Mystic Rado

Did you reconnect the main loom plug to the back of the headlight properly? Sorry if that sounds obvious, but I managed to forget once and obviously it'll kill dip, main, the high beam spot and parking lights in one fell swoop. Make sure it's pushed right in so it's locked in position.

He made them himself from Audi headlights and it took a lot of work including a completely self-fabricated headlight housing. Look nice though.

The G-Force Profilers and Profiler Gs are different tyres I think, but the similarity in name makes it easy to get them mixed up. I think the G-Force ones have only been around for a year or so. They also have completely different G-Force tyres in the States.

I have a set of the G-Force Profilers fitted - different to the old Profilers btw - but have only limited comparison, so it's hard for me to say how they compare to other Corrado rubber, plus they've not been on for long. So far seem pretty sure-footed compared to the Dunlop SP900 things that were fitted to the three of the four wheels when I bought it, and haven't done owt weird or unpredictable on mainly damp roads. They don't feel as grippy as the Eagle F1s I have on my Mark 2, but then that's a different car, plus I'm still experimenting with pressures. For now I'd say that they feel like a reliable tyre wet or dry, seem decent for road noise and ride comfort and good value off mytyres. BF Goodrich are Michelin's 'not quite as premium' brand in a Seat viz a viz VW kind of way, I guess. I just use F1s on the GiT and would have done the same on the 'rado if they were available in a VR6 fitment.

I'll be interested to see if you manage to smooth out the glass - good luck :-)

Thanks very much, that's very helpful, sounds like those Bosch Projectors are too big then, I'll look into the Fiat / Alfa options. I think the Bosch ones might just squeeze in but it depends on clearances, hard to say without having one here. Lots of light? Yeah, twisty northern moorland roads, crap conditions, no streetlighting. I used to run a Mk 2 GTi with uprated loom and 90/100 rally bulbs plus two 100-watt spots and that was about right. I might yet go that way with the 'rado. Right now I'm running a Bixenon HID kit in standard reflectors and while it's not as bad as people say - it's one of the better ones with a cap over the front of the bulb and the arcs in the bulb placed to exactly simulate a halogen filament's placement in the headlight, which is normally where things go wrong - it's not as good as the uprated bulbs in my Golf though, which is disappointing. I've just got the light adjustment properly adjusted - was running very conservative angles to avoid dazzling people - so that might sort it out. As far as the eBay looms go, I think they're pretty variable. I bought one a couple of months ago and fitting it would have meant cutting into the standard wiring (you want to solder and heatshrink any joins) plus the connectors were all crimped rather than soldered and not sealed, ditto the connectors onto the fuse holders and relays, so I've put it to one side and I'm going to make my own with the stock connectors so it's plug and play. Oh, and there was just one relay for high and one for low beam, both sides, so if the relay fails, you'd lose both sides, which ain't great. Can tell you from running uprated looms in the Golf that anything that's exposed and metal and particularly crimped, will die. You ideally want to solder and heatshrink connections and either use waterproof fuse holders or do your best to house both the fuses and relays in some sort of waterproof bag - an old Gore-Tex sock is good :-) if you happen to have one lying around... On the Golf I also carefully used some of that plastic-coating ignition spray on the relay / fuse connections to try and reduce the chances of corrosion. I've got a pair of the OE headlight plugs, so I'm aiming to put together a pretty much plug and play loom initially plugged into of the original headlight plugs, but then soldered in once I'm happy with it. The eBay ones I've seen will work fine initially, but they don't seem very corrosion resistant and they're not a patch on the professionally made one I had on the Golf. Thats's my take on it anyway. I'm no electrical expert, but you really do need to weatherproof the thing as well as you can or it'll die somewhere down the line in my experience.

OK, cheers for that fella, can I ask you a few more questions. 1. Are the projectors grafted into the stock reflector so that it moves with the headlamp adjustment? Flush with the front line of the reflectors or offset like the standard beam? 2. How much clearance did you allow at the front of the projector between that and the stock lens, I guess there's an effective limit for adjustment's sake and maybe aesthetics? 3. Are you using bixenon or just low beam HIDs? I'm thinking use low beam then wire them so the HIDs stay on with main beam plus twin 100-watt halogens. 4. Which projectors did you use? I was looking at these from HID Planet in the US. I already have some ballasts etc. They're quoted at a mximum depth of 5" which looks okay? http://www.hidplanet.com/bosch.html Ta for any erm, light you can throw on this...

look good, mean in the rear view mirror :twisted: (abit JBOB looking) Have you modded the stock lights to take a projector light yet then? What are you doing about the headlight glass btw - as standard it's ridged and patterned to create the low beam pattern. Ideally you'd want to remove the patterning completely on that side of the lens so it's clear. It'd be a bastard to grind off, which leaves you the option of fitting a clear lexan / polycarbonate or similar replacement which you'd have to fabricate yourself. Is the stock headlamp housing deep enough to take a projector without modification? Just wondering as it's something I've thought about doing, but the more I look into it, the more complicated and involved it looks. The easy solution would be InPros, but l don't really like the look either and as I understand it, they only fit flush on early spec Cs. Be interested to see how it works :-)