooby for bout 100 more full comp n get bits for one no probs as my mate owns a scooby company jap-innovations i can insure a S2 for scooby money or a 1.8 golf.

cheapest with them is 1059 with sabre. the charger must cost a lot more. cheers anyway. Anyone else got any ideas other than selling/moving

I once thought that my 1.8i sky was expensive to insure now?? I paid 800 with 1yr no claim, 880 with 2yr.. now its the third yr of insuring the car n they want 900. can get it for 870 elsewhere but f***** hell am i p*ssed. My car is a 92 G60 std at mo, doing 12k a year with 3 yrs doo dah not even any proper wheels on it at mo. Im getting annoyed with vw insurance. I looked for a S2. could get that for only 50 dearer than this! who knows about insurance. is it my postcode (OL2) or is it that the car isn't garaged or am i just getting dry butt f**ked. Damn am i not chuffed

get the paper version?

there are two handle types. one is about 50 the othewr a lot more. just depends on which u have

think you will struggle for any autocad/solid/proE assemblies mate. you could make dashes n that then

we got snow lots of it like most n i find that a quick spin in 1st n 2nd then into 3rd is ok for traction...sometimes...or 4th

In order to fit new top mounts you must remove the strut. First you need a allen key think its 8 and a swan neck spanner usually 17 or 19. crack the top nut in the recess under the bonnet-dont remove it.This is fixed at the bottom with 2 big bolts, these are not easy to get out if they are original. spray um up but still, ithink vw put sum stuff on the threads-cut um off n wind just a few theads n get new ones. If ur on std setup not coilovers youll need spring clamps-clamp the spring under a bit of tension as there is tension at std to do damage. now the strut should be hanging loose. remove the top nut n metal cap n u should be able to remove the strut. To remove the top mount you need a tool to remove the collar that holds the top mount on. or a screwdriver n hammer(its not easy) once the collar is off the top mount will lift off. It doesnt bolt thru the car like a mk1 does its clamped. remove mount fit new and new collar n rebuild. takes about 2 hours to do. 1hr with air tools. G60 mounts n VR ones are to be used. with a valve id go G60 as vr run differnt castor i think n handling isnt as sharp. not too sure on that one but my G60 ones are fine with the coilovers. Got mine from GCC. was waiting for bonraths n waiting n waiting... in the end i went for FEBI uprated G60 items. they're cheap cos the mk2 uses the same ones

that is tramlining. What happens is to the rest is the harder tyres transfer stress to other places, primarily suspension, topmounts, bushes, cv joints(due to angle change) Id replace my top mounts. they only cost bout 40 for a set. tightens up all vw greatly and eliminates some noise.

get a 100psi gauge. autometer, vdo etc do um. i bought a uber cheap one to start with was about 20 quid for the full thing, be careful with the brass t piece that screws into the filter housing. tis very weak and if you snap it you have to strip your spare car, scirocco for a cooler top then the old engine for a replacement for the sky!!! same with the capilery lead dont tighten it too much. looks like its not in proper but if its tight it aint coming out. pressure should be bout 50-80psi when cold and then should settle and rise practically with revs. it has to be at 2 bar(29psi ish) at 2100rpm to stop the buzzer coming on. pressure does hit 80psi so you then realise what that oil can do to the charger seals. incedently the oil pressure switch which is inline on the side of the head is to stop the light/buzzer at startup. it is to the charger and is a 0.4bar switch

ISV vents boost when i think 12 psi is hit?? is this figure right. I thin it then vents 0.2psi or something. Not sure if its just US cars that vent boost though. The other use is idle stabilization (or so it should do) in practice as the part gets worn the valve leaks a little. this is of course a boost leak and bad for idle. feeding back equals pressure as the leak goes back into the inlet.

both at same time would be a good idea. I want both i know that. I guess the more the better for cost and shipping as that used to be ridiculous with BB

basically no car needs a cat. the MOT test is for emissions not a cat. it just get v difficult to pass without a cat after 1st aug 92 First used before 1/8/1975 - Visual test only. Failure for excess idle speed, dense blue or black smoke for 5 seconds at idle or during acceleration up to 2500rpm or half engine max speed whichever lowest. First used between 1/8/75 and 31/7/86 - meter test CO First used between 1/8/86 and 31/7/92 - meter test CO First used between 1/8/92 and 31/7/94 - advanced emission test (CAT) if its running on petrol when presented, to the vehicle specific limits usually around CO try bobmckay.co.uk good site for mot stuff

I know of a few people who have had problems with raceland dampers. even though its an different shocker, ie one is adjustable i expect they use the same inserts in order to keep the price that low. that means that in theory they are just as prone to leak. Im not saying that supersports are better. its just what i have. i openly admit i have not tried racelands myself. My mate has had to replace 2 dampers on his mk3. I dont fancy taking off a shocker, sitting my car still fora few weeks or whatever while i wait for a test and replacement. the extra hundred quid is worth paying if you dont get this hassle. n the rides good too lets hope the supersports are up to it.

the other issue is control. a std car stereo is designed so as to be usable on the move at your fingertips. I thought about a creative jukebox but how do you fit one so that its secure and easily operable.

I have a Aiwa cdc-mp3 head unit. got it 2 yrs ago good. not as fast as our kids JVC though HDD mp3 players. I m a tad sceptical. A std hdd rotates at either 5400 or 7200rpm. It has to be at either vertical or horizontal positioning. The vibrations from racing or just driving on our roads will not do the drive any good. I know some car hdd mp3 players are available and may be designed for the purpose. std drives are not. I work in IT and have had a few DOAs due to transit knocks. Why does our comms room floor have to be solid antivibration-so it doesnt kill hdds. also small laptop style drives are quite expensive you need to plug to a pc to load data to them-which probly comes from cds buy a mp3 cd player. cds are bout 20p each. 10 albums..........